Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Team Green Suspension Recommendations!

Recommended Posts

The suspension set-ups are broke down by weight:

130-150lbs

FORKS:

Fork Position: 5MM (all weights)

Spring Rate: 4.5N/mm

Oil Volume: Stock

Oil Weight: 5w

Rebound: 12 out

Comp: 6-12 out

REAR SHOCK:

Spring Rate: 50N/mm

Sag Level: 102-105mm

Rebound: 8-9

Comp Low: 6-8

Comp High: 1-1.25

Nitro Pressure: 150 psi

150-170lbs

FORKS:

Fork Position: 5MM (all weights)

Spring Rate: 4.6N/mm

Oil Volume: Stock

Oil Weight: 5w

Rebound: 10 out

Comp: 6-12 out

REAR SHOCK:

Spring Rate: 52N/mm

Sag Level: 102-105mm

Rebound: 8-9

Comp Low: 6-8

Comp High: 1-1.25

Nitro Pressure: 150 psi

170-190lbs

FORKS:

Fork Position: 5MM (all weights)

Spring Rate: 4.7N/mm

Oil Volume: Stock

Oil Weight: 5w

Rebound: 8 out

Comp: 6-12 out

REAR SHOCK:

Spring Rate: 54N/mm

Sag Level: 102-105mm

Rebound: 7-8

Comp Low: 6-8

Comp High: 1-1.25

Nitro Pressure: 150 psi

:thumbsup:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They wouldn't by chance had the 190-210 settings running around would then? Otherwise, It looks like I better loose about 15-20 lbs to make it within their specs! :thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, I was thinking about that when I was typing that up. It looks like they are following a pattern to a certain degree. For every 20lbs or so, they change the set-up by 1 heavier spring rate and/or 1-2 clicks in on the clickers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
They wouldn't by chance had the 190-210 settings running around would then? Otherwise, It looks like I better loose about 15-20 lbs to make it within their specs! :thumbsup:

They're going up 2N/mm on each end for every 20 lbs (or about 9 kgs).

The fork spring rate is only increasing by 1N/mm but since there are 2 springs, the overall spring force is increase by 2N/mm.

The compression ranges remain the same (since there were no valving changes) and the rebound is stiffened by 2 clicks to offset the increased return energy of the stiffer spring.

Using this methodology you can predict their recommendations for a given weight range.

:thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
They wouldn't by chance had the 190-210 settings running around would then? Otherwise, It looks like I better loose about 15-20 lbs to make it within their specs! :thumbsup:

Run the 56 spring. I'm above 200lb., and just rode with it at an outdoor / rough track. Worked better for me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Run the 56 spring. I'm above 200lb., and just rode with it at an outdoor / rough track. Worked better for me.

Well, I'm actually hoping to drop another 15 lbs or so... I'll give myself a bit to drop and if I don't drop off like I want, then I'll break down and get a new spring. If I get the spring then its just one less reason for me to keep working at loosing some weight. :thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is the high speed adjuster set from all the way in? in other words is it set 1 turn out or 1 turn in?

The suspension set-ups are broke down by weight:

130-150lbs

FORKS:

Fork Position: 5MM (all weights)

Spring Rate: 4.5N/mm

Oil Volume: Stock

Oil Weight: 5w

Rebound: 12 out

Comp: 6-12 out

REAR SHOCK:

Spring Rate: 50N/mm

Sag Level: 102-105mm

Rebound: 8-9

Comp Low: 6-8

Comp High: 1-1.25

Nitro Pressure: 150 psi

150-170lbs

FORKS:

Fork Position: 5MM (all weights)

Spring Rate: 4.6N/mm

Oil Volume: Stock

Oil Weight: 5w

Rebound: 10 out

Comp: 6-12 out

REAR SHOCK:

Spring Rate: 52N/mm

Sag Level: 102-105mm

Rebound: 8-9

Comp Low: 6-8

Comp High: 1-1.25

Nitro Pressure: 150 psi

170-190lbs

FORKS:

