Just bought, can't start! Help!

I need help. I just bought a 2001 WR426. I have started the thing several times from a cold start with no problems. Well, last night I took it down the block to a friends house and while it was sitting there, he was twisting the throttle. So, I couldn't start it no matter what I did. I tried kicking through 20-30 time swith the red knob out and gas off, then cold start, the same procedure then hot start, the same procedure with no choke. No start. So, I let it sit over night and I went out this morning and tried a cold start procedure, same problem. I smelled gas, so I went through the whole procedure as if it was flooded. No start. Could there be another problem? Any suggestions? Oh, and there is gas in it and the spark plug is connected.

Your plug is probably fouled. Try a new one. NEVER let someone sit there and twist the throttle!!!!

Just for the hell of it, I'd take the spark plug out and see if it's drenched with fuel. The first thing the guy I bought my WR said to me was 'put your hand on the handlebar, NOT the throttle' when kicking it to start. I never, ever gave it any gas when starting and never had trouble starting it. My guess is that your plug is very, very wet. In the summer I didn't use the choke either, just kicked it and it always started 1-2 kicks. Good luck.


ps, if you search the posts for 'starting', you'll probably come up with a ton of other ways people use to start them.

I would also drian the oil right away and replace it with good clean oil since all the gas from a bike without the BK mod that got squirted by your Accelerator Pump probably now has dilluted the oil.....enough to make me worry a bit for sure....oil is cheap, a bearing job a few weekends from now is not......ya just never know.....NEXT I would do the BK mod...then this will never happen again.


01' WR426,YZ timing,EMP #2,#48Pilot,#100PAJ,#172 Main,BK mod,stock pipe-no baffle, open airbox,Gray-Wire Pulled,K&N Filter, throttle stop mod,CA Street Legal,Pure SuperMotard 17 in. wheels, 15/46 gears,ProTaper bars,


no, no, no your wrong! it's far worse than that!

i'm afraid that the lips on the piston will have lost their suction. you know the pwa! the engine will now be easy to kick over and this is proof that the lips have lost it and therefore as such i have to tell you that the bike NEEDS A COMPLETE ENGINE REBUILD!

unfortunately yamaha won't supply new lips alone so you need A WHOLE NEW ENGINE and the bike is so new that you can't get this model engine yet so i think what i'm saying here is that YOU NEED A NEW BIKE!!!


Thats pretty funny Taffy

1. Turn off the gas.

2. Lay the bike on its side, so the rest of the gas drains out of the carb. Pick it back up!

3. Kick it about 50 times or more with the hot start AND the compression release open.

4. Try the normal hot starting set-up.

5. If that fails, then turn on the gas and choke with hot start off.

6. If it still won't start, then take off the tank and pull the plug and install a new one and start it up like it was cold. Since it now is!


Mark...00 426 w/plates,and $4000.00 of other attachments!

Thanks, I actually put in a new spark plug, kicked over with the cold start method and it started right up! I took the bike out today for the first time on dirt and man the bike screams! Scared the livin HELL out of me! I guess it'll take some gettin used to.

Thanks again.

everytime i read another post about how

hard these yammies are to start , a ktm

with the button is looking better and better

when the time comes to retire the mighty xr !

get a 12 guage.

go to your buddy's house (presuming your bike is still marooned there.)

point it at him until he gets it started.

when started, shoot him in the right hand.

you will never have this problem again wink.gif


The Missile

'99 WR400F

Airbox Lid - gone

Throttle Stop - shorty!

Plastics/Tank/Seat - One Industries

Street Legal

I've been riding the bike for around 6 hours since I bought it and now I can say that the bike is easy to start hot or cold. It kicks over on the first try every time, and man I am still amazed by the power that this bike puts out!

I find if I squeeze the front brake lever it prevents me from twisting the throttle when kicking.


The misconception/reputation for being difficult to start is tough to shake. For the riders that don't know how to start these bikes, it is tough. Once the regimen is understood, these bikes are very easy to start, AS EVERYONE finds out.


'99 WZ/YR (you choose!) with ALL YZ mods, de-octopused, DSP Doug Henry airbox w/ velocity stack, FMF PowerBomb header, Stroker SX-1 silencer, SS front brake line, OEM YZ tank, IMS YZ seat, Mobil 1 15W-50.

When I was new to riding my dads XR 600 seemed impossible to start compared to my 250 (which took me longer than it should to start anyway), but at the time I knew nothing about TDC, plugs, flooding, etc. Anyway, now that I know what im doing I can get that beast roaring in about 3 seconds flat on the 1st or 2nd kick.

Anyway, just because a thumper requires a little more finesse to get going then a 2 smoker, doesnt mean their hard to start.

(Is it just me, or is a starting drill worth it compared with spooge and premix? I thought so)


- Just so everyone knows, I am bajagod, but for whatever reason this BB seems to decide that the Bajagod nick does not exist for short periods of time. So i'll be using this for awhile

[This message has been edited by eater_of_dirt (edited October 07, 2001).]

Littlemeh, i learned that absolutely correct jetting will solve all starting ills, not to mention proper operation.

if it's any consolation, my bike wouldn't start @ all right out of the box either. rather than fool around, i brought it back to the dealer & THEY couldn't start it. they changed the plug & tweaked the fuel screw & that made it only ever so slightly easier. then, with some help from the forum (jetting charts) & another 4-stroke pilot, i got the jetting dialed in. after you get that correct, you'll not have a problem. Kevin is right; the starting maladies are hard to live down, but now mine cranks up 1st or 2nd kick even after sitting for 2-3 weeks. i never use the choke (1 twist if the throttle only) & hardly ever use the hot start button unless the bike somehow (???) finds it way on its side... bobwombat

I find that if I have a pit chick follow me around and always stand on the throttle side of the bike when starting, giving me something to hold onto with my right hand, I never flood the beast......It is difficult however to find one that can keep up on foot......

Bonzai grin.gif

Ditto bobwombat. Hard starting = improper starting procedure OR improper jetting. Once you have the starting drill down, it is simply a matter of knowing what minor "tweak" may be needed (if any needed at all) to get fire. This can vary from using the choke or priming with the throttle to using the hotstart and/or clearing with the decomp lever. In any case, after about 6 or 8 kicks jetting needs to be looked into.

This of course is based on my limited experiences. My brother and I just started riding brand new dirt bikes about 6 months ago. I got a WR250F and he got an XR250. I am absolutely convinced that this is not a Yamaha thumper issue. My brother's experiences have been virtually identical to mine. He does still have some trouble with starting procedure and often I can light his bike very quickly after he has attempted repeatedly. What I have found is that if I can not quickly determine if hotstart is needed and/or get the chamber cleared if needed and get it all sorted out within about 6 to 8 kicks, then there is a jetting problem (or possibly a wet plug from too many "improper" starting attempts). When either of our bikes seem to be jetted properly, they light pretty quickly under any circumstance (cold start, stalled bike, upside down bike, etc.). When jetting is off a bit, 20 minute starting rituals become the rule more than the exception.

Again, I'm a newbie and I could be wrong. But, it seems like the more successful I am at getting the bikes jetted correctly for the riding conditions, the more the hard starting issues tend to disappear.

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