100W headlight on AC or DC?

I spoke with rickystator and he does have the 200W+ 10 pole stator that will work in my bike. It's $130.00 and has the dual outputs. I may just go this route. Wire one output as AC to run my 90/100W bulb, and the other 100W output to the DC side.

Then I'll just buy the reg/rect all in one package for the DC side. For the AC side, I am not sure how much the stock regulator can handle. I want to make sure I don't damage it if I turn off my headlight. So I may just buy an aftermarket one.

It's more money, but it may be worth it over trying to find a used stator in unknown condition, and then rewinding it. At least the method above has been tried and proven many times.

I'm a bit dissapointed because I really wanted to use what I have. But I also want to have a good bullet proof setup I'll never have to mess with again.

The stock AC reg is pretty wimpy. It can't take the current from a high output stator if you turn off your headlight. Get the aftermarket one.

Shoot. I was thinking of this article;


This stator is exactly like mine, 12 poles, 2 for ignition and 10 for lighting. I didn't know what year your bike was, but I assumed it was the same as in the article.

Obviously, Ricky Stator's stator is the 12 pole one that must bolt up on your older bike. IF you could get ahold of a 12 pole stator, then you can do the wind I was discussing. Otherwise, just get the Ricky Stator and go on with it. Good luck. Sorry.

No problem. I really don't think I can find a 12 pole stator for cheap enough to make it worth my while. I'll just buy the ricky stator part, a heavy duty AC regulator, and the standard reg/rect for the DC side.

I've been looking at different halogen H4 bulbs, and depending on where I buy them from, sometimes they come in 100/80W and others 100/90W. I wonder what the difference is.

The only thing with the ricky stator part is that I'll have 100W for the headlight, so I am sure at idle it will slightly dim, but I don't think it will be a problem. 100 watts is a lot of light. I'll run some nice fat wire so I don't loose any voltage that might help a little.

Thanks again for all your help. I definitely learned a lot and I am sure I'll use this info someday.

I don't mean to jump in, but I had a question about my stator/voltage regulator and you guys seem very knowledgeable. I bought a Ricky Stator high output stator and at the moment I don't have a headlight and it burned the wire into going to my voltage regulator. Thinking that my regulator must be bad I replaced it with an aftermarket regulator and the wires still got very hot. Will a 100w light relieve the stress on the regulator? Currently, I've got the lighting wire unplugged from the stator until I get a light.

Since their is no light, the regulator will have to deal with the full 100W of power. I don't have any experinece with these parts yet. But I am familiar with electronics. Putting a 100W light on the bike would take care of that problem as long as it is all wired properly. Or if you don't want to put a light on, you might consider adding more of a heatsink to the regulator. Like a peice of aluminum that the regulator can mount flat against to dissipate some of the heat.

It will be normal for the regulator to get hot if their is no other load on the system, but if the regulator is rated for over 100W, then it should not burn the wires or damage the regulator, just got hot.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the input, I'll try the headlight.


The Ricky Stator, as it is wired as 2 coils, can be wired in parallel to give a single HIGH output, comparable to the 16awg (200W+) wind we were discussing. Just for comparison sake, after you get the stator, temporarily wire it in parallel and check the coil resistance. I was getting a low .2 - .3 Ohms with my 16awg wind. I would guess that the Ricky Stator parallel wind would be comparable. By the way, I'm pretty sure he and Baja Designs uses 18awg over 5 poles X 2, but they really wrap the poles fat.

Plus side, you don't have to mess with 2 regulators and extra wiring, as space is already tight on the bike. Also, you won't be strapped with a 125W output pushing a 100W headlight.

Negatives, same as before. You will have ALOT of output with the Ricky parallel wind. Just like J8850 mentioned melting wires, you know all this so you will be ok as long as it's wired for the current flow in your system.

Let us know how it goes...

I'll be ordering the stator today and I will check the resistance with the outputs in parallel when it comes in.

I already purchased a heavy duty ac regulator, and a standard 200W reg/rec for the DC side. But I also have the 25A full wave bridge rectifier I purchased earlier. So I have a few options.

As far as parts though, it will work out to be the same either way. If I go with the dual outputs, I need the AC regulator I purchased for the headlight, and the reg/rec for the DC side. But if I go with a single high power output, I still need the AC regulator, and the 25A rectifier.

Though I think I'll machine a small bracket out of aluminum that will mount to the two bolts that hold the airbox in under the seat. It will be used as a battery hold down, and a place to bolt the two components.

I'll wire everthing up in such a way that if I decide to change from dual output to a single output, all I will have to do is replace the reg/rec with the high power rectifier, tie the dual outputs together, and connect my AC regulator to the rectifier. It should be an easy change over just near the stator and battery without having to re-run any wiring.

I'll let you know how it goes when the parts come in.

I received my stator today. Though I have no clue how to hook it up. I'll have to call ricky stator tomorrow and make sure I do it right.

Their is a black wire, which I think is the exciter coil wire. Then their are 2 white and 2 green wires which must be the lighting coil wires. But I just want to make sure.

I'll check the reisistance with the two outputs in parallel once I find out what they are.

I have the PDF of the wiring diagrams from Ricky... give me your mail addy

and I'll send them to you... i'm at rbva@hotmail.com

I know have one other wiring question. I thought I would keep it in this thread since it is related.

