Respected Mechanic's view on oils

As most of you know, I'm currently going through transmission problems with my DRZE. While I was at the shop yesterday, I decided to get the mechanic's view on oils. He builds alot of engines, from racing 2&4 strokes to utility fourwheelers. His views towards oils where as follows:

Fist off he said he will always recommend a "bike specific" oil. No matter what brand, as long as it is made for a bike. He personally prefers conventional oils over synthetics. He said that's just his opinion, no physical proof of the conv. oils being any better. But, he also said that from a "wear" standpoint, he hasn't seen any benifits of synthetic oils. He said "synthetic oils are for people who want to stretch mileage between oil changes." He also said, that he would trade out frequency of changes for quality of oil. He said he will let some of his racers run a $2.99/qt. oil if they will change it after every moto, before he will let them run a $10.99/qt. oil if they are only going to change it every 10 hours. He said the main difference in "bike" oils and "car" oils is that a "bike" oil is designed to handle the contaminents of the wet clutch and still provide lubrication for the top end. He said any oil will provide ample lubrication for the tranny gears themselves. He said one of the main determining factors of picking an oil is how that oil affects clutch feel.

One note though: He also said that there is no way oil contributed to my transmission failure. He also was impressed with the condition of the top end of my bike. I have always ran Mobil 1 15w50 with X1R.

I'm not trying to start another "oil debate". I just thought I would throw this information out there. Take it however you like. :)

:) This sort of back's up what I said in your previous thread, in that the clutch is the major difference, also something else that I believe is true is that bike specific oils have a better resistance to threshing by tranny gears as opposed to car oils, but this only comes into play at extended oil change intervals.

Enough of that anyway...I hope you get your tranny probs sorted ASAP and as cheap as poss :D

Good Luck

Thanks, I'll post a short update in that thread.

Thanks man. :)

I agree, 100%. Frequency is the key.

Cal I just have one question.

What oil are you going to run when you get it back together?

I bet you are going to say Mobil 1.

Thanks for the update.

cal, there is the possibility you got a lemon. no matter how good a product, every once in a while they make a lemon. what you have described is pretty catasrophic for the age/use of the bike.

EZGZ, I still haven't decided. I am going to try a "bike" oil, just don't know what brand or if it will be synthetic or conv. By the way the top end looked, I wouldn't have any reason to use anything else. But I want to try something different. I've used Mobil 1 for so long, I don't really know much about the "bike" oils that are available. I need to do a little research before I make my decision. If I can find the "bike" version of Mobil 1, I'll probably use that. I'm not going to use $10/qt. oil though. I plan on changing my oil every 4-8 hours from now on.

The mechanic saying he liked conventional oils better kind of threw me for a loop. In cars, I've noticed differences in conv. and synth. oils. When I started using synth. oil in my '69 Camaro, it immediately started idling about 300 rpm higher. In my '93 Z28, it jumped from 20-22mpg(city) to a consistent 24 mpg. My Splash went from 19mpg to 21mpg. So something is different about synth. oils. In all vehicles, I went from Castrol 10w40 to Mobil 1 15w50. And as far as engine wear goes, all I have to evaluate is my DRZ and it is perfect. In my opinion(for what it's worth) I think it will be hard to beat Mobil 1 15w50. But I'm going to give "bike" oils a chance.

synthetic oils are much thinner than a petroleum oil of the same motors have much larger oil pumps than bikes,obviously,which will change idle rpm from one viscosity to the next.synthetics will reach critical parts of an engine faster than conventional oil,due to their thinner properties.that is the advantage of a synthetic over petroleum based oils.this is an advantage in v8s because the oil will get to the rockers faster at start up.synthetics also resist thermal breakdown,and wild changes in viscosity with temperature.due to the design of bike engines,i,personally don't think this would be a major issue,and also because they are so much smaller. the way i look at it,petroleum based oils have been used in every engine for the better part of 100 years--they work. synthetics are just to damn expensive for me!

hey Cal,

I was buzzing up and down big sandy hills today on my WR and once in a while I had to jam down on the shifter to stay afloat. I was thinking about how tough these bikes are. It's surprising the trannies don't bite the dust more often. Sorry to hear about your problem.

:) Do you guy's get Motul oils over there???

If you do their rang of Bike specific oils are very good, from semi-synth to Two different Fully synth.

I ran this in my R1 and had no troubles at all :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now