gearbox output seals

it seems that the output seal behind the sprocket causes problems i went riding yesterday only to lose all the engine oil and nipped the engine up. although it was pretty full of mud in there, on taking apart this evening sure enough the seal had completly destroyed itself, it was interesting to notice though that the spacer from the mainshaft had the start of grooves worn into it where the seal sits and that it was quite pitted with rust and crud undoutedly the seal was ripped by the spacer, has anyone else had this happen? it seems to me that if the spacer was made from stainless steel it couldnt rust and cause the seal to get eaten in this way any comments apreciated and if enough interest i might get some spacers made.



sick 2000 drze

by the way my 2002 will be here on 13th december why couldnt the problem happen after that date

Tom it looks like joedrze had the same problem and has blown his motor aswell,can you let me know on the s/steel spacer front, cheers damage

So this has happened to at least two different poeple. I can probably have some made.


Never had this problem but i took the sprocket cover off from when bike was new as dirt builds up behind it if left on and thus can damage seal.

I kept the chrome chain guide and spacers on though.


01 400S

[just to update everyone i have just been to the engineering shop that i use and ordered a batch of spacers in stainless anyone interested in one they will be here next week.

i will ship worldwide at cost

hope this helps


[ November 28, 2001: Message edited by: dendrz ]

Disregard that last post i just realised i was thinking you were replacing the spacer with one that acted as an extra seal.

[ November 28, 2001: Message edited by: dendrz ]

[i didnt know that the s model was different not having gotten that close to one, the e model has a flat sprocket with the spacer behind it interferance fit on the shaft and the o/d running on the seal

[ November 28, 2001: Message edited by: dendrz ]

Tom I assume you are having the spacer that has the sealing surface on its OD and a groove for an O-ring on its ID. This is different than the shim that the other guy is talking about. I just took mine off and its a fairly complicated part to machine. I also discovered that getting this coller back on without fouling the inner O-ring with sand is not going to be easy. Any dirt in the output shaft splines will end up in the O-ring.


[hi perry

yes that is the spacer that im having made, the shop that is making them said no problem at all, although i wouldnt like to try!




Just to be clear, are the parts we are talking about:

23 Seal

39 O ring

34 Spacer

Is it the spacer that you are having made?


Ash, that helps :)

So the spacer is common to all Drz models and the only thing missing from that illustration is that shim that Perry refered to if we use certain makes of 14T sprocket, correct me if i am wrong.



thanks ash yes 34 is the one


tom :)

just another observation for everyone and please any comments apreciated, these seals seem to be an achillies heel ive read and heard that if you overfill the oil the seals can blow, we already are talking about rust and there is also the problem of the possibility of crud getting in.

i dont want to get stuck out again, certaintly not on a rallye or in the middle of nowhere, i will from now on carry a seal on me and box spanner to get the sprocket off, however the screws on the plate that guards the seali had to get off with an impact driver which is ok in the workshop but not on the trail my solution to this i think would be to change the screws for allen screws preferably stainless ones then job done in a few minutes on the side of the road. comments please as to whether this is a good idea or not?

There are a number of things that can make seals fail only one of which is corrosion of the spacer. Mud, sand, water, pressure washing, and never washing can all lead to the problem. If you ride in mud a lot checking that seal daily is not a bad idea. Another thing that can help is washing your bike after a heavy mudding and then ride it around to dry things off before you put the bike up. Usually seals start to leak before they totally fail, which is the time to replace them. Sometimes something will get wrapped around the shaft and cut the seal. If corrosion is the problem it is not going to be fine one day and then poor out oil the next. Only thing I can think of is something cut the seal and made it fail immediately. Also the overfilling theory might have some merit but I would not think that is would cause such a bad leak as to pump all the oil out on a single ride. The seal has a retainer around it to keep it from popping out so somebody has done their home work. This is the first bike I have seen with that feature. An oil pressure light might be the best insurance.


[ November 28, 2001: Message edited by: perryg114 ]

[ November 29, 2001: Message edited by: perryg114 ]

spacers are here and ready, ive had a limited batch made anyone want one just contact me £16 each i will ship worldwide

With a dry-sump engine which the DRZ has, is it possible to "overfill" with oil... wouldn't the engine when started cold, just pump all that oil up in the tank which would overflow at the vent line? My understanding is that all the bulk engine oil is kept via the pump up in the frame tank, not in the crankcase. Tell me where I am wrong... Urge

That is a good question. I would think that if there is no overflow line in the top of the frame that if you overfill the excess oil would end up in the crankcase. If you overfill the crankcase then it will come out the crankcase vent. I expect there is an oil passage at that output shaft bearing and when the seal goes all the oil gets pumped out. On a wet sump splash fed engine there is no oil pressure on that seal.


Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By Markl5557
      I am currently running 10w 40 Belray non synthetic and I want to switch to full synthetic amsoil .... is it ok to switch from regular to synthetic? I have read it’s not safe to go from synthetic to regular can someone explain if it’s safe to go from regular to synthetic!? Thanks !
    • By RockyMtnMark
      Good Morning,
        Last night I measured my valve clearances for the very first time (I know...) on my DRZ400S.  It's a 2002 and I've owned is since 2011.  I bought it with t's got about 15,000 miles on it and most of it's miles these days are on dirt.
      Intake specs are 0.10-0.20 mm.  Exhaust specs are 0.20-0.30
      My intake valve clearances are in spec, forgot to write them down.  My exhaust valve clearances are between 0.1778 and 0.2032 which is slightly out of spec.  They are no more than 25 microns out of spec.  My question is, do I really need to shim these?  Will this kind of out-of-spec cause performance, mechanical, or other losses?  As far as I can tell, I'd have to buy a whole shim kit which is like $80.  Thanks!
    • By Zach440
      Selling my 2009 Drz400sm. Been a great bike but it’s time to let go . Not looking for any trades - spring is just around the corner ! Located in northern Virginia . Cash only $4200- willing to negotiate I have some wolfman luggage options available as well. Love to make a package deal for someone 

