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anyone have trouble with their brakes? mine seem weak, and they get hot FAST, i bled them out and put new fluid on but it didnt seem to help, im thinking about getting braided steel lines and an over sized front rotor, i was just wondering if there was somthing i could do before i go off and spend a bunch of cash.

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ive read that there is a coating on the rotor when its new that u should clean off with brake clean before the first ride.if u didnt it may have contaminated the pads. i installed ebc "mxs" race sintered pads on my last bike and they helped alot.use dot 4 fluid as it usually has a higher boiling point than dot 3.

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I have the same problem. I mainly just got used to it, but I did moved my f. brake lever out as far as I could stand it and used Motul brake fluid (I forgot the kind but its the most expensive with the highest boiling point) Helped a little, thinking of trying new pads?

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Try using Motul RBF600 Dot 4 brake fluid. Another thing that the off-road guys use is the Zip-Ty brake extender because it allows for more fluid which helps the overheating problem.

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I have the same problem. I mainly just got used to it, but I did moved my f. brake lever out as far as I could stand it and used Motul brake fluid (I forgot the kind but its the most expensive with the highest boiling point) Helped a little, thinking of trying new pads?

Motorex DOT 5.1 is some good stuff too. I use it in my street bike. I'd recommend a complete flush of the 4.0 if you do decide to switch.

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anyone have trouble with their brakes? mine seem weak, and they get hot FAST, i bled them out and put new fluid on but it didnt seem to help, im thinking about getting braided steel lines and an over sized front rotor, i was just wondering if there was somthing i could do before i go off and spend a bunch of cash.

How's this for a thread bump. 14 months on.

OK main question. SS braided brake lines. Do they make a big difference compared with a 30 hrs used stock line on the front?

My 06 had great brakes when new. One finger endos no probs. Now with 2 or 3 fingers I can pull the lever in almost to the grip and stopping power is very poor in comparison to one finger stops when new. Very spongey. So I've fully flushed, bleed and re-bleed a few times. With long rides in between. Using DOT4. No difference. 9/10 times before rides I use brake cleaner to clean the front disc of any WD40 residue. I've not pulled apart the front caliper (yet) because I don't lose fluid and it's pretty simple in there I guess.

If there is no air in the system, then it has to be the line expanding right? Can air sit down in the front caliper somewhere even after careful bleeding and some bumpy riding?

My rear brake is just fine and basically don't care. I'm not a big user of the rear brake after switching to 4 strokes. I can lock the rear at will when throttle is closed. And no spongey feeling!

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How's this for a thread bump. 14 months on.

OK main question. SS braided brake lines. Do they make a big difference compared with a 30 hrs used stock line on the front?

My 06 had great brakes when new. One finger endos no probs. Now with 2 or 3 fingers I can pull the lever in almost to the grip and stopping power is very poor in comparison to one finger stops when new. Very spongey. So I've fully flushed, bleed and re-bleed a few times. With long rides in between. Using DOT4. No difference. 9/10 times before rides I use brake cleaner to clean the front disc of any WD40 residue. I've not pulled apart the front caliper (yet) because I don't lose fluid and it's pretty simple in there I guess.

If there is no air in the system, then it has to be the line expanding right? Can air sit down in the front caliper somewhere even after careful bleeding and some bumpy riding?

My rear brake is just fine and basically don't care. I'm not a big user of the rear brake after switching to 4 strokes. I can lock the rear at will when throttle is closed. And no spongey feeling!

Your description definitely sounds like air in the lines OR in the caliper. Does the spongeyness go away immediately after a bleed and then come back after the fluid gets heated up?

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Your description definitely sounds like air in the lines OR in the caliper. Does the spongeyness go away immediately after a bleed and then come back after the fluid gets heated up?

No. After a bleed, it feels exactly the same. It's interesting that I never recalled jumping on the bike one day and thinking, hmm my brake is spongey. It seems to have happened very gradually. I think I have a brake tumor in my front hemisphere!

Hey, when I say I can pull the lever in almost the grip, that's when really pulling on it. I have decent grip strength. I just don't want to wear myself out. I want it like it once was. :confused: Thanks for your help.

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A least once a year i change the master cylinder and caliper seals.

Kawasaki mentions this in their manual as periodic maintenance.

This maintenance solved all the symptoms described above.

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A least once a year i change the master cylinder and caliper seals.

Kawasaki mentions this in their manual as periodic maintenance.

This maintenance solved all the symptoms described above.

Yeah, seals gone bad could definitely cause the symptoms too. Good tip!

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I appreciate the feedback! My manual says to replace the seals every 2 years. My bike was first used 14 months ago. So maybe you are right nukem, and I am just unlucky. However. the 06 service manual (pg 12-13) says:

Fluid Seal Damage

The fluid seal around the piston maintains the proper pad/disc clearance. If this seal is not in good condition, pad wear will increase, and constant pad drag on the disc will raise brake and brake fluid temperature. Replace the fluid seals under any of the following conditions: (a) fluid leakage around the pad; (:confused: brakes overheat; © there is a large difference in left and right pad wear; (d) the seal is stuck to the piston. If the fluid seal is replaced, replace the dust seal as well. Also, replace all seals every other time the pads are changed.

