Fuel drip

I have a 2001 WR426. I have had it for about 2 months. I noticed on my last ride that the hose that connects to the bottom of the carb is leaking fuel. Pretty steady drip. It has not had this problem before. Nothing has changed on the bike other then the oil. Any idea's for the cause? it has been a little more difficult to start lately as well. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

:thumbsup:

You have a leaking needle valve in the carby. It is hard to start because it is flooding. You can turn the fuel cock to the off position when your not riding and this will stop it from leaking. But you may be getting fuel leaking into the engine while it is not running. This is not good as it will cause engine oil dilution. Be safe and replace the needle valve.

Have fun.

I will check into getting that fixed. Is it a pretty simple fix, or would a shop need to do it?

It is simple to do. It may be as simple as having a bit of dirt stuck between the needle and seat. In which case it will get away with a clean. But when you get the needle valve out, inspect the sealing area on the pointy end of the needle. If you can see a ring marked where it seals it's just easy and cheap to replace.

Remove the float chamber from the bottom of your carby (nothing will fall out). You will then see the float that moves up and down, this is held in place by a pin that simply slides in and out. When you slide the pin out hold the float as it will fall out. The needle valve will be attached to the float.

Check the manual if you have one and look at pictures if not here is a link with a parts list on micrfiche http://www.onlinemicrofiche.com/

No Worries.

On the microfiche, which part number is it? Is it the $136 needle, #11?

I have no idea which part number it is. HELP

I have had this problem it is not that serious unless it is a big leak. It seems to happen more after storage. Take it for a good ride and Ill bet that needle seals fine. You need to be more careful about turning off the petcock. this will prevent the rich and fuel leaking into the engine conditions if you replace the needle and seat it will clear up for a while but return ( replacing the needle and seat is never a bad idea) also check the float level very carefully. One thing that works well for me is to open the float bowl drain screw after riding the bike and before storing it. this will drop the needle off the seat and keeps the carb clean for the next time. :thumbsup:

Before you go spend big $ on an overpriced needle and seat!

Check it for dirt, and if the needle is not worn.

ALSO, check the o' ring that seals the seat to the carb body, it is prone to cracking and getting hard causing a leak. You might only need to replace the o ring for a few dollors.

Before you even take it apart you can try to flush the needle. Just put something to catch the gas under the fuel bowl drain hose, open the drain, turn your fuel on and let it run for 30 sec to a min. Then close the drain and see if it's still happening.

Before you even take it apart you can try to flush the needle. Just put something to catch the gas under the fuel bowl drain hose, open the drain, turn your fuel on and let it run for 30 sec to a min. Then close the drain and see if it's still happening.

Do this first ansd if it still leaks pull the bowl off and have a look.

From the microfiche the WR426 needle comes in a set with a removable seat. It is the reference # 25 and is priced at $42.03. This is the automatic valve that turns off the fuel in the carby when it is full. If it leaks it is normally a bit of dirt between the needle and seat that stops it from sealing. The needle valve can, in some carbies, be adjusted to place more sealing pressure on the needle and seat and a little less fuel in the bowl. This may also stop the leak. But if the groove in the needle is bad enough and it still leaks sometimes you may have to replace it.

:thumbsup: Thanks for all the input, i'll be tearing it down this weekend while watching the Seahawks spank the Steelers. I'm a K.C fan, so the Steelers MUST go down for not losing in Detroit their last game, which would have put K.C in the playoffs! :bonk:

Along The Same Lines, When Your Done Riding Turn Off The Fuel Petcock While The Engine Is Still Running . This Is Common Practice Here In California And Was Recommended By Mechanics And Friends Due To The Poor Fuel Quality In This Area If Your Bike's Going To Sit More Than A Few Days. Once It Dies Your Motor And Carb Are Safe From The Fuel.

:thumbsup: Thanks for all the input, i'll be tearing it down this weekend while watching the Seahawks spank the Steelers. I'm a K.C fan, so the Steelers MUST go down for not losing in Detroit their last game, which would have put K.C in the playoffs! :thumbsup:

You might want to get your work done before the game, salt water is bad for your carb, crying over it on game day could mess things up. I am neither a Steeler fan nor a Seahawks fan, but the smart money is on the Steelers pass rush smothering the 'Hawks big time, I can't see anything stopping them.

Just picked up the parts. Should have it torn apart before kick off. Hopefully this fixes the issue. Should i just replace all the parts that came with the needle valve kit just to be on the safe side?

Any tips on the tear down? First carb job. :thumbsup:

Just picked up the parts. Should have it torn apart before kick off. Hopefully this fixes the issue. Should i just replace all the parts that came with the needle valve kit just to be on the safe side?

Any tips on the tear down? First carb job. :thumbsup:

I would go ahead and put all the parts in, why have to tear it down twice.

Advice, make sure your Philip's screw drivers are in good shape and that you apply pressure when removing the screws. Yamaha uses some pretty soft screws and they strip REAL easily :thumbsup:

My 02 426 had allen heads. I went to home depot and bought allen heads to replace the butter soft Philips on my '04 450. The screws strip faster then a $3 .... : )

:bonk: So i replaced the parts included in the needle valve kit. After inspection of the valve, i could see no wear marks. I replaced the entire kit anyways, since i had it apart. After putting it all back together, starting for a few minutes, the carb is still leaking. I tapped the side of the card with a rubber malet, to see if the float was sticking, and guess what, no more leak. I did this about 3 more times, same result. So looks like the float is sticking. Any ide'as why? :thumbsup: I am going to go buy a new float tomorrow, replace it, and see if this helps. :thumbsup:

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