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1st post, question about drive chain


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Hi guys,

I just picked up a 2000 XR100 for the girlfriend and the drive chain has quite a bit of play in it. I read a thread and a warning in the owner's manual about the chain getting thrown and effing up the engine case.

The chain adjuster is on the second farthest setting.

I'm thinking of just putting a new chain on it and I have a couple of questions.

First, which chain should I buy?

Second, should I move the chain adjuster back in to the first position with the new chain?

Third, the sprockets look okay to me, should I replace them when I replace the chain (as the owner's manual recomends)?

Fourth, if I do move the chain adjuster back, do I use lock-tite on the rear axle nut?

Thanks for the help guys and I am sorry if this is posted to the wrong section of the forum.

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Hi guys,

I just picked up a 2000 XR100 for the girlfriend and the drive chain has quite a bit of play in it. I read a thread and a warning in the owner's manual about the chain getting thrown and effing up the engine case.

The chain adjuster is on the second farthest setting.

I'm thinking of just putting a new chain on it and I have a couple of questions.

First, which chain should I buy?

Second, should I move the chain adjuster back in to the first position with the new chain?

Third, the sprockets look okay to me, should I replace them when I replace the chain (as the owner's manual recomends)?

Fourth, if I do move the chain adjuster back, do I use lock-tite on the rear axle nut?

Thanks for the help guys and I am sorry if this is posted to the wrong section of the forum.

An o-ring chain will last longer and requires less maintanence (no chain is maintanence free though).

Set the chain adjuster to whatever postion provides the proper chain adjustement (your owners manual should specify). The slack in the chain drives where the adjusters should be--not the other way around.

Barring unusual circumstances, always replace chains and sprockets as a complete set.

Don't use lock-tite on the axle nut. Tighten it to the recommended torque. Most axle nuts are self-locking anyway.

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Good advice so far.

I'll add, you replace the sprockets with the chain as the sprocket gets worn to fit the stretched out chain. Worn sprockets will wear out a new chain faster.

Chains need to have slack. If the chain is too tight, it will pull on the countershaft sprocket and rear hub. Eventually, one of three things can happen. The chain can snap, which may do nothing or may crack the engine cases. The countershaft sprocket shaft will break, leak, or wear out the bearings. Or the rear hub could crack. Tight chains are expensive.

Too loose chains will derail, slap onto the swing arm and wear out the chain slider too quickly.

Follow the manual and ask others to check your adjustments. This is a pretty friendly sport.

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