Advise needed for QS install on XR650R

Hi guys,

I'm looking for advise and tips on installing a Edlebrock QS on my 2003 BRP. Also looking for trouble shooting and starting tips. When I install it I wont have access to the INTERNET, so I'm asking early. I couldn't find any good old posts on TT.


Hi guys,

I'm looking for advise and tips on installing a Edlebrock QS on my 2003 BRP. Also looking for trouble shooting and starting tips. When I install it I wont have access to the INTERNET, so I'm asking early. I couldn't find any good old posts on TT.


It comes with installation instructions and a book that tells you how to fine tune it. If you have access to a phone you can call customer support. They will work with you. The only starting tip you need to know is that you no longer have to worry about accidentally twisting the throttle and flooding the bike. In fact you should twist the throttle several times before kicking it over. Sometimes you have to turn the idle up to start it. Which is easy to do cause the idle adjustment is attached to a long cable which means you can adjust the idle up or down while sitting on the bike in the middle of a ride.

Installation should be simple & straightforward. Call Customer Service if needed...

Go ahead and install a bolt-on hose guide approx 3/8" diam (rubber-coated metal - "P" shaped with single bolt hole) to secure the idle adjust cable to the coolant intake housing on LS (the hose from the thermostat to the cylinder) Use the top bolt. Otherwise, the cable will move around excessively.

Another good idea is to smooth the sharp corner on the front right-hand side. It has a tendency to gouge into the gas tank. There is enough excess material to safely remove 1/8" or more.

As others have said it is an easy install with the instructions provided. The carb is very easy to tune also.

Edelbrock Install Tips

1) Don't take it apart to see what's inside before installing it like some people have done. There's a check valve in a drilled hole inside the bowl and a small ball bearing inside the pump assembly. If either of these items fall out, then your accelerator pump will not work correctly.

2) Install it just as you receive it. The bike should fire up if you install the carb as you received it from the factory. Once it fires up, then start playing with it.

3) Make sure you turn the idle up high enough the first time you try to start the bike. If the idle is turned down so low that the throttle slide is completely closed, then you'll be kicking until you're out of breath. It's better to have the idle set a little to high the first time you try to start the bike and then you can turn it down to where it should be.

4) Before you try to start the bike for the very first time on a cold engine, make sure you fully twist the throttle 3 to 4 times 'QUICKLY'. This will cause the accelerator pump to squirt fuel into the venturi and allow you to get the bike started with just a kick or two. If you twist the throttle slowly, the fuel from the accelerator pump will return the fuel bowl and your bike will be difficult to start when cold.

This should be a super easy install in that you're simply removing your old carb + throttle cables + throttle and installing the Edelkbrock parts in their place. If your bike doesn't fire within a half dozen kicks after you've installed the Edelbrock, then something isn't right. It should fire within 2 kicks and it probably will, but don't panick if it doesn't because it's probably something very simple. The guys at Edelbrock (or Barnums if you bought through them) are just a phone call away and they'll get you going. Enjoy the carb :thumbsup:

Thanks a lot everyone!!!! :thumbsup:

The only real obstackle I had installing my QS was getting the carb inlet and outlet flanges to slip into the airbox flange and engine intake flange. Took some monkeying but it finally went in.

Here's a collection of starting tips for various conditions, I got from "qadsan" when I first got my QS:

1. Engine cold, not started in at least 3-4 weeks.

a - turn on fuel

b - 3 quick full blips of the throttle

c - bring kick start lever to tdc

d - pull in the decomp and push the kick start lever just slightly pat TDC and let the decomp lever back out

e - kick the start lever from the top of the stroke - hard smooth kick

f - varoom! Your bike should start within a couple kicks. If it doesn't, then something is wrong (maybe in the carb settings, or valve adjustment, stale fuel, fouled spark plug, etc.)

