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DRZ Problem - Burned or Anyone?

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I have a 2004 DRZ 400s. Since I am the original owner I know the history of the bike. Recently I have been riding the bike to work. My trip is 30 miles each way. A few days ago my bike stalled just as I approached home. I got it started again and made it the rest of the way home (about 1/4 mile). The bike smelled like it had overheated. Even though I ride in traffic I split lanes so I am always moving. My temperature light never came on. I tried to start it again but it would not start. I checked the coolant and it was low. I check for spark & that appeared okay but upon further inspection the plug appeared wet. I turned the engine over with the plug out & water shot out of the cylinder. My brother-in-law & I decided to pull the head off. We were thinking head gasket. Here is the wierd part- when pulling the 4 head studs off we noticed the 2 rear studs were torqued tightly but the 2 front studs were almost loose & very easy to remove. I bought the bike new & this is the first time the head has come off. The gasket was not cracked or anything but it appeared to be leaking toward the front of the head. To make a long story short - do you think I can just replace the head gasket & torque the head properly or do you think I have a bigger problem?

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Do a quick check for flatness of the head and cylinder. If that looks OK just replace the head gasket. Sounds like the total investment is under $50 so even if this turns out not to be the final fix you have not invested that much in the repair. This will at least get it running again so you can do more evaluation. As for the 2 front loose head bolts, I can't say if that is cause or affect.

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Thanks -thats what I was thinking as well. I just wanted to make sure that I did not miss something obvious that I should be checking.

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BTW - I don't currently have a manual for the DRZ. Can someone tell me the proper torque setting for the head bolts?

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Is there coolent in the oil? If so change it a few times to clear it all out.

I'd also check the torque on the cylinder bolts just to make sure they aren't also working their way loose.

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BTW - I don't currently have a manual for the DRZ. Can someone tell me the proper torque setting for the head bolts?

big ones are 18-22lb/ft, little ones are 12-15lb/ft. torque big ones first in simple criss-cross pattern 1/4 turn at a time each after contact until you click.

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Get the e base gasket and put it on while you have things apart. Boosts your compression and gives you more power.

Have to run good gas tho.

Good time for Hotcams too.

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Get the e base gasket and put it on while you have things apart. Boosts your compression and gives you more power.

Have to run good gas tho.

Good time for Hotcams too.

He's right about the base gasket. Do the E base gasket too. And run hi-octane pump gas.

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NO NO on the bolt torque. Head bolts - initial torque 18 ft lb. Final torque 33 ft lb.

The 6mm nuts and bolts are 7 ft lb. You will never get them to 12.

My advise is don't mess with the base gasket. Yes, it will raise the compression but if you are not doing any other performance mods there is no point to it. You will not feel a difference. I use an S gasket on my E because I need to be able to run any gas. I never felt a difference going from the E to the S gasket.

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NO NO on the bolt torque. Head bolts - initial torque 18 ft lb. Final torque 33 ft lb.

The 6mm nuts and bolts are 7 ft lb. You will never get them to 12.

looks like I need to retorque my head bolts. Those were the values my suzi dealer gave me. Should have done a tt search instead. :thumbsup:

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