16t and 17t sprockets?

I need to know where to buy 16-17t CS sprockets for the 'tard

biggest i could get from tucker rocky was 15

i dont even think sprocket specialties has 16 or 17

my next question is will a 17 even fit-do you just ahve to take the chain/case guard off? thanks

I need to know where to buy 16-17t CS sprockets for the 'tard

biggest i could get from tucker rocky was 15

i dont even think sprocket specialties has 16 or 17

my next question is will a 17 even fit-do you just ahve to take the chain/case guard off? thanks

I was going to say, I don't know if you would have room for a 16 t without chain rub. I run a 15 t on mine with a 45 t rear. Good top end speed. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

what gearing would i need to hit 120? This is a supermot btw with a FMF tit. full exhaust- K&N-quicksilver carb-stage 2 hotcam -i need speed -looks like i'll have to shorten the chain

Pretty sure Sprocket Specialists makes a 16.

Sprocket Specialists DOES have a 16T, but no 17T. The 16T part # is 617-16.

http://www.sprocketspecialists.com/SearchResults.aspx?txtSearch=617

I'm running it on my 650R with a 44 rear (~15/41), gearing puts you at about 115mph with a 150/60-17. This gearing will just work with the stock 110 link chain, but the axle will be WAY back. With a 108 link chain, you can go 16/42 (~15/39) with the axle adjusted forward in the swingarm and get better steering. I wouldn't think you would want to go much taller than this with the stock motor.

You will need a custom case saver as nobody makes one for the 650R that I've seen. I traced my Xr's Only 15T case saver (with the 3rd mounting point) onto a scrap piece of 1/4" aluminum. Sawed it out with a scroll saw, then I belt sanded it to fit. Slick as sh*t and with the 3rd mount it makes it the strongest case saver around.

Here are some pics;

my homemade one is on the left;

http://members.cox.net/snaggletto/case-savers

here is my 16T sprocket and case saver temporarily installed with only one bolt, with the XR's Only 15T beside. I didn't have the 3rd mount installed yet, but I do now;

http://members.cox.net/snaggletto/case-savers-2

what gearing would i need to hit 120?

I had my stock geared 650R up to just under 110 on GPS.

Supplicate,

With stock 14/48 gearing on your 650R, your engine RPM would be 8800 RPM.

At 8200 RPM, that is 102mph.

Were you hitting the rev limiter?

Were you hitting the rev limiter?

yeah.

I like popping that one in there because I don't know exactly when/where it happened during the ride. :thumbsup:

We had been doing WFO for close to an hour on some really hard pack dirt and when stopped I looked at the GPS, it said "Maximum Speed: 109.9mph" :thumbsup:

It probably was on a downhill stretch with a bit of coasting, but I had been bouncing it off the rev limiter a couple times during the ride.

also, if you know what final drive ratio you need to hit 120mph, you can look at the Ironman Sprocket Page where they have a chart that specifies all the ratio combos between the different sprocket sizes. Just scroll to the bottom of the page.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By Jeremy Evans
      I just bought a 2012 xr650l and it starts and runs great until about 4000 rpm give or take (I’m guessing) it feels like it spits and pukes. Also when releasing the throttle the exhaust pops and hiccups. I am calling the dealership to ask if they are willing to fix the problem as I just purchased from them yesterday but I am curious as to what the problem could be in case they do not offer to help for my “as is” purchase. I have read a couple other topics on here that talk about the vacuum lines being hooked up to an air cut diaphram but I don’t know what that is. The smog delete has been done on this bike as well as a slip on dg exhaust and the side cover has a bunch of holes drilled in it exposing the air filter. The battery has also been relocated. My question is what jetting should I have at 2000 feet? I am planning on opening up the carb to see what the idle jet and main jet are and if they were even changed from stock. Also if someone knows about the air cut being hooked up to vacuum and can supply pictures that would be very helpful. I know that the smog block off kits just plug the vacuum holes and the air cut usually gets disconnected. Thanks. 

    • By Chowell
      Cargo rack for Honda XR650l.
      New condition. No scratches or damage. New $199 
      See manufacturers website for detail.
      https://cycleracks.com/ProductDetail/tabid/87/ProductID/1/Default.aspx
    • By Pcolamotorhead
      engine parts and misc. parts. Airbox, Electronics, Brake parts.
    • By Pcolamotorhead
      Parting out almost an entire bike. Frame is gone, CDI box, and Wheels, Gas Tank, Headlight & Front number plate. Complete unassembled engine with 9611 miles on it. 90 pounds of compression at cranking speed. According to hondaprokevin.com this is what it should have.  Checked the compression with 3 different gauges.   Valve clearance is good which indicates no cam or rocker arm wear. Oil did not look too bad that came out of it. Corbin seat, Big tube header pipe with Super trap muffler, and just about all the other parts.  Shoot me a message with what you are looking for and I will be happy to take pics and send them to you along with a price. All items are buyer pays the shipping.  Also have some 1996 Honda XR600R parts. Engine cases, Electronics, Etc.  $850 for the motor and you pay shipping, Starter motor not included.