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Engine Oil Type

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I am going to change the engine oil, and i realize now that i have no 20-40, but I do have 10-40 is this ok? In the manual it shows a bunch of different types of oil on the chart, but then it recommends 20-40. My only other option is 10-30, but I would think that 10-440 is better. Please help.Thanks

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hey a bit off topic but i think it is relevant and i want to know. what is the difference betwene 10w 40 and say 15w 50, i know that 15w 50 is thicker when cold and hot but will it drag more on the engine? do you have to change the oil as often with thicker oil?

thanks

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Just want to put it out there... make sure that the oil you use is made for motorcycles! Regular engine oil is not sufficient for the stress that it will endure inside of a motorcycle engine.

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There's an old military acronym that's appropriate here: RTFM!

On page 3-14, there is a chart that shows the temperature ranges that various oil weights are suitable for. 10w-40 is on the list, and in fact covers a greater range of temperatures than 20w-40 does by design. It will work fine, if it's a good oil.

10w-40 isn't mentioned in the text of the "recommended oil" section on that same page because YamaLube isn't sold in that grade, and they aren't going to recommend any other specific brand other than that. They do give the specific requirements that a oil needs to meet, but they have no control over what some other brand might be at any given moment, so they only recommend their own, and the generic type needed. Frankly, Yamalube is a long way from being the best available, but using it in accordance with the manual and changing it frequently will do an adequate job for you.

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It depends on the weather out there. It shouldn't be a problem, don't switch from synthetic to normal.

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I heard that you weren't supposed to use synthetic oil in these bikes. They said it was because of how the transmission and crankcase use the same oil, and synthetic can make your clutch slip. I know that the older CRF's have two seperate oil chambers because some people don't like to use synthetic in their transmission, but like to use it in the crankcase. I was just wondering if there was any truth to this?

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Oils that conform to the Energy Conserving, Level II (EC II) standard may cause problems with the clutch. Only synthetic oils are capable of meeting this standard AFIK, and that is the source of the misconception that synthetics will cause trouble. Most, however, will not. If the oil is an EC II oil, it will so state on the label in the API Grade circle. It shows this in your manual.

Most synthetic oils are not EC II, and in fact, a good many synthetic motorcycle oils are blended to comply with Japanese Automotive Standards Organization's (JASO) "MA" standard which means that the oil is certified compatible with any correctly built wet clutch assembly. Amsoil MCF, Mobil 1MX4T, and Golden Spectro 4 are three examples.

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the guys at the Yamaha shop recommended Silkolene, so that's what I've been using. I don't see reason in changing the oil every 5 hrs., it's more like 10 hrs. for mine. I would think with the synthetic oil(Mobil 1 motorcycle oil) you could go a little longer between changes.

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hi there, I'm new to the thumper scene, a recently converted 2 Stroke fan. I've used castrol GPS previously so I'm using it again.

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the guys at the Yamaha shop recommended Silkolene, so that's what I've been using. I don't see reason in changing the oil every 5 hrs., it's more like 10 hrs. for mine. I would think with the synthetic oil(Mobil 1 motorcycle oil) you could go a little longer between changes.

I think you will find that Silkoline is a synthetic and much better oil than Mobil 1.

Dwight

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Thanks for the help, I am gonna use 10-40 Mobil 1 Motorcycle oil
That is an excellent oil. The only thing I know of that's negative is that it's a bit expensive.

you mean besides the fact it doesn't stay in grade longer than 4 hours. naw, nothing wrong with that! :ride::thumbsup::applause:

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