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anyone use moose stator?


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My stator gave up the ghost a couple of months back. Got a Moose replacement for about 1/3rd the cost of a OEM stator. Works fine. See my sig for bike year/type.

does it come as a direct replacment for stock? (ie: does it come with pulse coil, source coil and wiring?)

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did you swap it with a know good one?

no: here's what happened: may: removed cover to retrieve lost valve shim. Re-installed cover. Washer/bushing that keeps starter idler gear from wearing cover fell in. 2000 kms later: washer has been sliding around, held inplace by the magnet, beating the poles off the stator and imprinting itself into the rotor liner. Today: removed stator, took it to a re-winding place for an opinion (3 or 4 poles are blackened with flakey varnish, tips of poles are bare metal-probably rebuildable, no wires damaged by impact). Guy says it's fried but rebuildable. Suzi here wants $549.00 (cdn$) for a replacement stator! Havent been able to track down another with which to swap. My rotor has dents and scratches in it but they don't look to be too deep, can it be turned smooth again? Does the rotor come as part of the flywheel or is it separate?

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ah,well thats bad for sure.

the moose set up works fine.

Yeah, one forward, 2 back seems to be my chosen pace. ?

glad to hear it's ok, just ordered one from tt. Hope the magnet is ok. Will install stator and check clearance and, if it looks ok, will fire it up and check voltage. Any idea what the airgap is between the magnet and the stator? Any idea where to get new magnet/rotor?

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On small engines with adjustable armature air gap, standard practice is to set it using a business card. For electrical performance the smaller the gap the better but obviously some gap and tolerance is needed. I'd say about 0.25mm is good. Knock off any high spots you find on the beat-up surface and it should be fine. Yea, you really have to stop droping hard parts into an engine.

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On small engines with adjustable armature air gap, standard practice is to set it using a business card. For electrical performance the smaller the gap the better but obviously some gap and tolerance is needed. I'd say about 0.25mm is good. Knock off any high spots you find on the beat-up surface and it should be fine.
- cool, that's better news than I have received all day!!
Yea, you really have to stop droping hard parts into an engine.
:ride: no sh$t!! ??
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i have flywheels if you need it.the dents will be ok as long is there is no contact.couldnt say on the air gap.
thanks for the offer of the flywheels. will get back to you if I need one. I dont think mine is that bad, I may be able to save it. ?:ride:
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