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quick question.....need an answer

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in the absence of an impact driver, take up the slack of the fit of the screw driver in the head of the screw, hold down as tightly as you can and hit the head of the screw driver with a hammer several times. It performs the same as an impact driver. Use an old screw driver, it tends to be hard on tips and handles. The force that is holding the screw into place is corrosion caused by electrolytic action between the 2 types of metal. Use anti-seize to prevent this.

Another twist on this "poor mans impact driver" approach is to use a hex screw bit and crescent wrench (or vice grips)

First, hammer on the distorted screw head to flatten it a bit. Use a punch if need be, to direct the blows. Then, hammer *in* the correct size screw bit into the screw head for a tight fit. You have just made it "harder" through work hardening. :ride:

Then put the adjustable crescent wrench around the screw bit, and while lightly hammering on the bit, apply rotational pressure with the wrench. If you need to, hammer harder. :cry:

I used this technique on the CV carb float screws, they came right off. :thumbsup:

Bob

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Anyone working on mechanical devices should have a bottle of valve grinding compound in their tool box. Dip the tip of your screwdriver in it before tackling those tough screws. It's like using an impact driver without the stress being applied to the attachment points. You can buy it at any autoparts store. Also, be sure that the tip of your screwdriver isn't worn. They do wear out over time and it affects their fit into the fasteners.

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well, got my DRC light on this morning, still no luck on the chain guard screws. I tired to use my small, 22" long channel locks on a screwdriver which only resulted in a trip to sears for a new screw driver. I think i'm gonna cut a slot in the screw, then if that fails I'll just cut the head off....or I'll cut the little tabs off. good ideas guys, I'll try some of em out before I try my way.

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