2. Engine cold, not started in 24-48 hours

a - same as above

3. Engine warm, has been shut down for maybe an hour or two

a - same as above, but only use one quick blip of the throttle (two at the very most)

4. Engine hot, at operating temp, just stalled it (at stoplight, etc...)

a - start as above, but do NOT blip the throttle at all. Your bike should simply start first kick without any throttle manipulation.

One common starting problem is that the idle speed is too low and this will make starting more difficult. Make sure your idle speed is set to spec and not any lower.

The colder the outside temperature, the more times you need to blip the throttle on a cold engine to get it to start. If the outside temp is real cold, say below 40F, then you have crank out the idle a good 2 1/2 to 3 turns and blip the throttle 4 or 5 times to get a quick start. Then, as the engine comes up to temp, you can back off the idle.

Great carb, great features. Throttle response is awesome.

Great bike.

Ride safe.

You guys are awesome, thanks! :thumbsup:

Would someone be so kind as to measure the throttle "carb travel" on an QS carb. On a stock pig its 20mm which equals 72 degrees rotation. Here is the procedure: as removed from

Part Max Max Adjuster Replacement

Number Throttle Twist ° Rate Travel Thread Adjuster Throttle Tube

01-0054 VORTEX 95° 1.90 50 8x1.25 01-0024 01-0082

01-0053 CR Pro 170° 2.93 58 10x1.25 01-0018 01-0087

01-0056 CR Comp 190° 2.35 81 10x1.25 01-0018 01-0088

01-0057 TURBO (Std.) 120° 2.30 52 8x1 Incl. 01-0089

TURBO (w/ Opt. Tube) 150° 2.00 75 8x1 Incl. 01-0072

01-0060 Magura 314 MX Setting 95° 1.90 50 None

Magura 314 Enduro Setting 105° 2.10 50

01-0058 Push/Pull Black 165° 3.67 45 Cable 01-0052

01-0059 Push/Pull Chrome 165° 3.67 45 Cable 01-0052

01-0073 Straight Push/Pull 109° 3.00 36 Cable Cable 01-0090

Rate = Twist° / mm Travel

Max travel is measured in millimeters (mm)


At Motion Pro, we never refer to our throttles by fractional names (1/4-turn, °-turn or other any other "turns"). How far a throttle fractionally turns is a function of the throttle's "rate" (how much cable inner wire the throttle's drum or cam reels in, versus how far in degrees the tube must be turned to reel it in) and the carb's/throttle body's travel (how much cable inner wire must be reeled in to fully open the carb(s) or throttle body(ies)).

As an example, our fastest throttle, the Vortex, has a rate of 1.90 (the maximum number of degrees turned divided by the maximum travel in mm, 95°/50mm of wire travel). Since it has a maximum of 95° to turn, it will never be much more than a 1/4-turn throttle but in any application requiring less than 50mm of travel, it will be less than °-turn to fully open. If only 25mm of travel is required, it will be about a 1/8-turn throttle. The opposite of the Vortex is our CR Pro; our slowest single-pull throttle. It has a rate of 2.93, the result of a maximum of 170° turn and 58mm of travel. The rule of rates is simple; the smaller the value of the rate, the faster the throttle will open the carb.

Since we do not know the travel of your carb(s) or throttle body(ies), we will not quote a fractional turn. With careful measurement you can determine the approximate fractional turn required by a given carb and throttle by removing your existing throttle from your existing cable. Carefully measure the exposed inner wire (in millimeters) between the last fitting on the housing (the cap, elbow fitting, or threaded adjuster) and the wire end fitting (usually a ball or barrel). Do not include the wire end fitting in the measurement, only the exposed wire. Write down the measurement, it is your present "throttle free length." Now pull the inner wire until the carb is fully open against the stop and repeat the measurement. Subtract the throttle free length from the measurement you have just taken; this figure is the carb's "travel." Refer to the "rate" of the throttle you are considering. Multiply your carb's "travel" by the "rate" of the throttle. The result is the approximate number of degrees the throttle will turn to fully open the carb(s).

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