setting sag

I was told by the bike shop that I should ride the bike for a while then set the rear sag. So after 150 miles, I'm getting ready to set it. I'm not sure how many MM to set it. I guess I'll measure it then reduce the difference. I weigh 225. Should be 95mm I would think, since I'm a fat ass.

Do I need a ring adjuster tool to lossen the ring? It look like I can just get a long punch in there to lossen the top one with a few good hits. Then adjust the bottom, then tighten the top and give it a few good hits again this a punch to secure it.

Or should I go out a buy a ring adjuster? How much are they? Seems silly for a one time deal. Correct me if I wrong.


01 WR426 Uncorked, YZ throttle stop, Grey wire cut, BK mod. Do I dare change to YZ timing. (soon)

Its probably worth the 10$ or so for the tool to avoid the frustration, lost time and skinned knuckles. Any motorcycle store should have one. 95mm is what I am told is the correct level.


The Missile

'99 WR400F

Airbox Lid - gone

Throttle Stop - shorty!

Plastics/Tank/Seat - One Industries

Street Legal


The sag is normally set in the range 90-100 mm depending on your personal preferance. If you can't reach the sag you want with the stock spring then you will need to get a heavier sping. At you weight you should be able to get there, but you don't want to compress the spring past about 1/4 it original legnth. If you find yourself half way through the threads on the shock body, you sould consider a heavier spring.

My 0.02 worth.

I recently set my rear sag. I have the

proper tools but access was a problem,

so I started with the punch method.

After a few revolutions (that's about

100 hits with a punch!), I removed the

air filter, air box to carb manifold and

adjusted it with the spanner through

the airbox. So much easier--worth the

time to take apart the airbox if you

need to do a lot of adjustment.

If you spray a little wd-40 on the bottom of spring you can turn spring by hand to adjust spring. Worked pretty good for me.


I've never had a problem using a long chisel unless the locknut was grossly overtightened. And then a spanner won't cut it.


MX Tuner

A long screwdriver and a hammer to loosen the lock nut, then turned the spring by hand. Reached in fromt he right rear (moved the mud flap out of the way). Make sure you mark the tightning nut with a marker or something so you can count the revolutions. Not too sure about 90-100mm. Does that figure to around 3 3/4 inches? Thats what I set mine to. Once the spring is tighter, you need to decreas your compression dampner and increase your rebound a few clicks. Personal preference.



It's your world, I just play in it!

2000 WR400, WB E-Series w/7 discs, stock header, Thumper bar risers, GUTS Racing seat, Cut Grey Wire, WR timing, Standard mods.

Bulldog....3.75" is exactly 95mm. Perfect race sag setting.

I was going to finally adjust the suspension on my bike this weekend now that it is a little broken in. I really need to lower the seat height a little as I am only 5'8" and have trouble reaching the ground.

For those of you who are vertically challenged and weigh about 180-190 fully loaded, were you able to set the bike up with proper sag and still reach the ground. If not what kind of changes did you have to make. I am trying to maximize my available time and not have to do this more than once. I also would like to know if I need to save up some $$$ for other parts.


How come nobody talks about front sag on

a dirt bike? It makes such a difference in

roadracing to get your forks right. But

I've seen no guidelines for dirt bikes.

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