Waterless Coolant in 06 YZ450F

Just thought i would post this. I decided to put this evans waterless coolant NPG+ in my bike and it works great. It is designed to be used without any water and is supposed to last 400,000 miles in a car. I started using it in my F350 powerstroke diesel because it doesnt require additives like the manufacturers coolant does and it is also used as a pressure less system. The boiling point of this stuff is so hi it doesnt require pressure to raise the boiling point of the coolant. They even tell you to drill a hole in the rad cap of your vehicle. Of course i didnt drill a hole in the cap of my YZ450 but i have been using it in my bike now for 3 weeks and have had no boil overs at all. I raced with it last weekend in a GP with no problems. I have used it in my truck for 3 years now and the resevior looks brand new still and doesnt stain like the stock coolant stuff. Just thought I would post this in case anyone else was considering trying anything like this. Oh, and i DO NOT sell this stuff and dont get paid to advertise i promise.

what is it called, where can you get it, and how much does it cost?

BTW welcome to TT :thumbsup:

Its called: Evans Waterless Coolant NPG+, I got it from dieselsitetoo and its around 27.00 a gallon. If you look on the website we should be using Evans NPG-R for our bikes though. It is a little expensive but works great in my truck for 3 years now so i fugured what the hell and gave a shot in the bike. Hope this helps. Evans has a site with all the info. evanscooling

I also just found this on zipty racing website. They market it in a different container but if you close it says the small evans coolant logo on it.


sound like some pretty cool stuff, (no pun intended :thumbsup: ) I might actuallyhave to try some, my yz 400 gets real hot sometimes and I live in Phoenix, AZ

It might not boil over, but it must not have very good heat transfer. I looked at Evan's suggestions on putting their coolant in my LS1-based HD pickup truck. Remove thermostat (!). Double the radiator's thickness (!). Have separate oil coolers (!). Replace cap with 7 psi model.

Thanks for testing it in a bike, I think I'll pass, though.

The only way to tell if it is transferring enough heat i guess is to get thermal readings on the cylinder or something or the actual water temp under controled conditions. any suggestions. I was under the impression that it transfers heat better because it has no cavitation. The lower psi cap replacement is beacause it doesnt need the coolant system to be pressurised to raise the boiling point. As far as the other stuff like thermostat and radiator that seems strange so maybe youre right. I dont know.

I think i will pass on this one too.....

I have never had my bike over heat.... even in dune riding at 40degC+.

I dont think the really high boiling point is such a great thing.... coolant will boil for a reason.... normally something is wrong!!! I wouldn't like my engine to heat to an abnormal point before it was noticed.

Cooling also come down to the efficiency of radiators and air flow etc.... not just the fluid running in the system.



i've been running evans for some time now,without a problem. i use the npg-r though,its of a lighter viscocity and flows easier thru the small system of a dirtbike. it does only have around 77% of the heat transfer of water,BUT....it eliminates molar cavitation,which my understanding is when the coolant boils on the water jackets around the cylinder causing air pockets which in turn reduce the contact between metal/coolant. i do run it with fluidynes but before that i ran my last bike(wr)with the stock rads and evans :thumbsup:

if you put a bigger rad cap on the bike it will stop boiling over pressure. like on the stock 06 450f if you go to a 1.6 it will stop boiling over, at this past weekends race i saw many 06 yzf have coolent running out of the over flow tube, for less then 1 min. i counted a total of 12.

i talked to my suspension guy and he told me he has heard of the 06's to over heat, but replace the stock anitfreeze, with engine ice, and place a 1.6 cap, and it will solve the problem.

raising the pressure will raise the boiling point,then when it does boil its gonna be a larger problem. i tried engine ice before going to evans even with the stronger cap i couldn't keep the stuff in during a tight HS. evans is the way to go :thumbsup: i remember hearing that ethylene glycol based coolants(NPG-R) might be illegal for some competitions,and that might limit some to NPG+ as its propylene glycol :thumbsup: who's really gonna know anyhow?

The evans I heard is good stuff...but I have been testing the ZipTy waterless race coolant for the past few months and I have had no boil-overs at all. Then again, I never had any boil-overs when I was using Engine Ice either...and I ride in tight stuff where you have to really work the clutch.

The main problem with these 'waterless' coolants is that their heat transfer efficiency is much less than water, resulting in an engine that is always running hotter as a consequence.

The evans I heard is good stuff...but I have been testing the ZipTy waterless race coolant for the past few months and I have had no boil-overs at all. Then again, I never had any boil-overs when I was using Engine Ice either...and I ride in tight stuff where you have to really work the clutch.

zip-ty is repackaged evans,i don't know if they do anything extra to it before they double the price :thumbsup:

The main problem with these 'waterless' coolants is that their heat transfer efficiency is much less than water, resulting in an engine that always running hotter as a consequence.
True. You'll run coolest with straight distilled water. I add just enough coolant to get my desired freeze protection and I have no problems. Evans is good if you can't keep fluid in your rads.

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