DIY stator rewind on XRR?

[timbanditos]

Hey guys, I ended up pulling my stator a little early to check my valves so I figure I might as well wind it while its out. I found wire online pretty easily, but I'm wondering what stores, if any carry the magnetic enamel coated copper wire? Anybody have luck with any chain store?

[firsthere]

 I happen to be winding my sons xr650r right now also. It already has a BD reg/rec and wiring, LEDs, and a 12v nicd battery pack.  After researching, I'm planning to experiment with parallel and series wiring to see which has the best results as this one will be DC only. 

[firsthere]

Here are some pictures of the final stages on this wind. The 6 poles are wound with 6 wraps each of 18g. coated wire following the same clockwise/ counterclockwise pattern as the original 4 posts. The new red and blue wires are 18g also, punched thru the grommet  and slid thru the wiring sleeve. 

[firsthere]

The final connections at the stator are crimped and solderer with two layers of shrink tube as insulation. The 18g wire on its own barely fits in the clamp so do the slice connections outside of this area.

 There are now 8 wires coming out of the stator,

2 (with the plastic connector) are for the pickup.

2 (with black boots) are for the 2 post ignition windings.

2 (with bullet ends) are the stock 4 post windings. 

2 (new red and blue 18g. wires) are from the new 6 post windings.

The new windings Ohm at .5, same as the stock lighting wire so there are no shorts in the circuits. The epoxy will go on after testing on the bike.

[timbanditos]

8 hours ago, firsthere said:

The final connections at the stator are crimped and solderer with two layers of shrink tube as insulation. The 18g wire on its own barely fits in the clamp so do the slice connections outside of this area.
 There are now 8 wires coming out of the stator,
2 (with the plastic connector) are for the pickup.
2 (with black boots) are for the 2 post ignition windings.
2 (with bullet ends) are the stock 4 post windings. 
2 (new red and blue 18g. wires) are from the new 6 post windings.
The new windings Ohm at .5, same as the stock lighting wire so there are no shorts in the circuits. The epoxy will go on after testing on the bike.

Thanks for the post and pics, my 18 gauge wire is being shipped along with my trailtech reg/rec to DC on the way and seeing your work helps me confirm what I'm doing! Did you use any specific tools to punch the red/blue wires through the grommet? Also, when you say "crimped" were you talking about the stator end to the copper magnet wires, and if sow what type of crimped connector?

Edited December 3, 2018 by timbanditos

[timbanditos]

Okay guys, my windings look like crap! My question is, do they look like they will charge a battery? Also, I don't have any electrical tools, any way for me to test my setup prior to reinstall?

[firsthere]

 The last 2 wraps get difficult to control?,  as long as the windings don't stick out to far and contact the flywheel side it looks good! 

I just use a radio shack Multi-meter ( almost daily.) set it to Ohms, mine was 0.6 on the 6x6 winding.

 Are you planning to wind the last two posts?

[timbanditos]

 The last 2 wraps get difficult to control[emoji51],  as long as the windings don't stick out to far and contact the flywheel side it looks good! 
I just use a radio shack Multi-meter ( almost daily.) set it to Ohms, mine was 0.6 on the 6x6 winding.
 Are you planning to wind the last two posts?

Yes, I'm going to finish winding the last posts, I'm gonna keep them tight as possible and connect to a trailtech reg/rec for DC power. Not sure how much I really need, just want to charge stuff and add turn signals maybe more lights. Any tips on fishing through that grommet or the connections to the magnet wire?

[firsthere]

  Weave the wires through the posts to the same area as the factory exit. Secure best you can where it leaves the last post, you can add epoxy later to hold it permanently.  Cut and sand about a 1/2" of coating off the magnetic wire ends where you want the splice. There is no room in the clamp for the connections so do them before the clamp. I used a butt splice connector (without the insulation) to crimp and solder the wires together, though you could just solder them without it. Don't forget to put the shrink tube or insulator on the wires before soldering.  

Use a slightly larger drill than the wire your using, make holes in the grommet outside of the sheathing but inside the where it meets the cases. Be sure not to nick the other 6 wires. Cut a small slit in the sheathing just above the grommet and push one wire at a time up and thru. It takes a little coaxing to get past some sections. Once its all back together use silicone and tape to prevent water getting inside the sheathing. 

 After you test it, remove the stator and lightly coat the new windings with epoxy. (I just use JB Weld)

[timbanditos]

  Weave the wires through the posts to the same area as the factory exit. Secure best you can where it leaves the last post, you can add epoxy later to hold it permanently.  Cut and sand about a 1/2" of coating off the magnetic wire ends where you want the splice. There is no room in the clamp for the connections so do them before the clamp. I used a butt splice connector (without the insulation) to crimp and solder the wires together, though you could just solder them without it. Don't forget to put the shrink tube or insulator on the wires before soldering.  
Use a slightly larger drill than the wire your using, make holes in the grommet outside of the sheathing but inside the where it meets the cases. Be sure not to nick the other 6 wires. Cut a small slit in the sheathing just above the grommet and push one wire at a time up and thru. It takes a little coaxing to get past some sections. Once its all back together use silicone and tape to prevent water getting inside the sheathing. 
 After you test it, remove the stator and lightly coat the new windings with epoxy. (I just use JB Weld)

Thanks for all the help first! I was wondering if a drill would work on the grommet, can't wait to finish this up and test it out!