This is the DSK switch I am using:

DSK switch

I want to run my headlight on the AC of one of my stator outputs. Then the rest of the lighting and horn on the DC side.

I still want to have full functionality of my DSK switch.

A couple of problems I encountered. If I want to run my headlight on AC through the switch, I would have to hook up one of my AC lines to hi/low main wire. Then the other AC line would go to the headlight. So when I turn on the headlight switch, the AC will go through the switch to my hi or low beam wire depending on where I have the push button.

This is fine, but the problem is that the parking lights also use the hi/low main wire, which is AC. But the parking lights will be running on the DC side. So I solved this by just running my parking lights through my key switch which has 4 wires, 2 of them are NO and 2 of them are NC. I'll also run my kill switch to my key switch in series with my DSK kill switch. So I can turn off the bike either way.

Now the problem I haven't solved yet is that the horn and kill switch use the same ground in the DSK switch. The horn has it's own main wire, which will be from the DC side, and the kill switch has its own main wire which will be coming from the CDI unit which runs from the AC side. So can I use the DC ground on my kill switch which is connected to the CDI unit? I have to put the ground on the DC side for the horn to work.

If I can get around this kill switch / horn thing then I should be good to go.


Well, it's never easy is it. First, you really have 3 sides. The AC, the DC and the ignition. They are pretty separate. The ground for the ignition is the frame of the bike. That what the other side of the black wire is connected to. So the ground for the kill switch needs to be connected to the frame for it to work. Do the same for your DC side, make the frame the ground. Don't make a "ground" for the AC side. One side of the AC goes to the switch. From the switch to the high and low terminals of the headlight. The common terminal on the headlight is connected to the other side of the AC. Neither side of the AC is connected to the frame.

If that stator has 2 independent coils, I think you might be better off using one coil for the headlight, and the other for the DC. Then you can connect one side of the AC to the frame.

For an added possible issue, my AC regulator case is connected to one of the AC leads. You better check the one you are planning on using if you need to float the AC side of your wiring. Again this will not be an issue if you use one coil for AC and the other for DC.

I will be running two sepearte lighting coils, one for the AC headlight, and the other for my DC side. I was planning on floating both of the AC sides, then I can use the frame ground for my DC. (But it sounds like I could run my headlight AC to the frame ground since it is separate from the other AC coils. That would save me running another wire.) Since my horn and kill switch share the same ground wire, this will be going to the frame. So when I press the kill switch, it will be grounded to the frame.

The coil is grounded to the frame. Will this affect the charging of the DC side since the ground is also to the frame. I am assuming not since the ignition is separate for the lighting coils.

Ok I think I understand. I'll just wire it up and be on my way.


Contact BajaDesigns, They have a relay switch setup that will let you

do what you are planning. You end up using the Light switch on the SDK

switch to turn on the Relay that then lets the current flow from the second

coil / output to the head light. They also have a cool diagram showing how to

hook it all up.... you will need the the original Regulator though.

Ya, I saw that. I even found some photos on their website showing exactly how they hooked it up and the relay they use.

But they might use a different type of DSK switch than I have. Becuase my DSK switch as an independent circuit for the headlight hi/low beam. So I can just run my AC line right into my DSK headlight main wire, and then the output of the hi and low wires will go to my headlight. It will all be on AC, and nothing else is connected to this power within the switch. The switch should be able to handle the current. I spoke with the maker of the switch and a couple of others who have used it with no problems.

The only two reason I can think of why BD uses the relay is becuase the DSK switch can't handle the current of a high powered headlight, or the power going into the DSK switch is shared between the headlight, parking lights, and turn signals. Therefore you don't want to run AC into it.

But who knows, I may be overlooking something obvious. I'll soon find out.

Terry, I think youre right. The power is shared (one power in)

Although your switch looks just like mine (BD switch)

I'll be setting mine up next weekend so I'll let you know how it goes.

Sorry about the wiring diagrams.. I don't know why but I thought we were

talking XR650R.... I sent them to you anywat, plus some "alternate" wiring


Thanks for the diagrams.

I also looked at the Baja Designs switch and it looked identical to mine. Did the BD switch come with a pinout like the one I display in the picture? If so, do the wires match?

I definitely do not have one power going in as you can see from the pinout description. I have a main headlight wire, a main horn wire, and a main turn signal wire. I wanted to make sure so I just ohmed out the connector and all the main wires are completely independent of eachother.

Anyway, I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks for the diagrams.

I also looked at the Baja Designs switch and it looked identical to mine. Did the BD switch come with a pinout like the one I display in the picture? If so, do the wires match?

I definitely do not have one power going in as you can see from the pinout description. I have a main headlight wire, a main horn wire, and a main turn signal wire. I wanted to make sure so I just ohmed out the connector and all the main wires are completely independent of eachother.

Anyway, I'll let you know how it goes.

This is how it looks .... not as nice.. or usefull a diagram as yours. I'll draw one

up over the weekend when I take it down to wire up the 2nd coil.

My low beam stopped working... if you fiddle with the switch it still comes on

sometimes, but goes off again soon after. BD is sending me a new one, no

questions asked (great guys) Anyhow, I might just wait till it gets here before

I tear everything down...


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