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Rekluse: Tips & Tricks

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Ok, My new rekluse will be here tomorrow and I am looking for tips and tricks on the install and set up of the rekluse.

I did a few searches and it seems that the ideas are scattered so I was hoping to get them all together in one place.

What have you experienced and how did you fix it?

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I've got to go now but have a bit of info from one of the guys doing some of the prototype testing as well as my own experience. If I don't get back to this thread this evening then pm me and I'll get the info to you by noon tomorrow. :thumbsup:

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Tip #1: buy 2 sets of feeler gauges. You will need one on one side of your clutch plates and one exactly on the other side.

Tip #2: because we don't have an external adjuster (perch adjuster it was called?) you may need a couple of attempts. I decided to drill a hole in my skid plate, so every where I go, I can measure quickly, without having te remove my skid plate.

Tip #3: use blue Locktite to fasten all the small black bolts

Tip #4: buy your self some degreaser spray to spray them before applying the Locktite

Tip #5: buy a bottle of pressurized air to blow dry the holes after degreasing them

Tip #6: make sure your clutch cable is guided without bends: your clutch will moan at you because it will slip

Tip #7: use 5 tungsten balls (if I added it up nicely) perhaps even 7 if you have a big bore.

Tip #8: you will get a double (thicker) gasket for your clutch cover to make room for the extra thick Rekluse pressure plate. It WILL leak, perhaps you can also apply some liquid gasket. Does anyone have any ideas?

Cheers,

Noppy

P.S. Sorry for my English; I'm Dutch.

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I was advised to hold off on the locktite until I was sure the setting was correct, otherwise the little tiny screws have been known to strip.

If you engine is stock then 5 balls should be enough, I've worked with Al from rekluse on my setup. I have a healthy big bore that requires more then usual pressure. I'm running 10 tb and an additional internal spring and still can feel a bit of slipping so am going to go with more tb's.

I ordered an extra gasket for shelf stock since it is a special extra thickness, however I have not had any issues with leaking at all.

Many if not most of us have found that the clutch lever becomes totally unused as we get more used to the autoclutch. In fact I never installed an override at all.

The left hand rear brake is one of those mods that once you get used to it pretty much rocks!!! You can actually feel what your rear wheel is doing under braking whereas with mx boots on all I could do was stab the brake.

Good english there noppy:thumbsup:

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Question on the manual override: my bike is pretty much stock in the motor and exhaust dept. so when trail riding and needing to loft the front wheel over an object I have to clutch it to get it off the ground.

Does the rekluse do something different so you dont have to or do you guys have enough power to just gas the front wheel up?? :ride:

**thinking I may need to go on a diet** :thumbsup:

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Question on the manual override: my bike is pretty much stock in the motor and exhaust dept. so when trail riding and needing to loft the front wheel over an object I have to clutch it to get it off the ground.

Does the rekluse do something different so you dont have to or do you guys have enough power to just gas the front wheel up?? :ride:

**thinking I may need to go on a diet** :thumbsup:

diet may not be a bad idea..... :cry:

But as far as the clutch goes, you should be able to get away with the it provided it have it jetted properly and you are geared properly. I found in the tight stuff I ride when my bike was more or less stock I used a 13/47 sprocket combo and that allowed me to loft the front easily in first and second (just blip the throttle). Positioning yourself on the bike also helps, lean/scoot back for wheelies and forward for turns.

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I will have to try different gearing.

I am used to riding my yz250 2 stroke and have no problems lofting the front, at will.

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Be carefull, 13 will dig into your rear shock!

Noppy

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Be carefull, 13 will dig into your rear shock!

Noppy

:thumbsup: by any chance do you mean swingarm? Mine never did and I ran it for a year with the 13. Still haven't had to replace the pad/guard on the swingarm and I've seen at least one bike do that that was running 14. More has to do with making sure you aren't allowing the chain to get too much slack in it.

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All worked out good. Took my time, read the instructions a couple times. I used 5 TC balls. This is the first product I have purchased where they give you extra hardware. They must realise we are humans and stuff happens. It would suck to try to run to all the local Ace hardware stores to find a small torx flathead

I have ridden it around for 20 minutes, stalled it at a signal light pulling away :cry: but other than that I had a smile the whole time.

Practiced some tight slow circles and needed to feather the brake to keep it engaged and not lurch on me but I think it will be a big plus when I train myself in the proper techniques. :thumbsup::ride:

Need to pull it apart and double check clearances now.

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When my clutch engages it seems like it is on or off not much slipping.

Is this the normal feel of the rekluse?

What adjustments would I do to get it to feel a little more slippy or will this come in time as I get used to the clutch and proper throttle application?

It is engaging pretty much right off idle and allows me to lock up rear wheel with the brake and reengages quickly so I have engine braking.

I went with five TC balls and used the spring that was already in it.

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Do you have the external adjusting spring with yours? Mine is an older one and I have an external spring that can be changed out and adjusted in and out, that is how I can adjust some of the engagement speed.

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I bet if you drop a tc ball or two and replace with steel you'd get a bit smoother transition,,,,,albiet with a bit more clutch slipping right off idle.

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Ok I put in two flat washers with the L1 spring and swapped two TC balls for steel.

The washers moved my stall speed up higher in the RPM's and swapping the steel made for a bit smoother engagement.

Although either would have improved the engagement in theory,

Faster RPM = more slip due to more momentum of the motor

I will try it for a couple days and let everyone know how it is working.

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