Fork Position: 5MM (all weights)

Spring Rate: 4.7N/mm

Oil Volume: Stock

Oil Weight: 5w

Rebound: 8 out

Comp: 6-12 out

REAR SHOCK:

Spring Rate: 54N/mm

Sag Level: 102-105mm

Rebound: 7-8

Comp Low: 6-8

Comp High: 1-1.25

Nitro Pressure: 150 psi

:thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All settings are listed in the out (counter clock wise) position from a fully seated (clock wise) position. When turning your settings in to the fully seated position for a starting point, don't force any of the adjustment screws past their seated positions, damage may occur. Use finesse......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Would you believe al these things need are stiffer springs ans a screw-driver?

Told ya!

Great stuff, ain't it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay, just set the sag on the fo-fiddy. It is at 102mm and static is at 25mm. I'm in the 170+ bracket and what the "F" is the 8 out and 8-12 out mean and the settings on the rear 6 and 8???? :thumbsup::thumbsup: I know that after the third ride I turned the front clickers 2 turns on the firmer side and it is alot better. The back is untouched and the tire does'nt rub the fender on the biggest jumps. :bonk:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The "out" you are reffering to is 8 clicks out from all the way in. If you turn your clicker clockwise till it is all the way in (i.e. : no more clicking noises), then back it out 8 clicks. The same goes for the "8-12", that is simply a range for the rider to adjust to their own personal taste. :thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The thing that upsets me is that the spring set up from the factory is unbalanced. According to these Team Green spring settings, the bike comes set up for NO ONE. :thumbsup:

Poor R&D from the boys in green. :thumbsup:

Keating

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The thing that upsets me is that the spring set up from the factory is unbalanced. According to these Team Green spring settings, the bike comes set up for NO ONE. :thumbsup:

Poor R&D from the boys in green. :thumbsup:

Keating

Get over it.

Same problem for most scoots...these set-ups for "Joe Average" are always WAAAAAAY different than what their testers/racers run.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Get over it.

Same problem for most scoots...these set-ups for "Joe Average" are always WAAAAAAY different than what their testers/racers run.

Well then, for an "Average Joe" such as myself, should I even care too much about what these recommended Team Green settings are? I'm not good enough to even come close to pushing the stock bike to its limits so is it worth getting too carried away with spring rates at this time? Granted, keeping in mind my 205lbs gearless weight.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Well then, for an "Average Joe" such as myself, should I even care too much about what these recommended Team Green settings are? I'm not good enough to even come close to pushing the stock bike to its limits so is it worth getting too carried away with spring rates at this time? Granted, keeping in mind my 205lbs gearless weight.

We need to remember, these are only recommendations! Nothing in stone here. For people that are pretty clueless about suspension this is just a suggestion to were you should go, that has worked for Team Green through hours and hours of testing.

To answer your question...Yes you should worry about spring rates, if your not in the ball park your bike will not work (suspension wise) at the best it can in stock valving form.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Well then, for an "Average Joe" such as myself, should I even care too much about what these recommended Team Green settings are? I'm not good enough to even come close to pushing the stock bike to its limits so is it worth getting too carried away with spring rates at this time? Granted, keeping in mind my 205lbs gearless weight.

If you're 200# and a True Novice/Not pushin' the bike very hard, well, guess what!?!?!?!?

You need to set the sag as close as possible (I'd try to get it to around 98mm) and run the "Light-Weight" recm'd settings on your shock...paying Careful ATTENTION that you have ENUFF 'Rebound' dialed in.

On your forks: Because yer a lil' heavier than Joe Average, you might try a lil' X-Tra oil for some "Poor-mans" bottoming resistance. Again, get the Screw-Driver out and start Clickin'. You'll proll'y run Compression on par with the "Middle" recm'd settings.

Good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×