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will i have more power with the 3x3 mod


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Bronc, the DJ kit includes a selection of main jets. Now here is the catch: When you do the mod, you need to follow Burned's instructions, which are different than those included in the kit, and you will not use all of the parts in the kit.

You will make the jetting richer by using the needle from the dj kit. This needle is smaller, so with the new needle in the stock main jet, significantly more fuel will pass through. Now the size main jet you need is dependent on elevation and other conditions, like whehter you have a stock exhaust or a modified exhaust. Again, you gotta look up the burned instructions. But understand that because the needle is smaller, most DRZs end up with the stock or SMALLER main jet when you are done. For example, I am at 1000' above see level with a yosh full system and i run a 140 main, which is one notch smaller than the stock main jet.

The other big benefit to the DJ kit--and I can't believe no one pointed this out--is the improvement in throttle response. The CV carb has a spring above the slide, which causes the slide to close when you close the throttle. Conversely, it resist the slide coming up too fast when you open the throttle. The dj kit has a new spring that is a lighter spring rate, so the throttle will open quicker and you will have a significant improvement in throttle response.

So like the others said, get moving with this mod and when you have questions, the group here have the answers. They've done it over and over and pretty well have it down to a science. So much so that when I did my bike, I followed burned's instructions to the letter, and the bike ran great the first time I started it up.

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i did a search on the 3x3 mod and found alot of info.but...my buddy has told me it will do absolutely nothing...if i feel a diference it will be my imagination. and that if i had it jetted properly i can get the same results as the 3x3.then i told him more air+more fuel = more power right?..now, i saw that quick ref about the 3x3 mod and i will keep the stock pipe for now.so i guess i need to know will i gain a little power or better throttle response or both.any H.P gains with the stock pipe?

he also mentioned that due to the seasons here in the north east (Ma) that the jetting will be different at 40F than 80F...and i mentioned that the pilot screw can compensate for that along with elevation.so, what do you people think?

I just bought an '00 S and I drilled 1 1/2" holes in my side panel like Burned's SM and re-jetted without the kit. My bike runs very nice now, but it did get louder. I am running the stock pipe but I am working on adapting a White Bro's E-Series pipe that came with the bike but was for an E so the mid mount has to be moved.

Anyway, I am also in Massachusetts and was wondering where you are. I am in Ware, just at the southern tip of the Quabbin resevoir. If you ever want to go on a killer ? DS loop around here, let me know.

Greg

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Bronc, the DJ kit includes a selection of main jets. Now here is the catch: When you do the mod, you need to follow Burned's instructions, which are different than those included in the kit, and you will not use all of the parts in the kit.

You will make the jetting richer by using the needle from the dj kit. This needle is smaller, so with the new needle in the stock main jet, significantly more fuel will pass through. Now the size main jet you need is dependent on elevation and other conditions, like whehter you have a stock exhaust or a modified exhaust. Again, you gotta look up the burned instructions. But understand that because the needle is smaller, most DRZs end up with the stock or SMALLER main jet when you are done. For example, I am at 1000' above see level with a yosh full system and i run a 140 main, which is one notch smaller than the stock main jet.

The other big benefit to the DJ kit--and I can't believe no one pointed this out--is the improvement in throttle response. The CV carb has a spring above the slide, which causes the slide to close when you close the throttle. Conversely, it resist the slide coming up too fast when you open the throttle. The dj kit has a new spring that is a lighter spring rate, so the throttle will open quicker and you will have a significant improvement in throttle response.

So like the others said, get moving with this mod and when you have questions, the group here have the answers. They've done it over and over and pretty well have it down to a science. So much so that when I did my bike, I followed burned's instructions to the letter, and the bike ran great the first time I started it up.

Thanks, I am planning on doing exactly what you have recommended. I am at sea level and the bike has a full FMF system. I'll look for Burned's specs and jet accordingly.

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The fact of the mater is the bike is set up to meet California emissions which means lean as possible with out destroying the engine. The air box and the snork a there to reduce the air volume that can enter the carb. I did the 3X3 the pipe and air filter and dynoed it and it is a completely different machine.

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yeah i did the 3x3, dj stage 2, full ti yoshi trs pipe and wow what a difference snappy throttle response. me friends have all stock sm except me so we compared to stock and mine. u wont regret the mod.!

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The fact of the mater is the bike is set up to meet California emissions which means lean as possible with out destroying the engine. The air box and the snork a there to reduce the air volume that can enter the carb. I did the 3X3 the pipe and air filter and dynoed it and it is a completely different machine.

Umm, kinda..

All DRZ S/SM have the same air box snorkel.. not just CA models.. The CA models have a fuel vapor recovery system that is CA only.

But yes, they are all set up lean to meat EPA requirements.

And the snorkel is there more for noise reduction then limiting intake of air to the carb.

Bottom line..

Yes the S/SM responds with more power and throttle response when the snorkel is removed and jetting is set correctly to the area you ride ?

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Believe it or not...I never rejetted when I installed my Yosh and 3X3. At 4000ft, it runs like a top and pulls like no other. It does well at sea level too!

How much untapped power do you think I have by NOT rejetting with a full Uosh and 3X3? If it runs good, do I leave it alone or am I missing out?

Dan

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Believe it or not...I never rejetted when I installed my Yosh and 3X3. At 4000ft, it runs like a top and pulls like no other. It does well at sea level too!

How much untapped power do you think I have by NOT rejetting with a full Uosh and 3X3? If it runs good, do I leave it alone or am I missing out?

Dan

I am not the expert, but I think you think your bike runs good because you don't know what a re-jet would do. When I did my 3X3, I took the bike out without new jetting and needle, and the bike ran worse! Used Dynojet needle and Burned jetting specs, and the difference was like night and day. I am running stock exhaust at sea level. I would be worried about your motor because it sounds to me it might be running very lean. Just my .02$

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