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Another "valve clearance" thread...


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I checked clearances on my '06 S (1065 miles and the oil's been changed twice since I purchased the beast) and was suprised by my findings:

Intake Right = 0.005

Intake Left = 0.005

Exhaust Right = 0.009

Exhaust Left = 0.010

So apparently I could increase shim size by one on each of the valves to give me:

Intake Right = 0.007

Intake Left = 0.007

Exhaust Right = 0.011

Exhaust Left = 0.012

Granted my clearances are still in spec but a bit "tight" on a few of the valves. Is this typical for a bike with such low mileage???? ? I've read posts where some riders like to keep their clearances in the middle of the road and others on the high side. What would you all suggest in regards to shimming? To shim or NOT to shim...that is the question???

Jered

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I'm PISSSSSEEEDDD OFF...I wanna go ride!! I was putting the valve cover back on after inspecting my valve clearances and while torquing the cover bolts to the initial 7 ft/lbs., I stripped the threads on the right side of the exhaust cam journal holder. Here's some pictures. How the hell would that be possible with 7 ft/lbs? I'm sooooo mad!!

Stripped Journal:

http://www.skywerx.com/DRZ/journal.jpg

Bolt with metal from journal:

http://www.skywerx.com/DRZ/bolts.jpg

Notice in the picture of the bolts, the right bolt has metal that worked it's way out of the journal holder. I assume that I'll have to replace the journal holder now. How much will this $hit set me back? Has anyone else done this?

I'm using my torque wrench set to 7 ft/lbs and a 6mm 3/8" allen head socket with a flex extension to get to the bolt. I keep the flex extension as vertical as possible to get an accurate "click" from the torque wrench. The wrench itself is about 3 months old as is made by Husky....&%$#@!???

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That cam cap is not an individually replaceable part, it is machined to match the head. I really hated to have to tell you that, sorry.......

You can always try a rethreader, no not a tap ? , but a rethreader may be able to work with the threads left. Otherwise you may end up using a helicoil, you can get them at autoparts stores.

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Would the helicoil change the integrity of the strength necessary to hold the cover on?

no, its only a 7# to 10# torque.

give it a go or maybe let someone who has used them before, if your not comfortable trying it.

relax, your bike is not ruined. ?

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That really sucks! ? I vote for timesert too. A little more expensive but very good.

This next advice won't help you but maybe someone else from making the same mistake. As others have said, don't use a torque wrench when the torque spec is that low. Just make it snug and you'll be fine. The only thing on the bike that I use a torque wrench on for basic maintenance are, suspension fasteners, brakes, axle nuts and things like that......critical fasteners, that make using "feel" a really bad idea. Also, you really need 2 torque wrenches if you don't already have them, 1 high and 1 low. I still would only use the low one on things like pinch bolts and stuff like that. I don't use a torque wrench on any fasteners when changing the oil either. Of course, some people will disagree with me on this and use a torque wrench on every nut and bolt on the bike so YMMV.

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So the general consesus is a helicoil??? We have Autozone's in Durango. Can you get 'em there? Any idea on cost?

Thanks everyone!! I'm a mental wreck knowing that my baby is in the ICU. ?

Jered

NAPA AUTO PARTS

Durango Parts Source (970) 247-2553

377 S Camino Del Rio Durango CO, 81301

should have them,

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NAPA AUTO PARTS

Durango Parts Source (970) 247-2553

377 S Camino Del Rio Durango CO, 81301

should have them,

Thanks bronco78! ? I appreciate the extra effort in regards to the Napa lookup. One other question...I've never used a helicoil before but rather a tap and die. Do they sell them in different size kits? Obviously the valve cover bolt was a 6mm.

thanks again!!!

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Thanks bronco78! ? I appreciate the extra effort in regards to the Napa lookup. One other question...I've never used a helicoil before but rather a tap and die. Do they sell them in different size kits? Obviously the valve cover bolt was a 6mm.

thanks again!!!

Yes,you can them in kits form,which includes the drill, tap,inserts and insert tool.. Or you can just buy the inserts. Kits range in size from Inch Coarse kits in sizes #4 through 1-1/2" and Inch Fine kits in sizes #6 through 1-1/2", also Metric Coarse kits M3 through M20 and Metric Fine Kits M8 through M16.

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So stripping threads appears to be a common problem today:

https://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=401025

On the cam caps...do most of you torque those with a wrench OR just snug 'em and potentially use medium (blue) loctite? Also, Does anyone know if the threads for the valve cover (in the valve cap) are considered coarse or fine?

I've been wrenching on bikes since I was 14 (now 28...started out with a KDX 80) and I've never stripped a thread :ride: Hence the reason I've never used a helicoil...hell I've never heard of 'em 'til today. I promise I know how to use a torque wrench... ?

Jered

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what tq wrench?

unless it was a 1/4 drive good quality unit,its not accurate at that low of a setting.

So I take that as a "no" Mr. Sisneros? You don't use a torque wrench on the small stuff? What about the plug? I torqued the plug to 8 ft\lbs and the wrench seemed to "click" about right...

Jered

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