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TE rear rotor question

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My stock rear rotor is a floating unit, maybe everyone's is, but seems to have way too much play in it. Probably a mm side to side and a smidge front to back. I only have 200 km on the bike.

Sure seems noisey. I know a lot of you have complained about squeal, which eventually goes away in most cases, but what's normal? Do you all have substantial freeplay on the rotor?:thumbsup:

paul

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My stock rear rotor is a floating unit, maybe everyone's is, but seems to have way too much play in it. Probably a mm side to side and a smidge front to back. I only have 200 km on the bike.

Sure seems noisey. I know a lot of you have complained about squeal, which eventually goes away in most cases, but what's normal? Do you all have substantial freeplay on the rotor?:thumbsup:

paul

Yes, they are noisey and are a sloppy fit. Even other riders behind me can hear them rattle.

The four slotted location washers that locate the disc will wear. You can loosen the bolts and rotate them 90 degrees to an unwore spot.

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Yes, they are noisey and are a sloppy fit. Even other riders behind me can hear them rattle.

The four slotted location washers that locate the disc will wear. You can loosen the bolts and rotate them 90 degrees to an unwore spot.

Great. :thumbsup: Mine is new....I guess it can only get worse from here.

Are the aftermarket rotors floaters too? Assuming that I could get one other than OEM. Why have them float anyway? Heat transfer? The front doesn't....

paul

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Braking make a fixed wave disk if you don't like the floater. I have to say though, I don't notice much different.

The front Braking wave disk is loads better though (still floating), if you're after more performance.

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Yes the Braking wavy is a class disk.Excellent quality & feel the very best.

I don't like the rear floating disk I think it takes away some feel with rear braking.Why Husky bother with rear floating disc while they should have put one on the front 1st!!

To be honest I feel these NG discs as fitted to Husky & Gasgas are not fantastic quality.They are thin & wear quickly.

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brake disks wear? my rear never squeels only the front on long steep down hills after a day of riding. yes the float is loose.

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Maybe thats the bell like sound my bike makes,like a clang,metal on metal at idle?

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A floating rear brake on a MX bike, WAY TRICK! IMO the best rear brake I have every seen/used. The solid rotor, also a great design, no worries with mud. I dnt see why you guys would want to change it..

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Great. :thumbsup: Mine is new....I guess it can only get worse from here.

Are the aftermarket rotors floaters too? Assuming that I could get one other than OEM. Why have them float anyway? Heat transfer? The front doesn't....

paul

Paul, I wouldn't worry too much about it. The rear brake is sensitive but works great and the rattle is usually the last thing you are thinking about when you are trying to wash off that excessive speed.

WHO knows the actual advantages of a floating disc??????????

The standard rear pads are soft and wear quickly. Fit sintered pads when you replace them and they will last heaps longer.

Talking Brakes, I find the front brake very strong to the point of being too strong. Sometimes grabbing a hand full at speed can momentarily lock the front which is scary. A bit more progressive feel would be nice.

Maybe these "Wave" Discs can deliver this extra feel, but I haven't tried one!

:thumbsup:

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Glad you guys posted this. I've noticed the noise from the back of the bike and didn't realize it was the brakes. Usually only hear it while riding at low speeds. I let somebody ride my bike and heard it rattling and was wondering &%$#@!?

Ditto on the front brake. Gotta take it easy in sand, mud, gravel etc.

Lukejt

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Paul, I wouldn't worry too much about it. The rear brake is sensitive but works great and the rattle is usually the last thing you are thinking about when you are trying to wash off that excessive speed.

WHO knows the actual advantages of a floating disc??????????

The standard rear pads are soft and wear quickly. Fit sintered pads when you replace them and they will last heaps longer.

Talking Brakes, I find the front brake very strong to the point of being too strong. Sometimes grabbing a hand full at speed can momentarily lock the front which is scary. A bit more progressive feel would be nice.

Maybe these "Wave" Discs can deliver this extra feel, but I haven't tried one!

:thumbsup:

OK. It's not going to be easy, but I guess I'll have to learn to ignore it.

I never had any doubts about the performance of my brakes, but I am just very anal about squeeks and rattles, that's all. I hate 'em. It's almost an obsessive/compulsive thing. I've been thinking all day at work about how I can eliminate the slop back there....:thumbsup:

paul

paul

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I bleed my front the other day,it came good but I still have too much travel in the lever,the little wheel adj reduces free play but I am not keen to whined it in too far,

what point does your front pull into,mine will almost come to the bars.

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Maybe thats the bell like sound my bike makes,like a clang,metal on metal at idle?

Yup, that's it!

I noticed it too when I let someone else ride the bike.

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I've noticed that clanging too...makes me nervous on a new bike to hear clanging...I kept looking to make sure nothing was wrong with the shock/spring, etc. when I'd stop for a minute...

Thanks, it's always nice to 'know' the source.

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Mine too. First noticed it while unloading and pushing into garage. Put the TE on my stand to check for warp. Looked good, just floats. Two weeks ago while riding w/ three other Huskies I compared discs--all floated to some degree. Mine seemed to have a little more movement. Just an idiosyncrasy of this design, I guess.

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I bleed my front the other day,it came good but I still have too much travel in the lever,the little wheel adj reduces free play but I am not keen to whined it in too far,

what point does your front pull into,mine will almost come to the bars.

If your lever travels that far, then there's something wrong. The husky lever can be statically squeezed in a fair distance, but you would never go near there when riding. My adjuster is about 3/4 screwed in which gives me very little free play.

When bleeding, make sure you pull the brake hose down below the master cylinder (where it loops up over your speedo). You can also tap the outside of the line (starting at the caliper) with a screw driver to help let air float up into the master cylinder. After bleeding, push the caliper along its slides towards the wheel to push the caliper piston fully back into the caliper. This causes a rush of fluid back into the Master cylinder and can dislodge trapped air. You can do this as many times as you want. Its a neat trick to restore lever pressure if your lever gets a little mushy in between fluid changes. I do it before every ride.

Air trapped in the banjo bolt area is common. Back bleeding can disperse this.

:thumbsup:

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What I always do when bleeding brakes, after I have bled most of the air with a Mityvac brake bleeder (or just bleed using someone to help you pump the lever and then you crack the vavle on the caliper). Once I have done the best I can and the fluid is at the correct level, I leave the top master cylinder cover off. I then pump the lever until I see small bubbles forming at the bottom of the master cylinder. Eventually the bubbles will rise to the top. Keep pumping until you see no more bubbles. Can take a long time and some patience.

This will get your lever back to factory feel unless you have something else wrong.

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