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Sag Sucks

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I checked my rear wheel sag today (06 S) by TT method, and it was 2-1/4 inches static and 5 inches race sag. Supposed to be under 1 inch static and under 4 inches race. That sucks! Was the factory or dealer responsible?

Well, I am responsible for not checking it the day I brought it home.

I adjusted it. Had to tighten the rear spring by five full turns (!) to get the race sag down to 4 inches.

The static sag only dropped to 1-1/2 inch.

Made a big improvement in handling. Previously, on twisties, when I would accelerate out of a tight curve I would feel the rear end "sit down" (a lot). It no longer does that -- now the rear end stays level and the acceleration pushes forward (as it should).

Kudos to the DRZ forum. :thumbsup:

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I checked my rear wheel sag today (06 S) by TT method, and it was 2-1/4 inches static and 5 inches race sag. Supposed to be under 1 inch static and under 4 inches race. That sucks! Was the factory or dealer responsible?

Well, I am responsible for not checking it the day I brought it home.

I adjusted it. Had to tighten the rear spring by five full turns (!) to get the race sag down to 4 inches.

The static sag only dropped to 1-1/2 inch.

Made a big improvement in handling. Previously, on twisties, when I would accelerate out of a tight curve I would feel the rear end "sit down" (a lot). It no longer does that -- now the rear end stays level and the acceleration pushes forward (as it should).

Kudos to the DRZ forum. :thumbsup:

Hey you can't blame the dealer, they dont know how much all of their customers weigh. Sag is based on your weight so if you are over the weight they set the bike up for (or under) it will be off.

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The dealer has NOTHING to do with the sag. Its set at the factory by Suzuki and is the same for EVERY DRZ for a given rider weight. If you're over or under that weight, your sag will be off. that's why YOU have to set...everyone does...

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I took my bike back to the dealer a few days after I bought it and had them set the sag for me...took about 35-45 min for the guy to do it.....you have to take lots of stuff off to get to the shock. Bike rides alot better though. I'm playing with my forks all this week.

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I figured the dealer wanted a lot of sag. For the showroom, for shorter people that might be looking/buying.

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you have to set your sag yourself. It's no ones fault but the rider. But.. thanks to TT you got er done! :thumbsup:

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Read here once that the DRZ is made for a 6'3" 160 # rider. I never made it to 6'3" and I passed 160 in 8th grade. Apparently I did not like 160 since have never gone back.

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Wow 6'3" and 160lbs thats pretty skinny. I'm 6'3" and 190lbs and people still think im a string bean.

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I took my bike back to the dealer a few days after I bought it and had them set the sag for me...took about 35-45 min for the guy to do it.....you have to take lots of stuff off to get to the shock. Bike rides alot better though. I'm playing with my forks all this week.

shock is fully adjustable without removing anything :thumbsup:

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shock is fully adjustable without removing anything :ride:

Only by people who use a hammer and screwdriver :ride:

Proper motorcycle techs, who work in proper Suzuki dealers, have to use the proper tool

for the job, and that means taking lots of bits off. :crazy:

Neil. :thumbsup::cry::ride:

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It should be noted...

The range of spring adjustment for the rear suspension is limited by it's design spec operating range, not by the apparent number of threads the collar can be cranked down. A large adjustment, or a lot of turns on the collar, can quickly take you beyond the spring's usable adjustment length, despite the appearance of plenty of threads to keep adjusting through.

Static installed spring length is max 10.25 inches, and the minimum is 9.75 inches. This means you only have a half inch of usable adjustment on the spring collar. If you go beyond, your handling with suffer, because you will be outside of the spring's desgin spec.

You need to buy an aftermarket spring, if you find you need to adjust beyond the 9.75 to 10.25 inch adjustment range.

:thumbsup:

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Only by people who use a hammer and screwdriver :ride:

Proper motorcycle techs, who work in proper Suzuki dealers, have to use the proper tool

for the job, and that means taking lots of bits off. :crazy:

Neil. :thumbsup::cry::ride:

That's what they'll tell you just before they get out the hammer and punch

:ride:

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In order to use a spanner, yeah, you're gonna be taking some stuff off and wasting time. Hammer and blunt (flat) end punch works great and no dismantling necessary. Just don't go to town with a hammer and screwdriver or you'll drive that screwdriver right into the soft metal of the adjusting collars.

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That's what they'll tell you just before they get out the hammer and punch

:ride:

Not on my bike they don't, cause they will never see it.

I use a proper spanner on mine, and no disassembly to get to it either.

Neil.

:thumbsup::cry::ride:

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