you oppinion on best mods for your money

i just got a 2002 drz44s {and i love it}

i have been hearing differing oppinions on what the best mods are.

i do not have acsess to a dyno {ours if hooped}

so what do you think are the best cheap mods for "blind" tuning of my baby???

thx simon

sould read "drz400s"

and "ours is hooped"


Rejet, 3x3 hole in airbox, And tailpipe restrictor dlilled our. Total cost about 20$ incl. a hole saw for the muffler mod. Cant go wrong with these mods. Do a search for each mod and you will find step by step info. take care erik

thx eric

Best mods for me were

Replacing trailwing tires with more aggressive Dot tires.

Gearing 15/47 (or 14/44)

Unbolt bar weights footrest rubbers reflectors.

Remove sidestand switch and loop wiring.

Disconnect clutch switch loop wiring.

Mod tailight, remove ext and signal light extensions.

Skid plate (made my own)

Bar risers up and forward (made my own)

Remove countersprocket cover (keep chrome chain guide in place).

End cap mod after run in time.

Still got to rejet, its in the works :)

Always a work in progress :D


Congrats :) .. you will be very pleased with this bike. Do the airbox mod, and pipe. Better yet, buy an aftermarket pipe like BigGun... more power yet and 6 lbs. lighter!!

Hows the riding on the island? I'm in Coquitlam area.

The most noticable change right off the batt would be the jetting and airbox mods. 3x3, 150, 27.5.

You can always open the exhaust more..but do the jetting first.. I Think you will be plenty happy without the extra noise.

The mods that made the biggest improvement (in order) to my bike were:

1.14/47 sprockets

2.Get rid of stock tires and get some DOT knobblies. I ride 70% off road; it feels a totally different bike with just these two mods!

3.Removed spacers from signal lights (I actually took the rear signals off and mounted clearance lights at $3.50 CAN). Broke mine first trip out, just lost my footing while sitting and dropped the bike.


4.Which leads to this on FILE DOWN THAT SHARP CASTING RIDGE on the front inside of the shift lever.

5.Being s short ass I shaved an inch of foam off my seat, saves the embarrassing falls in 3.

6.Re-jetted 150 main 27.5 pilot, 3x3 air box mod and end cap mod.

7.WER skid plate. Fits great, looks great but I wonder if it really offers that much extra protection. It covers the frame rails and has a couple of bars that come out the front, which will stop big stuff hitting the expensive parts.

8.Chop off the bulk of Black plastic taillight / license plate section and remove the spacer from the taillight. Lifted the plate right under the taillight.

9.Removed all those needless extras: peg rubbers, reflectors, bar end weights, side stand switch and clutch switch, chain guard, front sprocket cover (put the metal piece back on) right mirror and safety stickers.

10.Just fitted Carmichael bend Renthal bars, fold down mirror for left side and in the process of ordering a case saver.

11.Future: Ignition and clutch covers.

12.I think that’s it- for now


Pro Circuit T4 exhaust system. Get the full headpipe and exhaust. This will add about 5 hp as well as save at least five pounds. Take out the seat snorkel on top of the airbox and get a Uni filter. The exhaust and uni will run you about $600 total and you will have a new bike.

Go down one tooth in the fron sprocket and go to a 47 tooth in the rear.

These are the best things you can do for the money and ease.

After you get bored with these mods you can go to Thumper Racing and get a big boar 436 kit.


Hi Simon

Start with tires, then a skid plate and move on from there. I would ride the bike for a little while before you make any performance mods.

Tires make the biggest difference. Dunlop 606 rear and Pirelli Rallycross MT21 front are DOT approved and wear well. I've raced with these tires and they work very well. Make sure they are fresh. I prefer to race with Dunlop 756 front and rear.

Change your gearing and upgrade to a heavier duty chain. 13 tooth front sprocket and 47 tooth rear sprocket. Any heavy duty O-ring chain will do. You will get more response from this then you will get from trying to increase your horsepower. I went from 92mph top speed to 87 mph(which is still higher then most dirt bikes). Keep the RPM up and you will avoid the lull in power which can occur when the RPM drops. The bike runs great with the stock pipe, carb settings and air box.

Get your suspension set up for your type of riding and weight. I had my bike resprung for my weight and set the stock suspension on the stiff side. This will make the bike feel lighter, turn better and the bike will take the bumps better.

I have also added Tag bars, MSR skid plate(which I bought after I dented my frame and almost took off my water pump), Barkbusters, and MSR radiator guards. Take off anything you don't want to break. It's cheaper to buy aftermarket parts now then to buy replacement stock parts plus you can save those DOT parts for inspection when your tag expires. I don't have any more stock parts, the trees and rocks took care of them.

Oh yeah, protect yourself if you plan on riding offroad!!! I say "Scars are better then tattoos." but I still wear as much gear as possible.

I found that going to a 48 tooth rear sprocket ($14.00 cost) was a great change from the factory sprocket. It still allows you to ride on the road without reving the bike out but is much better for trails

Suspension, suspension :)

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