Warning: Ssr 125 D

Today was the first day this pit bike that we ordered from outlawpowersports has seen the dirt and for one, the ignition cover busted on it after the second lap on the mini track was complete, do to the fact that the rear sprocket came loose (tightened it when we got it) and threw the chain. Once I managed to attach the ignition cover back on, I headed out to the mini track again and I did not even finish my second lap, when the rear shock broke . By this time I was absolutly ticked off because this cheap product broke under little stress. I was going as slow as the little kids on the track when it busted.

So my advice to everyone is, DO NOT BUY ANY SSR BIKES. And yes I heard that these pit bikes were comparable to others of higher price and that is why I purchased this one, but boy was that wrong. Now, I just want to get my money back, so that I can get a Pitster (or something nicer), but they just want to replace the shock for free, which is nice, but the same thing will happen again.

On a side note, the bracket which holds the spark arrester in place broke as well, from riding it on the street.

Thanks for reading...

I do apologize for the issues you have had with your bike. That is the first shock I have heard of on the SSR125-D breaking. I will admit that several people have upgraded that shock for one that performs better, but, no reports of breakage. We will replace it for you or give you a credit or refund for our cost on the shock.

As far as the chain coming off and breaking the ignition cover, that is due purely to the chain not being tightened and maintained properly. This is evident to the damage to the swing arm from the loose chain dragging on it (see picture).

pit%20bike%20003.jpg

Man that's rough.

I hope you gave outlawpowersports a chance to correct things for you before venting on a public forum. Anger is a bad thing. And poop happens ya know.

Outlaw mini's: sorry man but I have do disagree with you on the chain slap. With the radical swing arm angles it's not uncommon to see that.

It's tough trying to keep every irate customer happy. And they're not always honest about how things actually got broke. Good luck with this one.

Well maybe its time for me to do a "long term" video review on my C-4, for all the skeptics. I say its a fluke that the shock broke as I have seen it happen on Japanese street bikes.

I do apologize for my first post, but when things are not cracked up to how they should be and it ends your day on the track, it is downright frustrating.

wer did u ride today..are u from socal or norcal

I'd be a little upset over the shock myself but Outlaw said he'd take of it. I'd say you're on your own with the sprocket coming loose. Before you ride again tear the bike down and loctite everything. It's cheap insurance against this type of thing happening in the future, and you know that everything is solid.

first off you should never have rode it with out a chain guide ,why ssr doe's not come with one is ?? my friends threw the chain a few times before he got a guide.

hit up staggs racing for a quality chain guide and check out the staggs 1000 lbs shock it a great shock for the money .

also if your ssr came with a plastic throttle junk it for a billet throttle (my friends had a plastice throttle , plastic kill switch , no chaine guide ,and the bars were like nothing i've ever seen BUT ssr's are a great buy if you plan on spending a few bucks to iron out the little problems .

good luck with your bike.

I rode at Racetown 395 in socal. Thank you for the advice DEMON DAVE

I went riding with my friend the other day and his new SSR had a few things come loose: engine mounts, rear sprocket...and a couple other things. He also bent the bar that holds the pegs. The moral of the story is you really need to check the bikes over with a fine tooth comb when you order them online. It seems like a decent bike though

Loose bolts, broken shock on your SSR. Man, that's taking some wind out of my sail. My SSR125-E should be here sometime late this week. That is if the money I sent by mail ever gets to him.

I guess I'm spending a few hours with a big bottle of red loctite and getting aquainted with some bolts and nuts. Crap.

Also sounds like Nate is on it with offers to fix things.

Just how tight do you tighten the chain anyway??? Does it affect the chain tension if I set it up quite tight in a "resting" position, or does that do anything to the chain tension when I'm into the suspension travel???

Tim.

For what it's worth, on any bike that I've never had any experience with, I unbolt the shock and align the countershaft sprocket, swingarm pivot and rear axle in a straight line with a straightedge. Then I block up the rear wheel to hold it in this position. This is the tightest point of the chain. Then I adjust the chain to proper tension. (On bikes with spring tensioners like the Pitster Pro I pull them down so that they have no effect on the chain while I'm doing this.)

After I've properly tightened the chain I reinstall the shock, release the tensioner (if any) and measure the chain tension with the rear wheel off the ground. This gives me a measurement for future chain adjustments. By checking your new bike this way you can accurately determine your proper chain tension and hopefully avoid over/undertightening your chain.

Also, remember that bikes are assembled at the factory by people who have no interest in bikes other than to draw a paycheck so they often don't do things "right", i. e. properly torque bolts, grease all pivot points, etc. I recommend everyone disassemble all new bikes' chassis and reassemble them carefully, including Japanese bikes. They go out for three sake lunches, too!!

Remember to change the fork oil, either when assembling the bike new or soon after break-in. Also lube the control cables and bleed the hydraulic brakes, if so equipped.

By following these pointers 99% of new bike problems, such as those mentioned in this thread, can be eliminated. :thumbsup:

that swingarm is way chewed up. I've been riding an SSR bike with +5 swinger since June and mine isn't even close to lookin like that.

And yes, run a chainguide. That's the first thing you see in any threads about "what to fix on an import"

As for the shock - looks like the bearings/bushings didn't rotate freely or the shock was overtightened. Take the credit from outlaw and have him get you a new staggs supremacies shock and have it done. Face it, the stock shock is a piece of poo anyway. :thumbsup:

I rode at Racetown 395 in socal. Thank you for the advice DEMON DAVE

your welcome ,hit me up next time you go there i need some track time its been weeks ,man i'm dying to ride again.

You guys going to be at the DelMar series this Sat. at Competitive edge MX Park???

I have the C-4 and when you sit on it, the chain gets tighter. Best thing to do is to back off the preload or remove one end of the shock to cycle the rear suspension. (move it up and down) During the cycling, you can note when the chain is the tightest and adjust accordingly. Also note that my countershaft sprocket is NOT ROUND. This creates a tight spot, so check that also--rotate tire checking for a tight spot and then adjust. Does anyone know what quality countershaft sprocket crosses over to the C-4? p.s. I will post pix of my cut cases with case saver installed--it's a relatively easy home project.

Nearly all of the clone bikes I've seen use the Z-50 countershaft sprockets.

Nearly all of the clone bikes I've seen use the Z-50 countershaft sprockets

Nearly all, but my old 110 does not and I am having trouble finding a sprocket to fit it. If anybody else has experienced this, I am not sure what motor it is but it has all down gears, the holes for a 50 seem to line up on the sprocket but the splines are much bigger, Im not sure what size chain it is either but where the fiddy sprocket has splines that are about 1/10th of an inch across or even less mine are like big bike splines say 2/10th's or more, any help would be great.

Some of the Chinese engines use the Honda CT 70 counter sprocket others use the Z50 sprocket.

The shafts are usually 18mm or 20mm on the Chinese motors.

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