Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Shock oil change

Recommended Posts

Just got done changing oil in shock, now I called the dealer to get it recharged and they asked if I'm shore it is bleed out, is there way to confirm it is bleed out. I followed the manuals procedure to stroke the shaft but that didn't do sh1t. So I pured it in as I stroked shaft and keeped fillin it and then turned and filled bladder area. Put cap back on had oil push out as I did. Stroked shaft fully ass. and it feels good.

How much pressure?

(stock spring 195lbs trail rider)

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

You can never be sure. Takes time and experience. Your procedure sounds right assuming the blatter area is not overfilled. My suspension guy says let it sit 12 hr in the upright position, tap the body with a plastic hammer. If not more bubbles, good to go. Install the compression vavles and re-charge. Charge to standard pressure: 128 psi.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, extended with valve out. You want as much oil in the shock as possible.

When you pressurize, that holds the desolved gas in the fluid so it does not get fizzy. When the shock strokes, the volume of the piston rod is absorbed by deflection of the blatter. The blatter prevents gas/shock fluid to mix.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By Bignerd0100100
      Hey all, 
      I'm looking at buying a 2004 Suzuki DRZ400EK or at least I think it's an EK according to Vin lookup websites, but it does not appear to have a kickstarter. I was told the bike was owned by a motorcycle dealer and that it has a current green sticker, and a California license plate but has not been registered for the streets since 2011. I want this as a dual sport but am not clear if the fact that it already has a plate means I am good to register it or if maybe they took away the ability to register it after it was plated, California loves to do that kind of stuff. Since the bike was owned by a dealer I would think they were up on the latest regulations in California, but who knows. Can anyone add any insight as to what I should look for on the bike itself like the carburetor, model numbers etc? Or do I just try my luck at the DMV?
    • By smokey9lives
      I have a 2003 DRZ (actually a KLX400) and the head tube bearings are shot.  I ordered a new set to install but I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations on other parts I should replace while I have the front disassembled.  I was thinking about new rubber fork protectors, but are there other things that wear out on the DRZ front ends that you can only get to when disassambled?
      I also broke off a replacement key that I got for the steering lock.  I must have been made of cheap pot-metal.  Should I just remove the whole lock mechanism?
      Any tips or tricks for getting the old bearings out and the new ones in would be welcome!
    • By antonyp
      Hey Guys,
      I recently bought a 2003 DRZ400S and thought it would be a good idea to check the valves clearance etc . I timed the engine on TDC with the magneto mark aligned as per the manual but I find the cam timing slightly odd. The arrows pointing upward are on the 1st and 15th pin as they should but with the magneto timing mark aligned they are not perfectly straight. Same goes for the arrows that should be parallel to the cylinder head casing. Is this normal or should they be absolutely perfect ?