      -11640 miles . Mild off-road never wrecked.
      -Oil / filter changed every 1500 miles
      -New did chain , brake pads , front sprocket at 10400 miles .
      - valves checked and within spec at 10,000
      - jetted with JD kit and 3x3 mod
      -doubletake mirrors
      -waterproof usb wired and located next to Speedo
      - drc large foot pegs , barkbusters with integrated turn signals . 12oclocklabs tall delete with upgraded circuit board
      -thumpertalk case savers
      -sergeant seat (amazing) and Clarke 3.9 tank (190mile range )
      - fog lights wired in so they shut off with high beams
      -Shorai lithium battery
      -led headlight

      - stock gas tank and seat will be included

      The bike is dirty in photos and I apologize my water is currently disabled outside due to freezing temps . Radiator guards and skid plate NOT included but can be for some extra $$. Rear tire could be replaced but front is fine .
    • By tplayer100
      Currently have a 2000 drz400s work stock suspension. From my understanding this is the worst suspension the drz ever came with without even rebound damping adjustment. Therefore I'm looking for a upgrade. I'm seeing three approaches to take. First being a newer year s model suspension with dampening adjustment. A SM model USD forks and triple tree or some USD forks and triple tree from a rmz. So if you were going to upgrade what direction would you go. I currently ride off-road mostly but I do have some 17s for on road with as well so have to keep that in mind. Thanks
    • By drzvfr
      I did the fix last night and took some pics and notes to make this easy on people that haven't done it and want more detail. Please chime in if you think I've missed something.
      Required Tools:
      Set of Allen wrenches
      #3 Phillips screwdriver
      small flat head screwdriver
      8 & 10 mm sockets
      13 mm open end wrench (I needed this to remove my skid plate)
      snap ring pliers
      gasket scraper
      compressed air
      Required Parts:
      New clutch cover gasket, Suzuki Part # 11482-29F00
      Tube or can of RTV sealant
      Oil filter and oil (if you plan to change the oil)
      1. Remove your skid plate (if you have one). I have a Tonn's skid plate and it was in the way.
      2. Remove right side radiator cover.
      3. Unbolt the rear brake lever. This will require removing a cotter pin on the backside of the bolt, and then the bolt itself. I was able to swing the lever far enough out of the way without completely removing it from the bike (see pic).

      4. Drain the coolant. This requires removing the radiator cap and the small bolt on the water pump, which has an aluminum washer on it. I rocked the bike from side to side to get most of the coolant out of the bike.
      5. The oil, two options here. You can either drain the oil and remove the oil filter or you can do what I did which is lay the bike on its left side to keep the oil from pouring out of the engine when you remove the clutch cover. I still removed the oil filter so I could clean the clutch cover with brake clean after scraping the old gasket off.
      6. Loosen the hose clamp on the coolant hose that attaches to the top of the water pump and fold the hose out of the way.
      7. Remove the water pump cover and the clutch cover by removing the bolts holding them on. Note that some of the bolts are of different sizes so keep track of which hole you pulled them from. Also, not all of the bolts need be removed, see the pic below.

      8. Remove the old gasket from the clutch cover and/or the engine with your gasket scraper. I then cleaned the clutch cover with brake cleaner as it was fairly oily.
      9. With your snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring from the plastic gear on the clutch cover seen here:

      10. Remove the plastic gear.
      11. Push out the metal pin and remove the washer underneath as seen here:

      12. With a screwdriver or whatever your preferred tool, remove the “E” clip as seen here:

      13. After removing the “E” clip push the water pump shaft out of the clutch cover.
      14. You will now have the part in your hand that needs fixing. Remove the porcelain gasket at the bottom of the shaft by blowing it with compressed air. Don’t not pry it with a screwdriver as it could damage the gasket. Mine was stuck fairly well so I sprayed some WD-40 on first to loosen it up.
      15. If you used WD-40 clean the shaft and gasket with some brake cleaner and then apply the RTV sealant to this area (I reused this pic as its perfect):

      16. Push the gasket back down flush on the shaft wiping away any excess RTV that may flow out.
      17. Reassemble the shaft into the clutch cover in reverse order as listed in steps 9-13.
      18. Place your new clutch cover gasket on the engine and then place the cover back onto the bike.
      19. Put the bolts back into the clutch and water pump cover and tighten equally. I could not find a torque setting for these in the manual so I snugged them evenly.
      20. Put the oil filter or a new one in the bike and put the oil filter cover back on.
      21. Re-attach the brake lever and tighten the bolt to 21 ft lbs. Be sure to install a new cotter pin on the backside of the bolt.
      22. If you drained your oil, refill the crankcase with the proper amount. If you didn’t drain the oil be sure you have enough in the crankcase from oil lost from removing the clutch cover.
      23. Let bike sit for 24 hours to let the RTV set up before adding coolant.
      24. Re-attach the coolant hose to the top of the water pump and tighten the hose clamp.
      25. Fill the radiator with a “Silicate Free” anti-freeze and put the radiator cap back on and tighten the radiator cap screw.
      26. Put the radiator cover and your skid plate back on the bike.
      27. You are done, go ride!
      This post has been promoted to a wiki