Quick electrical question

Greetings. I am upgrade my R. Again. I am tired of guessing what my latest brake-light / turn-signal electrical problem is and am replacing my E-Line dual sport "black box" with real electrical components: real handlebar switch module, real regulator / rectifier, real battery, etc. I am also adding a keyed ignition switch (NOS CB350 ignition switch) for more security.

Question: the Ignition Control Module is powered directly from the altenator. To give the extra security I want can I route power to the ICM from regulated 12v (battery) power instead?


I'm not sure that I quite understand your question, but I'll try an answer anyways. The ignition does not rely on 12 volts, or anything having to do with the lighting coil. There is a separate coil on the stator that makes a little over 100 volts AC that is used to produce the spark. Just connect to the kill switch wire. Connect it so that when the key switch is off, the kill switch wire is connected to ground. It's not a lot of security since all you have to do is cut or rip out the wire to the switch and it will start, but it's better than nothing.

Is the "security" you're talking about related to the failure of electrical parts? Like, running the ICM off a regulated power supply would keep it from burning out?

Like cleonard said, the ICM is powered by the exciter coil which is one of the circuits on the alternator (stator). You'd need a regulator power circuit outputting over 100v (not 12v) to do what I think you're suggesting.

The exciter coil sends that high voltage to the ICM which stores it until the pulse generator tells the ICM to send it on to the coil.

Re "security", I am only looking to be able to disable the bike, e.g., disable the ignition so that the bike cannot be started without a key.

Re the suggestion that I hook up the kill-button lead through the ign switch such that it is "connected" / closed with the key off, that is not possible with the ignition switch I have. The switch I have has all leads "open" when the switch is off and the key is removed.

Maybe I cannot do what I want to do, given the fact that the R's ICM is using 100v from the exciter coil, vs 12v battery. What I wanted to use the ignition switch to do was to power a relay I am installing that will send 12v battery to a fuse panel which will power my lights, horn, etc.

Yeah, its more complicated than is necessary but I want to have a "real bike" electrical system vs the E-Line black box setup I have now. The E-Line black box contains an integrated (very small) battery, volt reg, turn signal blinker. The black box has started acting flakey and I am sick of trouble-shooting, hense I am scraping it and going to proven components.

The key switch you are talking about using can be EASILY bypassed as it will have to be mounted in an easily accesible/viewable location. Your safest bet is to wire up a your own toggle switch and HIDE it way up under your tank, or somewhere very inconspicuous. You will probably have a handlebar switch that you will use most often and the hidden switch will stay ON. Only when you need security, turn OFF the hidden switch and then the handlebar switch will be overridden and the bike will be dead to anybody not knowing where the hidden switch is. Furthermore, there will be no way to bypass the switch (without dissassembling the bike) as the wiring for it will be hidden with the switch. No chance of lost keys, and more secure than a viewable key switch.

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