New CVK40 convert

[jorgen_blok1]

I am certain about it that it does better then the stock muffler because this Is a nearly open pipe.

[jorgen_blok1]

Useable power is better than big HP at peak RPM.

REMEMBER THIS PEOPLE.

Haha not everybody races at a track.

[jorgen_blok1]

It appears to be the yoshimura titanium pipe

[38super]

j-b1

 

Yosh Ti is a good pipe,  there is a trick using auto heater hose and large hose clamp to protect the muffler.  Wrap the hose around the pipe, cut the hose leaving enough room to tighten the clamp.  Insert and tighten the hose clamp. 

 

There may be a quiet core for that pipe if need be.

[jorgen_blok1]

I have a different muffler but I will remember this.

Ps this is the system and the hgs exhaust

[jorgen_blok1]

Oke so it took some works but it fits. I was a bit worried because I never welded titanium. So I went for another way to make it fit instead of welding.

Anyhow the bike runs great in my opinion. Definitely increased the mid range and gave me a bunch of top end power.

The only thing is that I'm still on a 150 main jet. Will this be alright or do I need a bigger one.

I had the feeling it was a bit rich with the stock exhaust and e header.

[jorgen_blok1]

This is the result

[38super]

j_b1

 

You are now fine tuning, try 2pts leaner MJ.  Repeak your idle mixture.  Weather and fuel quality will become mildly apparent too.

[subeng]

[subeng]

&%$#@! did this thing do to my previous reply?  I was going to say its a titanium yosh but not the TRC, its not large enough diameter and the TRC only has a joint after the head pipe turns to the rear and the joint at the muffler.

What other series of yosh's offer a titanium headpipe for the DRZ?

Edited August 1, 2015 by subeng

[jorgen_blok1]

They also have the TRS and the new yoshimura titanium.

As far as I know is that one of these to is the one I have

[jorgen_blok1]

&%$#@! did this thing do to my previous reply? I was going to say its a titanium yosh but not the TRC, its not large enough diameter and the TRC only has a joint after the head pipe turns to the rear and the joint at the muffler.

What other series of yosh's offer a titanium headpipe for the DRZ?

It's the titanium yoshimura header from the tricone pipe

Also not as high RPM made as the TRC of trs

[Anthon Berg]

Carb's running real nice! Fun factor about 3x higher!

 

Or was ...

 

- now I've got fuel coming out of the overflow and bike won't start :/ ... float assembly not doing its job.

 

Happened right after I hit reserve for the first time with the new carb, which is also the first time I've run the bike in a while! So probably gunk from the bottom of the tank :/ ... or some rubber from a new fuel line I got (stock one was too short)? there seemed to be a piece like that in the bowl?

 

Bike died just as I pulled over at a gas station pump ? Filled up and didn't want to go again. Walked home and got my tools - weather was sunny and nice! - opened the carb bowl at the gas station. Was fun, in a way! cleaned it out but didn't fix the issue - going to have to pull the carb!

 

So probably junk in the bowl. Or what? - is gunk/junk in the bowl a red herring? The thing's off a '96 bike. There has to be some kind of seal in the float assembly? or? - which would probably be pretty tired by now!

 

any hints most welcome ? many thanks! not least for giving me a place to whine and vent ?

[jorgen_blok1]

I had the same. Tap the carburetor where the bowl needle seals the deal. If that doesn't work open her up and look if it seals

[38super]

If the carb is clean, fuel flow from the petcock, then it's proly the float needle.  Seems to be a common issue, either it sticks closed or full open.

Edited August 5, 2015 by 38super

[jorgen_blok1]

since i installed the yoshimura pipe, my bike likes to stall when i drive away from traffic lights.

my guess is that it is now to lean. and i should adjust the fuel mixture screw.(screw it more out?)

 

let me know what you guys think

[BMWombat]

I have an yosh exhaust and 150 MJ in my CVK. I added E model cams and at first I thought I would need to change MJ based on it bogging. A bit of fiddling with the fuel screw did the trick.

 

Adjustments to the fuel screw are easy so you might as well try it first.

[jorgen_blok1]

Yeah I also think that the 150 mainjet is correct because the bike rips now and almost never bogs.

Only when I try to drive away it wants to stall.

So I Will give it a tweak and see what happens.

Do those e cams add a lot of power without decreasing lots of low end torque

[BMWombat]

Not as much as the carb added but still noticeable.

 

Combined with the carb and exhaust they rounded things off.

 

I didn't notice any decrease in torque but definitely noticed more on top.

[38super]

jorgen

 

E or HC Stage 1 cams will add more usable power to mid and upper rpm, the trade off is a tad less bottom end torque.  You can compensate by adding a tooth or two to the wheel sprocket.

 

Invest in a shim kit if changing cams, better to have parts on hand than wait for the post to arrive.