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Shortening the Wheelbase

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Have any of you guys removed links to shorten the wheel base?

Was there a noticeable change and how so?

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I haven't removed any links...but I have dropped my fork tubes in the triple clamps. I believe THAT technically shortens the wheelbase,....no?

I just did it Thursday night before I went to a local track. I did noice a slight difference in the turning response. It didn't feel quite as lathargic and didn't push as bad through the turns. Although, it could have been all in my head. I went with 2.5mm as a test. I think I'm going to adjust it again to 4mm-5mm and see what happens for next week. Just a little at a time.

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I haven't removed any links...but I have dropped my fork tubes in the triple clamps. I believe THAT technically shortens the wheelbase,....no?

I just did it Thursday night before I went to a local track. I did noice a slight difference in the turning response. It didn't feel quite as lathargic and didn't push as bad through the turns. Although, it could have been all in my head. I went with 2.5mm as a test. I think I'm going to adjust it again to 4mm-5mm and see what happens for next week. Just a little at a time.

I have experimented with the fork height too. I am at 5mm now and to me there is a significant difference. I'm looking for more in the way of nimbleness. The fork thing seems to offer a trade off at high speed stability and in very tight turns it pushes a little.

I think the chain thing might add a little more.

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Have any of you guys removed links to shorten the wheel base?

Was there a noticeable change and how so?

I tried it on my '02 R, and it is quite noticable. But that was not the cure on that bike, new clamps were required (22mm offset).

I tried moving the forks on my '05x, pushing the sanctions up 5mm, and it helps quite a bit. But it does change the quality of the turning.

So, this is what I am going to do now: I have put the forks back to stock:

I put on a Dunlop 120/110 739f rear tire on my bike, because it is very tall, much taller than the stock tire. It made the bike handle 500% better! Virtually no push. However, it is so big, I had to take off the mud gaurd on the air box, because it chewed it up. So....if I take out one link set, I will be solving that problem, and shorting the wheelbase!

Trying it at KM, though it probably won't be really noticable till I get back in the Desert, where the pushing is most noticable.

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I tried it on my '02 R, and it is quite noticable. But that was not the cure on that bike, new clamps were required (22mm offset).

I tried moving the forks on my '05x, pushing the sanctions up 5mm, and it helps quite a bit. But it does change the quality of the turning.

So, this is what I am going to do now: I have put the forks back to stock:

I put on a Dunlop 120/110 739f rear tire on my bike, because it is very tall, much taller than the stock tire. It made the bike handle 500% better! Virtually no push. However, it is so big, I had to take off the mud gaurd on the air box, because it chewed it up. So....if I take out one link set, I will be solving that problem, and shorting the wheelbase!

Trying it at KM, though it probably won't be really noticable till I get back in the Desert, where the pushing is most noticable.

Funny I too tried the 739, and I noticed no real handling change. I have to say though, watch out with that tire on anything wet. When I had it on I couldn't get traction on the wet stuff, and in the mud it was horrid, it wouldn't clean out.

Looking at the chain and the available adjustment, it looks like i only have enough room to remove a 1/2 link. Not sure who sells 1/2 links for this chain though.

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I'm thinking about losing a link as well, mine pushes big time. I see you are in CT (rock country) like me. I'm having fits getting my suspension to work in the rocks, had both FC and WER do my stuff, and I still can't get it dialed in like my KTM's. I'm starting to think the frame is just too stiff. Rekluse makes the E axle which will give you a few mm's.

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I'm thinking about losing a link as well, mine pushes big time. I see you are in CT (rock country) like me. I'm having fits getting my suspension to work in the rocks, had both FC and WER do my stuff, and I still can't get it dialed in like my KTM's. I'm starting to think the frame is just too stiff. Rekluse makes the E axle which will give you a few mm's.

as we speak I am filling out the form to send my stuff to FC. Was there no noticeable change after your re valve, and didn't they work with you to get it dialed in. They do offer a guaranty.

What did Fits say that they can do that FC couldn't?

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don't get me wrong, both the WER settings and the FC settings are way better than stock, but I still get a lot of deflection in the rocks, I have no confidence in the bike to charge a rock garden at speed. It feels like a lot of the problem is coming from the rear. I really can't put my finger on it, but I can tell you that my linkless WP shock is working better than the showa unit w/linkage and that just shouldn't be

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I tried it on my '02 R, and it is quite noticable. But that was not the cure on that bike, new clamps were required (22mm offset).

I tried moving the forks on my '05x, pushing the sanctions up 5mm, and it helps quite a bit. But it does change the quality of the turning.

So, this is what I am going to do now: I have put the forks back to stock:

I put on a Dunlop 120/110 739f rear tire on my bike, because it is very tall, much taller than the stock tire. It made the bike handle 500% better! Virtually no push. However, it is so big, I had to take off the mud gaurd on the air box, because it chewed it up. So....if I take out one link set, I will be solving that problem, and shorting the wheelbase!

Trying it at KM, though it probably won't be really noticable till I get back in the Desert, where the pushing is most noticable.

so did this set up feel any better? stock versus 5mm?

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