Problems with Rekluse and Tusk clutcth plates..

I have about 6 rides on my Rekluse with the tusk clutch plates. I figure my rides average 2-3 hours, so I have about 12 to 18 hours on the clutch.

After the install of the Rekluse, I did the 20 minute break-in and had to add another .055" Rekluse metal clutch disk (for a total of 3 disks to get it within the .030" to .042" install gap). I set the gap closer to .030".

I also istalled the softe spring at the clutch perch because I do single track more than motocross as per Rekluse recommendations.

Everything worked great and I love the clutch. However, when I changed my oil, I noticed a lot of debri in the filter. This bike ('99 yz 400) always has a clean filter. After the last oil change (I change after every 3 rides), I decided to look at the install gap and it was past the .042" tolerance.

Taking the clutch apart, I noticed the metal plates are blue'd and the clutch disks are below the thickness spec per Yamaha. The spec is around .115" to .121" for disk two and I measure my disks to typically be around .109". I measured .119" for the leftover new Tusk clutch disk I had from the install.

I have the external perch adjuster and believe I set the Engagement point correctly (.5" at the end of the clutch lever at 4500 rpm), but I didn't have a tachometer, so I guestimated the rpm, this might be my problem. I've got a tachometer/hour meter on order, so I should be able to do it right next time.

My riding style is to surf the torque curve, meaning I don't rev it hard, I usually ride a gear up. On single track, I'm usually in 2nd or 3rd. 1st is too slow for me. I've been riding for over 25 years and usually one of the fastest ones in my group when I ride single track (unless I'm riding with my old riding Cal Poly Penguins riding buddies, then it's a free for all...:ride:). Not bragging, just trying to give info.

My question:

1) Anybody experience excessive wear on the clutch disks with a Rekluse clutch?

1) Has anybody else had a problem the the Rekluse with a non-stock clutch?

2) Should I try a Barnette clutch, or go with stock?

I guess you are running Shell Rotella right? If not, then you need to.

I check my installed gap every 3-4 rides to make sure all is well. Usually once the new fibers are "worn in" the installed gap doesn't change. I'm willing to bet that you checked and adjusted the installed gap (after the first few rides) and thought the fibers where worn in and they probably where not.

Riding with the Rekluse often temps people to run (for example) 3rd gear when they should be in second. Lugging the motor in the wrong gear will eat the clutch very quickly.

One other thing, Tusk clutches are some of the finest fibers made. I've had the best luck with them. I've been using the Rekluse for a couple years now, and been really happy with the Tusk.

I use Maxima motorcycle oil.

You've had luck with the Tusk? It's such a cheap clutch, I think I paid $35 for it thru Rocky Mountain. I just figured a cheap clutch wouldn't last. Have you used a Barnett?


I would recommend that you stick with Yamaha OEM clutch plates. I never had any luck running aftermarket. This is also what Hinson recommends you use with there billet clutch baskets. I'm selling my 98 YZ400F and still have a brand new set of Yamaha OEM fiber plates, steel plates, springs, and gasket. They will fit 98-99 YZ400F. PM me if your interested in them. :ride:

I use Maxima motorcycle oil.

You've had luck with the Tusk? It's such a cheap clutch, I think I paid $35 for it thru Rocky Mountain. I just figured a cheap clutch wouldn't last. Have you used a Barnett?


Get rid of the Maxima oil. Rekluse recommends Shell Rotella. I use the 15W40, but other Rekluse riders use the Rotella SAE 30. Either way, both are good oils.

I've never tried a Barnett. I use the Tusk. :ride:

Get rid of the Maxima oil.Every 250F and 450F I have owned has had the clutch slip when I started useing Maxima.

I had almost the same exact problem when I first installed a Rekluse in my 426. I was also using Tusk plates.

The root of my problem I think eneded up being using the wrong oil. I was using Castrol Actevo synthetic blend stuff and i ruined the clutch. I realized the mistake after the first couple of rides but it was to late at that point. i called rekluse they actually recommend Checvron Delo 400 in 4 strokes with the rekluse and the Shell Rotella oil in the 2 strokes. but they said in a pinch either will work better than anything else. I got about 20 or so hours out of the rekluse with those plates after I flushed with delo 400 oil after every hour or so of riding for a few times.

I was scared to go back to the Tusk plates but there are alot of people I know of that run them with rekluses and have no problem. i instead went with a set of the EBC Carbon plates and I have about 35 hours including 2 harescrambles and an enduro on those and they seem to be holding up great. Next set will probably be a set of the tusls though for the price I don't think they can be beat. I have also heard they are made in the same factory as EBC but I am not sure if there is any thruth to that story. So one else may chime in with an answer to that. Good luck :ride:

Wow, oil makes that much of a difference? Okay, I'm going to drain the maxima out and try the Shell Rottella. I called Rekluse a while ago and they recommended to not use the Delo 400 because of an additive change.

I'm really bumbed about this, I love the clutch. I think I need to change my riding style a little. I like to lug the engine single track because the bike handles so much better. I think I'll also lower the engagement RPM from where I had it. Finally, I'll give a stock clutch a try.

Thanks for all of the great input!


While installing the new Yamaha clutch plates and using Shell Rotella T oil, I decided to install a new clutch cable since I'm using the perch adjuster.

When disconnecting the old clutch cable from the clutch arm on the engine case, I noticed the torsion spring was not completely disconnected from the clutch arm (as per the directions in Rekluse installation kit). I had disconnected during my original install, but the end hook of the spring manage to catch another feature below the clutch arm and was still applying pressure on the clutch. I'm positive this is what caused the clutch to fry.

I rode it and checked it after 1 hour of single track riding and the install gap was perfect, it didn't change one bit. After 5 hours it still feels good, I can feel the clutch engaging just above idle, which is much different before. I'll check the install gap again soon, but I'm certain all is good now.

Thanks for the help!

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