North America spec XR650r to UK spec

Hi, I am new to this site and was hoping for some advice.

I live in UK and recently bought an imported North America spec Xr650r and want to make it road legal for UK, ie brake lights,indicators, hi/lo beam, speedo, handlebar switchgear etc. Wanted to avoid buying the expensive dual sport kits so thought it would be straight forward to buy a UK spec wiring loom which has all the necessary terminators for these electrics and swap out the US one. Thought my only problem would be the lower powered stator might mean lights being v dim, but have read the postings on rewinding the stator to increase output so thought that was something I could sort. However, on inspection I think there is more to it than I first thought – the US Spec stator only seems to have to outputs, the ignition coil and the lights. Does anyone know what UK spec stator outputs – basically the connection from the loom to the stator is different. Also there is an AC regulator under the sesat of my bike but the UK one has a regulator and a rectifier under seast and one forks according to the UK manual, again the connector from the loom to the reguulator seems different. Has anyone else tried to do this, I so any advice greatly appreciated or am going about this the wrong way by trying to shoe-horn in a UK loom into a US spec bike. Sorry for all the questions but I’m desperate to get out and enjoy the bike on the road without the fear of being wiped out by a lorry when trying to make a turn across the carriageway without any brakelights/indicators!!

I'm pretty sure the UK bikes have a dual lighting coil. One coil powers the reg/rectifier and thus supplies DC power to the turn/tail/brake lights. The other coil goes through a separate regulator and supplies AC power to the headlight. The US bike has only a single lighting coil and regulator for sure.

You can buy the Typanium type regulator/rectifiers, which is what Baja Designs and most other dual sport kits use. This will replace the stock regulator and supply DC voltage. You can wire your headlight and taillight in between the stator output and the regulator (two yellow wires usually). Wire in a switch if you want to turn off or actuate HI/LO beams on the headlight.

On the rectifier side, (black and red wires) you will wire in your brake light/turn signals/horn etc... Stick a smaller NiCad 12V battery pack in so that your brake/turn/horn will work off the battery if you desire. Or you can wire your headlight/taillight on the DC side too, your choice.

With the stock US bike stator, you can do all this, but you will only be able to run a 35W headlight. If you want a 55/60W headlight you will have to do a rewind. My point is, that you don't need to run a dual coil setup, there is really no point in it. A single coil can do it all with one less regulator and less wiring.

Stripping the stock lighting coil off (4 poles worth of 22awg wire) and rewinding all available 10 poles with 18awg magnet wire (32 turns per pole, 320 total turns +/-) will give you PLENTY of power to power all the above but with a 55/60W bulb and probably even an ~80W bulb or dual 35W bulbs (75W) and still charge the battery.

Thanks for the reply, v helpful. I take it from what you said, all this can be done with the original (US spec) wiring loom, ie no need for the UK one I bought? So am I right in thinking all i need to do is replace the stock regulator with the typanium one - do you know how much/where I can get one cheap, and put in an optional battery pack and if I need more power I get the stator rewound? Cheers

Yes, it's all doable with the stock US wiring harness. However, it may be as easy, and much cleaner to figure out how you want it wired and wire everything yourself. has the "150 Watt Full Wave Regulator/Rectifier" for 19.00 pounds is it? Notice in the picture they show two yellow wires (stator hookup side) and the black/red wires (DC output side). Anything connected between the stator and the yellow wires on the regulator will get regulated AC voltage. Anything connected after the black/red wires will get regulated DC voltage (though not clean DC). This is where the battery or capacitor come in, they filter and smooth the DC out, making it safe for GPS's and stuff.

They have a sealed lead acid battery also which could be used, though it's not like the NiCad battery pack that I use from, no matter though whatever you can fit under your seat basically. I'm sure you can find all this stuff in your area, it's just knowing what to look for.

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