Suspension Mods

Where to start, I'm a six foot 205lb. rider and i can't stand the stock susp. i bottom out all the time and my back is taking a beating...Should i just start with stiffer springs or what...Set the sag on the rear end which helped but the forks are taking a thrashing when i ride...We rode bear creek at lake greeson(Arkansas) this last weekend flash flood rain and all...

maybe a revalve, or you could go the whole nine yards and get a turely incredible suspension....but that will cost ya

Send your suspension to Scotts' and be done with it. About $450.00 for springs and revalve ( total for front and rear). The best $450.00 you could spend on the DRZ. $450.00 in suspensin work will help your riding a lot more than $450.00 in motor work. :)

I just mentioned Scotts' off the top of my head I use Hitchcock Industries in Englewood Colorado (suspension man from A-Loop Off-Road)

Race Tech, WER etc. are all good, the point is just do it, do it, do it. If you think the DRZ is fun now wait till you have the suspension done. You'll be surprise as to how fast you can ride through the trees and over the rocks, rutted down hills no sweat. Have fun and ride like you're breaking wind. Oops, I mean ride like the wind.

DRZ Suspension,

Good topic!

The DRZ has excellent components, they are just set up really soft.

We are talking a Conventional 49mm Showa fork with a 28mm cartridge and 28mm base valve, with a 12mm piston rod. Top notch components!!

The fork is set up with a check plate instead of a shim stack on the compression side of the midvalve piston (active valving). Once you install a real shim stack here, this improves bottoming resistence dramatically.

Once you sort out the active valving and the passive valving(base valve), install the proper fork springs (get rid of the progressive springs)and you figure in the flex benefit of the conventional fork design, you have an excellent offroad fork!!

The shock is a 50mm Showa unit. The one item that I beleive needs to be addressed is to have the shock body hard coated. It comes stock uncoated, the untreated aluminum oxidizes and contaminates the shock fluid very quickly. (rub your finger across freshly polished aluminum and see the black oxidation, imagine that being your shock fluid. When the body is "hard coated" a coating of T3 teflon is impregnated into the aluminum body.

Also without the hard coating, the bore of the body will wear sooner. The process is only about 75.00, it is cheap insurance for the body of the shock.

The shock has a 5.4 spring which is good for a 180-190# rider.

I have seen articles in the mags where they throw 4 grand worth of Ohlins suspension on the DRZ, not needed, this bike has great components IMHO!!

Take Care, John

[ December 19, 2001: Message edited by: John Curea ]

john, sounds like you really know your suspensions. so here is my question for you: technically how does the S vary from what you described (which i assumed was a E) if i weigh 135lbs, and i have the stock S suspension, where is my money best spent? the springs don't seem to stiff, they actually feel ok to my untrained butt.


What year "S" model do you have?

I beleive the '02 models came with similar suspension components to the offroad only models.

Take care, John

you could also change the stock fork oil , add a heavier oil, or you can try to add some 5W fork oil to the stock setup to lessen bottoming, also have you adjusted the bottom (compression)clickers.

I am 200Lb, i flushed the oil with 5W, set oil level to 4 inch from the top (with spring out), and happy with the front susp.

do a search on front fork , you will find all kinds of goodies.

Before you spend $$$.


The "S" model('00-'01) to the best of ny knowledge has damper rod style forks. The emulator valve made by race tech is a good modification to the damper rod style forks.

They quite easy to install and do provide additional damping for your forks.

**Very cool looking S model!!!

Take Care, John

[ December 21, 2001: Message edited by: John Curea ]


The installation is pretty basic.

1.Take the fork cap off

2.Remove spring

3.Drop in emulator

4.Put spring back in, tighten fork cap

5.Ride :):D

** Read instructions first, there is some minor adjustments(according to the rider preference) to the emulator before installation.

The adjustment is limited to the preload adjustment. I would just check the sag (95mm reccomended).

Take Care, John

I took the easy way out and sent it to a company here in California called RG3. They know alot more about this than I do, did a great job, and they are just good people. You might want to give them a call and let them dial it in. It is worth the money.


thanks. and i just added this little bracket after offing a signal:

so john, if i can bug you once more, i feel i am fairly adept mechanically, but i have never done any fork/suspension (or other hydraulic) work myself. should i put the emulators in myself? do i need to do anything to the shock to compensate?


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