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I have used the universal type in the past that are actually designed for ATV/Snomobiles. They have the same wattage going to both grips which causes a signigicant difference the heat at the grip on motorcycles. I've always just wired the resistor to the right grip only to equalize the heat to both grips. Problem is you then have only one setting rather than hi/lo. I'm sure there have to be kits specific for motorcycles. I'm talking about the adhesive kind that fit under the grip allowing you to use the grip of your choice. Anyone have any ideas?

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Did you just say Handwarmers??? You have got to be kidding!!

We have been getting cooked by record high temps and your thinking about hand warmers!! Hell in So Cal were happy it's only 95 freaking degrees outside. Were breaking records man!! Something like 100 people dead because of the excessive heat!!

I can't wait for the week or two I get to wear my riding jacket this winter.

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That dual star kit looks the business. I'll try one & see how it goes. Yeah, yeah, I know, it's really hot up here in WA too. 100+ degrees this week! Nonetheless it ain't like Cali up here all the time. By late Aug I'm looking for warm hammies at night. I rode dirt bikes pretty much all seasons for years without thinking about hand warmers. Then I bought a 650L back in '97, put handwarmers on it & was ashamed I'd never had them before. Kind of like AC in a car in the southern states. Pretty much a must have. Thanks for all the posts.

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I have the Dual Star grip warmers. Easy install. The problem is most dirt bikes have minimal juice output so it takes forever for them to warm up. I put them on a KLX650R which is lucky to see 150 watts. They work, but since I ride year-round here in WA I just bought an old Goldwing instead. Carries more crap and keeps the rain off, and I can run a heated vest too. ?

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I had a KLX650 once as well. Had all kinds of aftermarket goodies on plus handwarmers. Yeah it did take a while for them to warm up. In the next few years I'll probable be looking to buy a more suitable on road bike as well. But for now I gots to run what I gots, which is a dual sported XR650R with a rewound stator. Where abouts in WA are you?

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Just got off the Dual-Star website, looking at their handwarmers. I had belived that they had different wattage elements to the left & right side to compensate for the fact that the left side mounts directly to the bar, causing a heat sink problem. Turns out they just sell large heat shring tubing to mount under the element on the left side of aluminum bars. Wish I had thought of this before. I'm just going to buy a locally available kit for $20 & try the heat shrink thing. By the way if anyone has had problems with the reistor breaking on these commonly available kits I found the exact replacement @ Radio Shack. They come 3 in a package for less than $5! To prevent them from breaking I just apply heat shrink tubing on the bare wires on each end right up to the ceramic of the resistor & run peice of scrap zip-tie along the element & zip-tie each end of it the the heat shrink tubing. I suppose a 3" length of hose slit lengthwise will perform just as well. This takes the strain off of the brittle, soldered wires coming from each end of the resistor where they usually break free due to vibration. The resistor should then be secured to something to prevent its weight from hanging from the wiring.

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  • 8 months later...

Good tip. Another question. I notice the resistor gets quite hot. A mechanic who installs these on snowmobiles says that is normal...but, it is really hot - too hot to touch. The grips work fine on high and low and I've checked all the wires. Is this normal?

Greg

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Yes, by nature the resistor develops heat (electrical resistance produces heat) so no worries unless it's mounted on or near something that might be damaged by the heat. I've ran one for years with no problems due to the heat. The only failure I've had is the wire breaking at one end due to the brittle solder joints at each end hence my prievious post. Hope this helps.

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Yes, by nature the resistor develops heat (electrical resistance produces heat) so no worries unless it's mounted on or near something that might be damaged by the heat. I've ran one for years with no problems due to the heat. The only failure I've had is the wire breaking at one end due to the brittle solder joints at each end hence my prievious post. Hope this helps.

Yes it's isolated now. The guy who installed it actually JB welded it to the frame near the neck. That certainly kept it from contacting anything but also left it subject to the wire breaking, which it did. I didn't know you could get the resistors at RS until I found your post so I bought another kit and used the parts I needed. Thanks for the info.

Greg

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Anyone tried the Polyheaters? They install inside the handlebars and have several advantages over the grip style.

1) No resistor

2) Wiring runs inside handlebars

3) Easy to install

4) $31 from pollyheater

The only downside I can see is limited heat output as they have to heat the bars as well as the handgrips.

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I believe those inserts will only fit inside steel bars so you're limited in handlebar selection as aluminum bars have a smaller I.D. Plus your throttle side will likely transfer little heat. Kind of the adhesive type heater problem only in reverse.

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I have used the universal type in the past that are actually designed for ATV/Snomobiles. They have the same wattage going to both grips which causes a signigicant difference the heat at the grip on motorcycles. I've always just wired the resistor to the right grip only to equalize the heat to both grips. Problem is you then have only one setting rather than hi/lo. I'm sure there have to be kits specific for motorcycles. I'm talking about the adhesive kind that fit under the grip allowing you to use the grip of your choice. Anyone have any ideas?

The RH grip is getting hot and the LH one is still cold isn't it???

The problem is the aluminum handlebar. The RH heater element is on the plastic throttle tube and is insulated from the handlebar. The LH element is mounted directly to the aluminum bar. The aluminum bar acts as a heat sink and draws all the heat away from your hand.

You need to insulate the LH heater element away from the bar. I see that Moose sells a piece of heat shrink tubing in there heater kit that you put on the bar 1st them put the element on that. A nice layer of black tape on the bar under the element might do the same thing.

But thats whats causing the heat differance. You need to insulate the LH element away from the bar ?

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