what are you guys doing to the end cap to make it louder etc.....on the stock pipe
They are drilling out the baffle at the back of the cap. I have one already drilled if you want to trade you non modified cap.
you buy a 1 3/8" hole saw drill bit (About $10.00 and Lowes/Home Depot) and cut out the little baffle inside the crome tip, it is now less than a inch (The very end exit for the exhaust) I left mine on the bike and cut it out there. It's very thin. take about 10 seconds to cut out and looks very clean. It adds a little bark to the bike. If you have any questions on the specifics I would be more than happy to help you. Sometimes people on this site are no help at all.
Let me know if I explained it badly. It's very simple to do but a bit hard to describe. DO NOT DRILL OUT ANYTHING IN THE SPARK ARRESTOR!! ONLY CUT OUT THE LITTLE BAFFLE WELDED IN THE TIP. THE SCREEN/TUBE ALL STAY PUT!!! IF YOU FELL LIKE DRILLING, I DRILLED 8 HOLES THROUGH MY INTERNAL MUFFLER BAFFLES WITH A LONG ASS 3/8" DRILL BIT.
I did the end cap mod as Dirtywino, the sound improved a little, as did the flow of exhaust gas (I presume). I needed a little more noise so I used a 2 1/4" hole saw ( no need for an extension, it just reaches) to remove a good portion of the first baffle behind the spark arrester. Sounds a little better now. Tempted to drill out the next one though!
Thanks for the instructions, plan to mod. mine this weekend...along with the air box and jetting...
I drilled out the endcap as was mentioned above. I also removed the endcap, and drilled out the tube that sits inside the muffler. NOT THE SPARK ARRESTOR SCREEN!! I have a Whit Brothers E-Series pipe, and decided to mess with the stock pipe. It's a lot quiter than the pipe I drilled, and the stock pipe-drilled out makes this baby RIP!
Sorry! I meant the stock pipe was alot quiter than the White Brothers pipe.......and this baby STILL rips!
Originally posted by DR. Z: I drilled out the endcap as was mentioned above. I also removed the endcap, and drilled out the tube that sits inside the muffler. NOT THE SPARK ARRESTOR SCREEN!! I have a Whit Brothers E-Series pipe, and decided to mess with the stock pipe. It's a lot quiter than the pipe I drilled, and the stock pipe-drilled out makes this baby RIP!
How do you like your E-Series Pro-Meg? My understanding is that it improves the mid-top end, but not much on the botom. What did it do for your bottom end? Noticable difference?
Easy to do mod. I did this with teh end cap off the bike - hold the end cap with one hand while drilling with the other (be careful the bit doesn't get caught on the sheet metal...twisted hand ). As mentioned in previous post, it takes seconds to do and has a great sound.
I did it off the bike for ease of cleaning out the metal bits. Good luck.
Does the end cap mods require any jetting changes to keep the bike from over heating....
Opinions: How much difference does the end cap mod make? I have a 2000 "S". I have rejetted and done the air box mod. Now I have hole saw in hand and I am considering doing the end cap mod, but I want to get a performance gain for the extra noise. Will I get it and will it be significant? Thanks,
ScottN, You increased air intake (airbox mod) now you need to increase exaust(tailpipe mod) Seems logicial. It doesn't get much louder, it sounds deeper (and better) Go for it. take care erik
Originally posted by Scott N: Opinions: How much difference does the end cap mod make? I have a 2000 "S". I have rejetted and done the air box mod. Now I have hole saw in hand and I am considering doing the end cap mod, but I want to get a performance gain for the extra noise. Will I get it and will it be significant? Thanks,
It will be noticable Scott. I did the exact opposite of what you did. I did the end cap mod first and I noticed the increased power, all with a modest db gain. You'll like the throatier sound. I also did the mod with it on the bike. Just be careful of not applying too much pressure as the metal is very thin and you'll punch it thru in no time. As soon as you feel it go thru, stop the drill, as you don't want to damage the spark arrester mesh inside.
[ December 08, 2001: Message edited by: DR-ZEZ ]
Thanks. Drilled it out last night. Saw little or no increase in noise (most of that came when I did the airbox mod). I still don't consider it loud. It now wheelies instantly with a snap of the throttle at any speed/rpm in 1st gear. 3rd gear wheelies are doable but take a little work. I'd still like it to power the front end up a little easier in 2nd, but I think that will happen when I go up in rear sprocket size (47-48). Thanks again, I appreciate the knowledge/advice.
Scott, I have a UK S model, so there are some minor carb differences between your bike than mine(plus no spark arrestor thing), my bike has the following mods,
160 mainjet, needle raised one position,
Backfire screen removed,three holes cut in the exhaust side of the airbox,snorkle thrown,
DEP end can(muffler)
14tooth gearbox sprocket.
To help with the wheelying a 14tooth sprocket would help, my bike can lift it's front in 3rd gear with little trouble and 2nd and 1st gear are truly effortless, infact I dont bother wheelying in the first two gears any more, it's much more smoother in 3rd and you dont have to change up when your on the move, when your going for that long distance effort,
My bike alway wheelied in first and second when in std form(15 tooth sprocket) but after putting the 14tooth on it just made it easier,
The only thing I would say is that I am going back to the 15tooth, as I find the 14tooth a bit buzzy on the road,
At first I prefered the 14t on the road, but know I have ran it for a while I missed being able to sit at 70-75mph, which with the 14t on I felt the bike was revving a bit to hard(compared to the 15t) ,
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