Only © could be the case for me. I will check when I visit my bike next week. I definitely am not losing fluid and the spongey feeling is there when cold.

The owner and service manuals never mention the brake line being at fault. Can anyone comment on the quality and life span of the stock brake line? Surely it could fail like anything else. :confused:

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kawasaki has had a long rep for weak front brake lines... i dont have an issue with mine atm, but, in the past i had to replace my front line with a braided steel one, to great effect.

might also try holding your lower caliper above your lever... to make the air rise up and maybe out of your caliper....that or your brake pads might be penetrated with a lubricant that brake cleaner might not remove... so i would try a really solid bleed + new pads first.

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kawasaki has had a long rep for weak front brake lines... i dont have an issue with mine atm, but, in the past i had to replace my front line with a braided steel one, to great effect.

might also try holding your lower caliper above your lever... to make the air rise up and maybe out of your caliper....that or your brake pads might be penetrated with a lubricant that brake cleaner might not remove... so i would try a really solid bleed + new pads first.

Thanks Darkkyn, I will try both those things first.

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I now have an 07 KX450f and the brakes are weak when I compare them to good brakes I have felt before. I, too, had to adjust the lever as far out as it would go so I didn't feel like the lever was going to come to the bar.... and I had to do this the day I bought it. MY KX250 was exactly the same thing and I bled that thing a million times and changed everything to stop it but nothing worked. I thought the weak brakes would "break in" and get better but they never did. I want one finger braking and that's not even close to what I have.

I think over the winter I will go to steel braided and better brake pads like some of you have suggested in this thread. I assume that'll do the trick but if not I will go to over sized rotor as well.

I find it very difficult to properly modulate braking force when I have to wrap my entrie hand over the lever. Taking all my fingers off the grip isn't the first thing I want to do at the end of a long straight full of braking bumps and I'm in 4th. Through in some fatigue or arm pump and the situation gets much worse. This is a major sore point for me and this bike... well the lousy turning was until I got that sorted with clickers and fork height.

Most of the guys don't brake hard and late and this is one area I enjoy and it enables me to keep up to people I otherwise wouldn't be able to hang with. These lousy Kawy brakes are totally holding me back because as I get tired or arm pump I just stop using them all together because like I said early... they just require too much from me when I am not 100%.

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I now have an 07 KX450f and the brakes are weak when I compare them to good brakes I have felt before. I, too, had to adjust the lever as far out as it would go so I didn't feel like the lever was going to come to the bar.... and I had to do this the day I bought it. MY KX250 was exactly the same thing and I bled that thing a million times and changed everything to stop it but nothing worked. I thought the weak brakes would "break in" and get better but they never did. I want one finger braking and that's not even close to what I have.

I think over the winter I will go to steel braided and better brake pads like some of you have suggested in this thread. I assume that'll do the trick but if not I will go to over sized rotor as well.

I find it very difficult to properly modulate braking force when I have to wrap my entrie hand over the lever. Taking all my fingers off the grip isn't the first thing I want to do at the end of a long straight full of braking bumps and I'm in 4th. Through in some fatigue or arm pump and the situation gets much worse. This is a major sore point for me and this bike... well the lousy turning was until I got that sorted with clickers and fork height.

Most of the guys don't brake hard and late and this is one area I enjoy and it enables me to keep up to people I otherwise wouldn't be able to hang with. These lousy Kawy brakes are totally holding me back because as I get tired or arm pump I just stop using them all together because like I said early... they just require too much from me when I am not 100%.

That does suck. FYI my '08 front brakes work great; one finger braking all the time, my '06 was the same. Just saying the stock brake systems can function very well.

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That does suck. FYI my '08 front brakes work great; one finger braking all the time, my '06 was the same. Just saying the stock brake systems can function very well.

I agree. My '06 has awesome brakes. Very easy to lock up the front down here in the soft FL sand and dirt. 1 finger is way more than enough most of the time.

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kx250man, I can relate 100%. When new however, my front brake was very good and got bad very gradually. Now I notice it 100% of the time, it $hits me too often. The pads I wont change/blame until I can remove the spongy feeling. 4 finger hard pulls are not much fun. I can pull hard enough with 2 fingers, but then the outside 2 get squashed. It's that spongy! Besides I want one finger stopping because like you I need to hang on to the machine. Yesterday I tried every bleed method I could think of and pulled the caliper apart. No problems or air anywhere. As per the service manual, I also verified the front pads have equal wear (see my earlier posting). So I am going for a steel braided line. They are not very expensive. My guess is some many KX lines must go "soft" or something.

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Update: Put on a steel braided brake line. Reverse bleed/loaded with fluid. Feels great now. Powerful but still progressive enough. I can lock the front easy and the hand lever never squashes my outer fingers on the bar. Everything else is stock standard incl pads. I guess my front (stock) brake line "blew out". I cannot ride with a spongy front brake, at least on a KX450.

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