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The Master 3x3 Post

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Since I've been getting a few requests a week to e-mail the re-jet instructions word document (offered to send it to someone in old post that lives on) I thought I'd throw this post together. It is perhaps the one stop shop for 3x3 mod info: the master 3x3 post :ride:

The 3x3 Mod

So what is the 3x3 mod anyway? Well, this mod is basically re-jetting your carb and allowing it to run to its full potential. This mod can be done by even the most newbie of wrenchers out there. 3x3 refers to the size of hole that you will need to cut into the top of your airbox where your snorkel currently is. Don’t worry, you are not carelessly risking getting water into your engine by removing the snorkel. The bread and butter of the mod is the taper of new needle which you will get with your kit.

Jet kits can be found through the TT here

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=341221&highlight=drz+jetting+kit+store

Scroll down to the bottom to find the right kit for your DRZ

If you purchased a S kit for SM by accident don’t worry it will work (different jetting specs are used, just ask!)

There are some great instructions outlining the procedure and here are two:

bayoubikebruiser’s post is a nice one (Good Job BBB)

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=334539

Note that BBB followed the TPS sensor wire back and detached from the clip it there rather than removing the TPS off the carb.

Another read is the attached word file (which i convereted to pdf and can be found here for your convenience) which has ‘been around the block’ to say the least.

Sample Jetting recommendations (note: these are different for different elevations and different bikes)

SM

- 150 main jet (155mj for full exhaust system)

- 25 pilot jet

- 2nd clip on needle from top

- 2.5 turns out on fuel screw

S

- 140 – 142.mj (bigger for exhaust)

- 25 pilot jet

- 4th position from top

- 2.5 to 3 turns out on fuel screw

Burned’s fuel screw setting method:

with the bike warm and idleing turn the fuel screw in till the idle drops/misses.then go back out till the idle peaks/smooths.

this should happen between 1 and 3 turns out.

if you end up at less than 1 turn you need a smaller pilot jet.more than 2.5 (or 3 turns on a cv) you need a bigger pilot jet.

choose the appropriate size and retest.

The 25 Pilot jet part number for TT is:

N224.103-25

So… now you have the info that you need, get to it! Your bike will sound better and rip a little faster; get ready to grin!

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Good Post :ride:

You forget a pic of the 3X3 air hole for those that haven't seen the end result.

Here is mine, it is actually a 2.75 x 3.25

Which still nets a 3x3

AirBoxMod.jpg

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nice work BUBONICON. :ride: still got that fs i sent you?did you try a different mj yet?

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Thx Guy's; hoping we can make it a sticky (wink, wink, nudge, nudge)

-Mickeydee PM sent

edit:

here is my 3x3 in all its glory. A thanks should go out to my bud Casey for making it 'purrfect' :ride:

p1020498cj8.jpg

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Just remember guys....a 3x3 hole is the minimum size the hole should be...not the maximium. Mine is missing the entire top....just like Eddies bike and the build off bike.

This is one of those cases where more is better.

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on that note a good test to see if your bike would run better with a bigger hole (with a bike with considerable modification) would be to take the air filter access cover and run the bike.

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Which is the preferred kit for an "E"?

the Moose Stage 2 or the FMF Power Up?

If they are the same, which has better directions? (bonus stickers? :ride:)

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It may or may not run better with more air. But it will certainly not run worse.

The opposite can be said of airflow is too restricted.

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Which is the preferred kit for an "E"?

the Moose Stage 2 or the FMF Power Up?

If they are the same, which has better directions? (bonus stickers? :smirk:)

Neither is for the FCR carb, I believe you need the James Dean kit from TT store, or ask Eddie for the best needle and jets.

Neil.

:ride::banana::busted:

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Neither is for the FCR carb

Now I am way confused, both of the descriptions say it is for the "DRZ-400E"... :busted::ride::banana:

It can't be that difficult, could it?

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Why the difference in jetting between the 's' and the 'sm'????

Are they not the same engine? I know the 'e' is different.

BJ

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Hmm, seems to be some trouble with the hosting method. Will work on that asap.

Am I the only one having troubles with the pdf link.

follow-up: so it seems that anywhere i try to host the file requires me to pay. To get around this here is my yahoo briefcase login info so that you may get access.

l: bubonicon420

p: thumpertalk

here is the site

follow-up +1: the link and file is now properly hosted (cheers to Moto_Islo). Use this method as an alternative i suppose :ride:

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3BeeJay3 - Ha, i have the same exact question. Why are there differences between the two? Does one make more power (s or sm)? Are the carbs the same? Can anyone answer this? :banana:

Thanks! :ride:

EDIT: I can't spell. Fixed it :busted:

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Are the carbs the same?

No, the "S" and the "E" have different carbs. I was wondering the difference between the two kits available from TT for the "E"... Which one of the kits is better?

I forgot to mention the third kit available for the "E". The James Deane kit...

Which to buy...?

:ride:

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Thanks for the Mirrors for the PDF guys. Gusaroo, from what I've heard the James Dean kit is the one thats perferred but I would ask one of these guys that have the carb or send a PM to eddie.

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or send a PM to eddie.

I figured I'd do that.. There is so much banter about jet kits on this forum, that a search of the topic does not help much at all.

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