Water Pump Seal Issues?

I'm in the middle of replacing the seals and bearings on my 2001 DRZ water pump. Bought it new in January and probably has less than 150 hours on it. I was wondering if anyone has had their pump go out so quick. Also still looking for a good online or mail order source for parts. The dealers around here (Ft. Lauderdale area, almost all Powersports) have terrible parts departments.

Mine weeps around the bearing seal. I'll probably end up replaceing it this winter. Not sure if this is "normal" maintenance or not.

I have experienced similar seal problems with a KLR650. It turned out to be silicates used in AUTOMOBILE antifreeze. Pay the $$ and buy premixed coolant specifically for bikes...Honda has a good one, there are others, add water wetter type additives. End of problem, end of boiling

Mine leaked too. I tried to replace the o-ring between the case and the pump but couldn't get one so I sealed it with RTV. Didn't help so I put some stop leak in and the problem went a way for now. It looks like they use a poor design at that joint. One small o-ring with a bolt at the top and bottom is not really secured.

Well it's leaken again. When I had it half way apart before I couldn't get the pump off because (I think) there is a bigger gear on the other end?

Do I have to pull the side case cover off?

Anyway it doesn't look like the pump seal is leaking because that part fits on the side case. If the pump seal was leaking wouldn't you get water in your oil? From what I could see with out pulling the whole thing apart the leak is coming from the O-ring between the pump out put to the side case seal.

Any input on this would be appreciated.

You do need to pull the side cover off to remove the water pump. The driving gear is on the inside of the cover.

I think mine is leaking from around the shaft seal. It looks like water could move past the seal and out of a weep hole w/o going into the oil supply. I would guess some water is getting into the oil but the amount is so small that it does not really regester.

If I get bored this winter I will replace the seal and the O-rings, along with wheel bearings, dust seals, tires, tubes. . .

I had a leak, tried the quick fixes and they didn't work.

I took the side case off and basically replaced every seal; The oil seal just next to the bearing, the funny looking spring loaded Seal on the shaft, the rubber/teflon seal on the inside of the impeller, and the oring on the cover.

Although it is a pain to pull the side cover off, the whole job cost about $30 and it worked.

Thanks Kevin, I'll look into the parts soon. I don't want to spring a leak in the middle of baja.

I had the same problem.....it was caused by using automotive antifreeze......Suzuki warrantied the repairs and advised me to use premixed motorcycle approved coolant.....no more problems after that.....good luck


Now that I think of it I did add some preston when I boiled over in Carson City. Thanks for all the info guys. I'll be heading down to the Suzuki dealer this week end.

I never used any other coolant in my bike. I think the dealer made up the story about the coolant. They may be right on the potential damage by the wrong coolant, but, it certainly didn't cause my problem.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By Bgringo
      I've read a lot of threads about this but still haven't found exactly what I'm looking for.  I'm pulling my 2004 DRZ400S out of storage sometime this week and getting it ready for the season.  I live at 9,000 ft, but my first ride of the year is probably going to be at around 5,000 ft.  I was going to pull the 145 main jet I'm running and put in the 150 adjusting the needle from the 2 clip to the 3rd, then re-jet once I got home.  I already have the extended fuel mixture screw in place so I started thinking that I should just run the 150 jet set up and adjust the fuel screw to compensate for the higher elevation where I'll be doing most of my riding.  I will be going down in elevation for rides until late May or June depending on snowfall, but riding on the street when I'm able.  Are there any disadvantages with this?
      I'm new to posting on this forum, so please forgive me if I didn't get the right search words in and there is already a post about this.
    • By Markl5557
      I am currently running 10w 40 Belray non synthetic and I want to switch to full synthetic amsoil .... is it ok to switch from regular to synthetic? I have read it’s not safe to go from synthetic to regular can someone explain if it’s safe to go from regular to synthetic!? Thanks !
    • By RockyMtnMark
      Good Morning,
        Last night I measured my valve clearances for the very first time (I know...) on my DRZ400S.  It's a 2002 and I've owned is since 2011.  I bought it with t's got about 15,000 miles on it and most of it's miles these days are on dirt.
      Intake specs are 0.10-0.20 mm.  Exhaust specs are 0.20-0.30
      My intake valve clearances are in spec, forgot to write them down.  My exhaust valve clearances are between 0.1778 and 0.2032 which is slightly out of spec.  They are no more than 25 microns out of spec.  My question is, do I really need to shim these?  Will this kind of out-of-spec cause performance, mechanical, or other losses?  As far as I can tell, I'd have to buy a whole shim kit which is like $80.  Thanks!
    • By Zach440
      Selling my 2009 Drz400sm. Been a great bike but it’s time to let go . Not looking for any trades - spring is just around the corner ! Located in northern Virginia . Cash only $4200- willing to negotiate I have some wolfman luggage options available as well. Love to make a package deal for someone 

      -11640 miles . Mild off-road never wrecked.
      -Oil / filter changed every 1500 miles
      -New did chain , brake pads , front sprocket at 10400 miles .
      - valves checked and within spec at 10,000
      - jetted with JD kit and 3x3 mod
      -doubletake mirrors
      -waterproof usb wired and located next to Speedo
      - drc large foot pegs , barkbusters with integrated turn signals . 12oclocklabs tall delete with upgraded circuit board
      -thumpertalk case savers
      -sergeant seat (amazing) and Clarke 3.9 tank (190mile range )
      - fog lights wired in so they shut off with high beams
      -Shorai lithium battery
      -led headlight

      - stock gas tank and seat will be included

      The bike is dirty in photos and I apologize my water is currently disabled outside due to freezing temps . Radiator guards and skid plate NOT included but can be for some extra $$. Rear tire could be replaced but front is fine .
    • By tplayer100
      Currently have a 2000 drz400s work stock suspension. From my understanding this is the worst suspension the drz ever came with without even rebound damping adjustment. Therefore I'm looking for a upgrade. I'm seeing three approaches to take. First being a newer year s model suspension with dampening adjustment. A SM model USD forks and triple tree or some USD forks and triple tree from a rmz. So if you were going to upgrade what direction would you go. I currently ride off-road mostly but I do have some 17s for on road with as well so have to keep that in mind. Thanks