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Disaster self inflicted. Need advice. Primary nut end of crank stripped.


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I've done quite a few stupid things in my time, but this one takes the cake.

This one is a stripped thread on the end of the crank for the primary nut.

My 3000ish mile 2002 S ran great. But I wanted a kick start, so I bought the kit and started the install per superb the Smugmug instructions. While I was in the I decided to remove and loctite the primary nut. Yes, I knew it was a left hand thread, but I tried to remove it with my impact wrench set for loosening a right hand thread. Net result a stripped thread on the crank.

I feel totally stupid. I do car and motorcycle repair all the time, but I don't do things like this. Or so I thought.

I am considering tearing into the engine myself because all I should need is a crank and a primary nut. But I am sure I don't have all of the right tools, and if I do the job it'll be quite a while before I finish.

So, I need advice.

Questions:

1. Are there, near Delaware, any good shops or independants that could replace the crank for me that won't break the bank?

2. Should consider shipping the engine to Burned?

3. Just how much are DRZ400 crate engines? Should I consider that route?

4. Anyone have a good 400S motor (or an E) they'd like to sell?

I don't deserve help after this boneheaded move, but I'm asking anyway.

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Here's a crazy idea for ya...The crank is screwed anyway so put the nut back on and have it welded on! That will hold it all together and let you use the engine until you are ready to rebuild the whole engine and replace the crank! ??

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Here's a crazy idea for ya...The crank is screwed anyway so put the nut back on and have it welded on! That will hold it all together and let you use the engine until you are ready to rebuild the whole engine and replace the crank! ?:confused:

the weld is not a bad idea,but you could also try a die, to try and rethread the shaft, if it is not to damaged. Another thought could be that Maybe you could check a standard shaft size, and maybe it might be slightly smaller. You then could run a standard die over it, and use a standard nut . Just a thought ?

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I had thought about cleaning the crank's threads and using one of the permanent LocTites. The green stuff is pretty good stuff, only comes off with a torch. But my fear is that if it fails I would trash the entire engine, where now the only bad part is the crank.

The threads on the crank are damaged, but not completely gone. I am not sure I trust them even with a fresh nut.

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try to fix the crank, might get lucky.if not take the crank out, and to a machist and have him turn it on a lathe and go down to the next size and get a new nut with a smaller diameter. or weld the F***er! DRZ's never wear out, just ride it and when the time comes sell it.

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Here is my suggestion :

Just buy a new right hand crank throw and send the entire crank to freewheelers while its out of the motor...... Have him do his stroker setup and replace the right hand throw at the same time. Oh ya! ?

sick bastard..... condem the man to a big bore

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No you can't weld it on. You need the clamping force of the nut. Yes it is possible to re-thread. There is nothing that says any thread has to be a standard size. The damaged thread can be "single pointed" in a lathe to restore it to a new custom slightly smaller size. Then a new nut is custom made to fit the undersize thread. Sounds like a lot of work but probably less then 2 hr of custom machine work for the nut and crank. As for time to rip the motor apart, 1 evening to get the motor out of the frame and 1 more to disassemble. You will need the correct puller to get the flywheel off. That is probably the only special puller you will need to do the job. With expedited ordering you could have it running by next week end, but more likely 2 weeks is more realistic.

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Here is my suggestion :

Just buy a new right hand crank throw and send the entire crank to freewheelers while its out of the motor...... Have him do his stroker setup and replace the right hand throw at the same time. Oh ya! ?

OR ... send your crank to me and I will just install a right hand crank throw on and send it back in stock form ... you are two hours from having the crank in your hand ... when you get there ... take the case to a suzuki shop to pull the flywheel and remove the crank from the left main bearing ... in which the crank is pressed into ... check ronayers ... I'm guessing the throw is around $150.00 ... I would fix it right ... the primary nut that holds the cam timing is way to important to take a chance ... the welding idea is not good either ... as that end of the crank has a machined surface the mates with the outside case ... which supplys the crank with oil.

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Well, I am still deciding what to do, but with my schedule in the next few weeks even Noble's two week "realistic" estimate of time is optimistic.

I am seriously considering paying someone to do the job if I could find a shop I knew to be good. Good and near enough Delaware that I could drive there. If I have to crate and ship the motor I might as well ship it to Burned.

The only shop I have references for is B&B Enterprises in Bear Delaware. Anyone here heard of them?

Can anyone recommend a good shop within reasonable driving distance of Delaware?

That being said, I haven't ruled out doing the job myself. I have a parts motor with what is hopefully a good crank. But I haven't split the case yet, mostly due to the very tight and soft Phillips flat head screws like what's on the oil pump. That and the flywheel I have no puller for.

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Well, I am still deciding what to do, but with my schedule in the next few weeks even Noble's two week "realistic" estimate of time is optimistic.

I am seriously considering paying someone to do the job if I could find a shop I knew to be good. Good and near enough Delaware that I could drive there. If I have to crate and ship the motor I might as well ship it to Burned.

The only shop I have references for is B&B Enterprises in Bear Delaware. Anyone here heard of them?

Can anyone recommend a good shop within reasonable driving distance of Delaware?

That being said, I haven't ruled out doing the job myself. I have a parts motor with what is hopefully a good crank. But I haven't split the case yet, mostly due to the very tight and soft Phillips flat head screws like what's on the oil pump. That and the flywheel I have no puller for.

Well how far away is freewheelers? He is in NY so its just a couple states away. He is the resident crank master... ?

He has done crank work for me on 2 bikes as well as the crank for Eddies bike, the TT project bike and a handful of other TT members. ?

The flywheel puller is like $50 and you need an impact screwdriver to remove the phillips screws.

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The flywheel puller is like $50 and you need an impact screwdriver to remove the phillips screws.

and a case splitter

and a tool to pull the crank back in to the case

and a tool to hold the clutch hub

and a digital cam to take lots of pics for the first time case splitter

and a manual for all the above

It is simple nuts and bolts work, but the right tools, even if home made will make the difference between a 1 hour assembly/disassembly and a new thread titled "I broke the XXXXX any ideas how to fix this or what it cost to replace?"

And yes,, I know,, now someone will come along and say how no special tools are needed, how they can disassemble and build a complete motor with just a pipe wrench and his dads awesome tool set from Harborer Freight.... Fine ? If it works for you... ?

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