oil leak - drive shaft?

I did a long (90 mile, all day) ride in the desert last week and at the end of it I stopped and there was a lot of oil, mostly on the left side of the bike. When I got it home I took off the various bash guards, cleaned it up and checked for where the oil is coming from.

It looks like its seeping out around the large nut that secures the front sproket onto the drive shaft. When I reached up to test the tension on the nut it was so loose it turned freely to finger touch.

Not surprisingly the last service I had performed included changing from the street gearing (I have the S) to a more dirt friendly 14-48. (That was many rides ago, so it's not that the installer just forgot to tighten it at all).

My qeuestions;

is the nut being loose alone enough to cause the leak, or is there a seal that is likely blown?

is there something that is supposed to lock the nut onto the spindle? There is only a very flat washer behind it, and of course the gear itself is held onto the shaft with splines. (Seems to be on good.)

what recomended course of direction to repair?

I did a long (90 mile, all day) ride in the desert last week and at the end of it I stopped and there was a lot of oil, mostly on the left side of the bike. When I got it home I took off the various bash guards, cleaned it up and checked for where the oil is coming from.

It looks like its seeping out around the large nut that secures the front sproket onto the drive shaft. When I reached up to test the tension on the nut it was so loose it turned freely to finger touch.

Not surprisingly the last service I had performed included changing from the street gearing (I have the S) to a more dirt friendly 14-48. (That was many rides ago, so it's not that the installer just forgot to tighten it at all).

My qeuestions;

is the nut being loose alone enough to cause the leak, or is there a seal that is likely blown?

is there something that is supposed to lock the nut onto the spindle? There is only a very flat washer behind it, and of course the gear itself is held onto the shaft with splines. (Seems to be on good.)

what recomended course of direction to repair?

Bad news.

"When I reached up to test the tension on the nut it was so loose it turned freely to finger touch."

That must mean that whoever did the sprocket change didn't bend the flat washer over the nut, like he was supposed to?

As a minimum, you'll need to replace the seal behind the sprocket. I assume you had enough oil in the engine that you didn't do any damage to it?

Search this forum for "sprocket nut" and read all about it - this seems to be fairly common for this bike. The local recommendation is to use RED (permanent hi strength) loctite on the splines and nut when you reassemble it. I haven't done this yet (mine is still tight, and under warranty), but I'll probably use RED loctite on the splines, and BLUE loctite on the threads, just to make it a little less work to remove the nut to change sprockets in the future. Make sure you tighten the nut to the correct torque, and bend that washer over, just in case.

sleeve might be jacked up too.... there are stainless ones online listed in threads talking about that seal. common problem and relitively easy fix.

Normally just the nut loose is not enough to cause an oil leak so I suspect more then 1 problem. There is an O ring inside the seal spacer that may need replacement. The seal spacer itself may be warn where the surface contacts the seal and the seal may be warn. Usual course of action is to replace all 3 items. Then use Loctite on the splines and nut and a new lock washer, 80 ft lb on the nut and you are good to go. MANY MANY posts on loose nuts. And this post will probably start another argument about do or don't use Loctite. Use Loctite. PM if you need procedures.

I purchased a second hand DRZ and had the same problem you had. Lucky for me a riding partner noticed before I lost too much oil.

With my bike I found I was able to use the locktite and reassemble to the correct torque and I haven't had any oil leaks since. With the nut finger tight oil can find its way up the inside of the shaft and out onto the sprocket.

I just hope the bush inside the gearbox is OK.

Anyway as the others suggest do a search you will find a mound of information. It is an all to common problem.

PS thanks guys you have helped me a great deal.

AS a secondary precaution...I keep a line drawn across the nut with a sharpie marker. This allows me to do a quick visual to see if anything has moved (or you could use a little dab of paint). and yes, lock tite!

You wrote: There is an O ring inside the seal spacer that may need replacement. The seal spacer itself may be warn where the surface contacts the seal and the seal may be warn. Usual course of action is to replace all 3 items.

The seal spacer sounds like it bolts, what about the seal? Do I have to do anything drastic (open cases!) to replace it?

BTW: Thanks for all the resopnses.

The spacer is #36 in the fiche. It does not bolt on. The retainer, #28, is bolted on. It (the spacer) is held in place by the pressure from the sprocket which in turn comes from the counter shaft nut #39.

You do not have to open your cases to replace either the o-ring (inside the spacer), or the oil seal #23.

Link to Ron Ayers Fiche for the Transmission schematic

The seal spacer with the "O" ring inside just pulls off the shaft with the sprocket off. The seal has a retainer over it that is also exposed with the sprocket off. Remove the retainer (2 flat head screws, impact screwdriver needed) pry out the seal. Tap in a new one, replace the retainer, push on the seal spacer, replace the sprocket, nut etc.

I have an oil leak after replacing the sprocket. After reading this thread I now have the parts ordered and the repair sounds easy. Thanks for the info. Gotta love this site...

Max

Be VERY careful while prying out the seal with a screw driver. A friend on mine offered to remove it and caused a scratch in my side case, which may cause premature wear on the seal.

Instead, drive two parkers into the seal on opposite sides. It will go right through the spring if done with care. If they are sharp and short, they will never touch anything but the seal.

You may now wiggle and pull on the two parkers with a pair of pliers.

Presto!

Noppy

Be VERY careful while prying out the seal with a screw driver. A friend on mine offered to remove it and caused a scratch in my side case, which may cause premature wear on the seal.

Instead, drive two parkers into the seal on opposite sides. It will go right through the spring if done with care. If they are sharp and short, they will never touch anything but the seal.

You may now wiggle and pull on the two parkers with a pair of pliers.

Presto!

Noppy

What is a parker Noppy?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now