how do you adjust the clicks

The rear clicker is easily accessed via the hole in the right side panel (the small screw on the gas cylinder). The front clickers are in the bottom of each fork leg. VERY easy adjustment for both ends - just a flatblade screwdriver.

The front compression adjustment is just as easy - the top of each fork leg.

Rear compression requires either a C-spanner OR a long blunt instrument (such as a centre punch or metal rod) and a hammer. From the right of the bike, loosen the locking nut, adjust the adjuster nut as required then tighten the lock nut.

Take it from me, a mechanical doufus: It's an easy job (altough you proably won't get the settings right the first time).

I am new to this wonderful suspension to. Don't be afraid to experiment. You will know when you get it right. I suggest you go to your favorite trail and ride it a couple of times concentrating on what it feels like. Then ajust the screws at the top of the fork in two clicks and the top of the rear in two clicks. Then ride the same trail or track a couple time to get a feel for the difference it made. Right it down on a peace of paper and make notes on how it felt. That way you are comparing apples to apples. I also suggest you go the same on the rear shock as you do on the front forks to keep things in balance. It should have an arrow right on the side of the fork to tell you which way to go for harder or softer. Enjoy! :) I have tie rapped a small peace of hose to my chest protector and keep a small pocket screw driver in it so I can make ajustments on the trail whenever I feel like it.

Forgive me for sounding dumb, but how exactly does one adjust the "clicks" on the forks and spring. I read the manual and it seemed like there was nothing to it. The spring adjustment however required a "special tool". I have read that if I tune the suspension to about 6 clicks out it will stiffen up quite a bit.

Plasmasurge is close, but no cigar.

There are 3 adjustments on the shock. A rebound damping adjustment (small screw at bottom of shock viewable from the right side of the bike- near the linkage), a compression damping adjustment (small screw near gas chamber at top of shock viewable looking through hole in the side cover from the right side of bike), and the spring preload adjustment. The preload adjustment is what requires using the spanner wrench or just stick a long flat head punch back in there and smack it with a hammer like most people do.

The forks have only two adjustments- there is no spring preload adjustment on the forks. The compression damping adjustment screw is on the bottom of the fork leg. The rebound adjustment is on the top of the fork leg.

This all applies to the E and kicker off-road models only. If you have a pre-2002 S model, you have fewer adjustments. I think the 2002 S model suspension has been updated though.

Do you have a manual? It should clearly identify all this stuff.

Cetris get's the cigar*** I wonder how many others caught that? The compression for the forks is on the bottom which is the exact opposite of the rear. These engineer types sure are sharp on details. Thanks :)

Thanks, the forks sound easy enough. As far as the preload in the rear, how exactly is that done? If I'm correct, a more compressed preload results in a stiffer ride? When I click the compression and rebound must they both be exactly the same number of clicks out? Must I adjust a certain amount of preload for each few clicks on rebound and compression? Must the forks and the sprink have pretty much the same number of clicks? Or perhaps the forks were not as soft as the spring to begin with and don't require that much adjustment. I'd hate to screw up and have the bike hop all over the place.

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