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1990 KX250 Project W/ PICTURES

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Ok, since my threads are are scrambled and envolve overlaping issues, I decided to make one thread to use for this bike.

Here's the deal. Its a 1990 KX250, and I got it for practically nothing. But its rough.

Here are some pictures:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51634284@N00/158211115/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51634284@N00/158211117/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51634284@N00/158217035/

Is this a worn/groved basket???

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51634284@N00/158211127/

Broken front engine brackets:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51634284@N00/158217034/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51634284@N00/158217033/

Anyone know if these plates are good or bad?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51634284@N00/158217032/

Whats this and why is it leaking oil?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51634284@N00/158217031/

Some engine sludge w/ a lot of fine metal shavings. (I wiped it out of the bottom of the case, where I pulled the clutch out.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51634284@N00/158217028/

Anyone know how to undent this? (Fill with water and put in freezer)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51634284@N00/158211122/

Clutch and Stator

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51634284@N00/158211120/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51634284@N00/158211118/

I'll keep you all posted on all the progress. PLEASE GIVE ME ANY IDEAS OR SUGGESTIONS.

Thanks,

Kaleb Arellano

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Yes that is a worn and grooved basket. looks pretty bad probably needs to be replaced.

Broken engine bracket is an easy fix.

Wouldn't know if the clutch plates were still good without measuring them.

The thing leaking oil is the power valve cover. Common two stroke problem

no big deal.

The metal shavings are more than likely from the cluth basket.

Wouldn't worry about the dent in the pipe. It is not bad enough to cause any issues.

The rust on the flywheel is pretty normal for these bikes if they are neglected. You can probably clean it up and it would be fine.

I think yout biggest issue is the clutch basket. That might be hard to find for a reasonable cost. As long as the bottom end is in good shape you should be able to freshen up the top end with piston rings and new gaskets for about $150.

Bike looks like it is in pretty decent shape as long as you could get that basket and the bottom end is good.

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What mesurements would you need off the plates to know if they are good or bad? Or should I just replace the whole clutch? How do you fix the leaking power valve? Just a gasket?

Thanks

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clutch basket either needs replaced or what i have done is file it smooth, work great and haven't had any issues after, as far as the clutch plates, friction plates, you will have to mic them to find how worn they are, hard to tell with pictures.

you need to take the stator off and check the ignition pickup, i would bet it's rusty too, clean off with steel wool, also clean the magnets

pipe looks fine shouldn't be an issue

front engine brackets.. replace

oil leakage round the push rod for the kips system doesnt look that bad looks like seapage, check the oil drain plug, lot of times it's stripped, easy to do

looks like a nice project and should have a nice bike with a little tlc

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Yes that is a worn and grooved basket. looks pretty bad probably needs to be replaced.

Broken engine bracket is an easy fix.

Wouldn't know if the clutch plates were still good without measuring them.

The thing leaking oil is the power valve cover. Common two stroke problem

no big deal.

The metal shavings are more than likely from the cluth basket.

Wouldn't worry about the dent in the pipe. It is not bad enough to cause any issues.

The rust on the flywheel is pretty normal for these bikes if they are neglected. You can probably clean it up and it would be fine.

I think yout biggest issue is the clutch basket. That might be hard to find for a reasonable cost. As long as the bottom end is in good shape you should be able to freshen up the top end with piston rings and new gaskets for about $150.

Bike looks like it is in pretty decent shape as long as you could get that basket and the bottom end is good.

:applause: Mikedabike pretty much hit it on the head. But don't put the pipe in a freezer, it could expand too much and split the welds. You can look in the back of some moto magazines and find people to send the pipe to that will fix that, if it bothers you that much.

Also, that leaking Power valve cover is where you will need to unbolt the power valves to clean them. but to clean them the right way (which really should be done if you want the bike to run it's best) you will need to pull the cylinder off and remove them. Be sure to pay attention as to how they came out cause they will need to go back in the same way. This may be hard to tell if they are all gummed up. Do yourself a favor and go buy a reapir manual either on ebay or from Kawasaki. It will show you how to completely rebuild the entire bike.

Like I stated in one of your other posts, take a flat file to that clutch basket but, just get the ridges until they are smooth and even. That should get you by. Also, don't B.S. around with the old clutch, who knows what the bike has been through, go by a new clutch for it.

One more thing, while you have the cylinder off cleaning up the power valves and ports, put a new top end in it, for an extra $85.00 why waste your time not to have it run good. Next thing you will need is some good two stroke oil, either Amsoil at 44:1 or Honda HP2 at 32:1, happy ridding! :D

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Oh, one more thing that you have not talked about yet. Be sure to grease your rear shock linkage. This is something a lot of people over look. I know I did, until it cost me over $400- to replace mine because they dried up.

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The rear wheel and swingarm have some side to side play does that mean new bearings will be need? Or will I just need to clean them up?

Thanks

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No man, if you have side to side action going on, you need to replace the bearings for sure. Just think about it this way, you will have a new bike when it's all said and done!

I had a 1990 Kx250 and it was a great bike, so if you got the bike dirt cheap, don't get discouraged, you will have a nice bike once your done. :applause:

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Thats what I thought, Anyone know what a new complete bearing kit costs, and were to get it?

Also what year clutches will work with my bike?

thanks

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i got a nice bearing set on denniskirk, it is the all balls set or moose bearings (same thing), i got it for my kdx but they had good deals take a look for your bike. I think it came with linkage, swingarm and lower shock bearing for like $75 which is really good price.

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Are there any other high wear parts to a clutch besides basket, plates, springs? If so what are they and what do I look for?

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I am about to order the bearings. What is involved in swaping them out?

Let me know

Thanks

You should really invest in a shop manual for a project like this. It'll answer this question and pretty much every other one you'll have.

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WARNING!!!!! WHEN REPLACING THE BEARINGS, MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT LOOSE ANY OF THE LITTLE NEEDLES!

It is an easy fix. jump down under the bike while it is on a stand and unbolt the linkage. Have a 2x4 or 4x4 there that you can set the rear wheel on once it is loose. The rear shock holds tention for the swingarm.

One thing that kept happening to me was when I replced the bearing and was trying to put the pins back in, the little needles would fall out all over the place, drove me friggin crazy! If needed, you might could use some wheel bearing grease to put in them and hold them in there better, but, they will try to stick to your fringers so watch out. :applause:

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UPDATE

Ok, I got alot of parts as listed bellow:

- rear wheel bearings

- swingarm bearings

- linkage bearings

- upper shock bearing

- complete gasket and oil seal kit

- dirt skins

- fork oil

- tranny oil

- radiator fluid

- clutch kit (on its way)

- fork seals (on its way)

- engine brackets (on its way)

Still need:

Clutch basket and more i'm sure.

Anyone know if newer fork gaurds will work on these older bikes?

Thanks

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Once you get it together take it to the track and ask someone with a newer bike to let you see theirs to see if it fits. I would not think there is a big difference in that part.

Also, make sure you buy a cable luber and lube your throttle cable and clutch cable to make them work like new for when you are ready to ride. $15.00 and you should be good. (make sure to disconnect your throttle from the carb)

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