[timbanditos]

Well, I got the winding done and wires fished through the harness. Tested ohms with an analog tester at 200k ohm and nothing registers when I test just the magnet wire so I think that means the wind is good. I assume I need to solder then test through the wired connections. Can anyone confirm? Also, curious how much stripping I need to do on the enamel coating, i scraped it with a razor and used a little 1500 grit to sand it down.

[firsthere]

Sand the enameled wire until all the coating is removed so the solder adheres. 1500 is a little fine try something like 220 grit.

Compare the stock winding resistance to your new ones when all finished up, they should be about the same.  The meter maybe set a little high as there should be a reading around 1 Ohm. 

Edited December 9, 2018 by firsthere
thought

[timbanditos]

Sand the enameled wire until all the coating is removed so the solder adheres. 1500 is a little fine try something like 220 grit.
Compare the stock winding resistance to your new ones when all finished up, they should be about the same.  The meter maybe set a little high as there should be a reading around 1 Ohm. 

First here, I think I'm at about 1 ohm per my sweet analog gauge, so soldered and shrink wrapped my connections. My wires are partially on the inside per attached pic, do I need to route those on the other side or is it irrelevant? Can't wait to test and confirm this is working so I can epoxy that wire, its wanting to loosen up at the end.

[firsthere]

 That is the cup side of the flywheel. I needs to be totally secure and below the bolt heads as that will be spinning next to it. I would double check with putty for clearance. Grab some plumber putty set it on the wires and install the case, then remove and see what ya have.

[timbanditos]

On December 9, 2018 at 6:09 PM, firsthere said:

 That is the cup side of the flywheel. I needs to be totally secure and below the bolt heads as that will be spinning next to it. I would double check with putty for clearance. Grab some plumber putty set it on the wires and install the case, then remove and see what ya have.

After posting I realized, there is no way I should run those wires on the outside, flipped them to the other side of the poles. Just waiting to determine what battery I'm going with so I can connect the reg/rec and start the bike to test run it. I really want those coils epoxy coated to keep them from unwinding.

[firsthere]

If the resistance is ok then go ahead and epoxy them. I did that on my 1st 650r wind and everything was fine, it's just a precaution.

 You could also test the new windings by connecting them in place of the stock stator lighting circuit bullet plugin, (with the ac regulator) to see how the headlight works. (if not an LED)

Edited December 11, 2018 by firsthere

[timbanditos]

Just posting a follow up reply on this, I was able to get my stator back in after using jb weld to seal up the coils I would, that stuff was thick like putty so it didn't look pretty but I tested it and it worked today. Used the trail tech reg/rec, then wired directly to a cig 12v power and usb power port combo and got DC power to power up my GPS unit. I wanted to say thanks for all the tips and help along the way!

[timbanditos]

Some follow up photos showing before, then my winds and finally my power port working. Still need a dash setup. Also, curious how much power I'm making, not sure if I need to add a battery to my DC system.

[firsthere]

Thanks for the follow-up and glad to hear it worked out well!

 So far, my sons bike will run 70w and 55w incandescent test bulbs, along with the minimal draw LED brake and blinkers. The NiCd battery pack was pretty much dead and charging at the time also. I have grip heaters on the way to add another 30w so total load around 160 watts. My project ended up being wired in parallel (all DC),  I didn't mess with trying series wiring since it worked out so well.

 As for the question of needing a battery, I read it helps smooth/buffer the LEDS but have no idea how or why. You might look into a 12v NiCd pack as it fits nicely on top of the air box with velcro, (and it won't ruin the battery if it goes dead unlike the lead acid type). As a drawback they don't have the capacity of the L/A battery. 

  I'd like to see the dash setup when you finish. Our bike needs an inexpensive basic speedometer, is that what you are running?

[timbanditos]

I'm just running the cheap Endurance speedo from trailtech, it was $65 I think, very basic. With the extra power I may add led lights and run my phone for navigation in addition to that old Garmin Nuvi I have. Totally stumped on a dash right now as it will vibrate less if I can mount to frame v. Handlebars, but that creates some mounting challenges.

8 hours ago, firsthere said:

Thanks for the follow-up and glad to hear it worked out well!
 So far, my sons bike will run 70w and 55w incandescent test bulbs, along with the minimal draw LED brake and blinkers. The NiCd battery pack was pretty much dead and charging at the time also. I have grip heaters on the way to add another 30w so total load around 160 watts. My project ended up being wired in parallel (all DC),  I didn't mess with trying series wiring since it worked out so well.
 As for the question of needing a battery, I read it helps smooth/buffer the LEDS but have no idea how or why. You might look into a 12v NiCd pack as it fits nicely on top of the air box with velcro, (and it won't ruin the battery if it goes dead unlike the lead acid type). As a drawback they don't have the capacity of the L/A battery. 
  I'd like to see the dash setup when you finish. Our bike needs an inexpensive basic speedometer, is that what you are running?

Edited January 9, 2019 by timbanditos