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Is it my clutch, or clutch cable?

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Hello,

I am new to this site, and new to 4 Stroke Dirbikes as well. I just bought a 2004 YZ250F on Friday, and took it to the track Saturday. I love it! Much nicer than my old CR250.

The bike ran perfect, no clutch issues. Sunday, I replaced the clutch lever. Went to take it down the road, and I had to let the lever out all the way before it took off. Then, I came to a stop in 1st, with the clutch pulled in, and it kept creeping fwd, and sometimes stalled.

I adjusted both ends of the throttle cable 1000 different ways, and still the same result. I put the old clutch lever back on, and it did the same thing.

What is the problem? The other owner, said the bike had about 30 hrs on it. It still has the original chain/sprokets, and rear tire.

Do I need a new clutch or cable?

I appricate the help!!!

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That's the infamous clutch drag that some of these bike have, not a big deal really. Go to www.thumperfaq.com and read up on how to deal with it. Sometimes it's just the brand of oil that you use - some oil work better than others.

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Would this be something that worked fine one day, then not the next? Thats what has me baffeled? Thanks!!

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My WR would drag when it's really hot after a long tight section, but other times there is no drag at all at the beginning of the day. Speaking about my WR only, it seems to drag more later in the day. After a new oil change or when using a different brand or lighter/thicker weight oil can change how it behaves. I got used to riding with a little drag once in a while so it's not a big deal. I'm running at a lower rpm than most people in idle mode so that helps to keep the drag to a minimum too.

In your case, are there any other strange behaviors or just the drag? If it's just the drag, it shouldn't be a big deal unless there is something wrong that the previous owner didn't tell you about. It might be best to open up the clutch cover and inspect the clutch, if there is no problem in there then it's just the clutch drag issue that many people have experienced on TT.

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No other problems. Just that it will not let me keep it in 1st gear with the clutch pulled in without stalling or trying to creep fwd.

Its just wierd how it was perfect Sat, then Sunday it started doing this.

How would I know if the clutch itself was bad?

Is it ok to ride it like this and just deal with it? I dont want to cause further damage.

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Did you read www.thumperfaq.com for fixing the clutch drag problem yet? Have you tried any of the fixes yet? Tried different oil, etc.? The clutch drag problem should not hurt your bike other than wearing the clutch plates faster since they're dragging.

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Yes I did read that. Thank you. I havent tried them, I have been at work. Will try the oil and washer today. I just didnt know what the symptoms were if the clutch were bad all together.

I appricate your help! I will let you know how the washer/oil go.

What oil brand and weight do you recomend for this 250f?

Thanks!!!

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If the clutch was bad or worn, you would probably be slipping more than dragging.

I'm currently using Shell Rotella T 15w-40. If you're really bored, do a search on oil, way too much info to read. Amsoil and Mobil 1 motorcycle oil are also good products but more expensive. Change your oil often and use a good brand and your bike will last a good long time.

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Ok, kinda confused now, I got the clutch cover off, like instructed on the above link, got the 5 bolts that hold the springs in, now I need to go buy washers, but It reads : "Make sure they fit inside the springs" ? So I need to find a washer, that fits over the bolt, but a smaller diameter than the spring? Or does this mean, over the bolt, and fit on the insdie of the spring cavity? Shouldnt I just buy a washer the same size as the one on there now, (over the bolt, and wider diameter than the springs) to double them up for the thickness?

Thanks!?!?

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Did you measure the free length of the springs? Did you inspect the basket and the center hub? Check your clutch cable also, it may be stretched.He told you 30 hrs there may be more hrs! :thumbsup:

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how can doing a oil change help with the drag because mine today when i shifted down into 1st it jumped then stalled???

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I took out all the rings and couldnt see any damage at all, everything looked perfect. What should the free lenght of the springs be?

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also, how can I tell if the cable is stretched? It was only about half adjusted at the lever, and none at the motor, so I dont think its the cable... but could be wrong.

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Ok, kinda confused now, I got the clutch cover off, like instructed on the above link, got the 5 bolts that hold the springs in, now I need to go buy washers, but It reads : "Make sure they fit inside the springs" ? So I need to find a washer, that fits over the bolt, but a smaller diameter than the spring? Or does this mean, over the bolt, and fit on the insdie of the spring cavity? Shouldnt I just buy a washer the same size as the one on there now, (over the bolt, and wider diameter than the springs) to double them up for the thickness?

Thanks!?!?

I could be wrong since I haven't had to do the 79-cents fix to my clutch but...

From reading the instructions, you're trying to make the 5 towers where the bolts fasten on to longer (see picture below) - so according to the article you'll need M6 (6mm) washers to fit inside the springs and lift/push the retaining/bigger washer a little further out - i.e. making those 5 towers longer. Basically your springs when fully compressed can not be taller than those 5 towers (or spring cavity as they are called in that article).

wr250clutch_sm.jpg

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how can doing a oil change help with the drag because mine today when i shifted down into 1st it jumped then stalled???

That might be a whole different issue - if your bike sits for a while, the clutch plates may be sticky, so when you shift into gear, the clutch is already enganged hence you'll stall. Try putting your bike in 5th gear and make sure you can roll the bike forward & backward to break the plates loose (with the clutch disengaged, i.e. lever pulled), then start your bike and rev the engine up higher than idle speed before putting it in gear. Ride around for a while and everything should go back to normal.

An oil change can not help with clutch plates that are already sticky or stuck together, but using good oil will help prevent having sticky clutch plates since they are better grade oil and will do a better job in general for your clutch.

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also, how can I tell if the cable is stretched? It was only about half adjusted at the lever, and none at the motor, so I dont think its the cable... but could be wrong.

It's not the cable then...

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OK, I am back.... I went to Advanced for the 5mm washers, that fit the bolt, but also fit inside the spring. I did all 5. Put everything back. Drained all old oil, replaced with fresh stuff. The bike fire right up 1st kit.

I put it in 1st, and it didnt go anywhere. I tried adjusting the cable several times, and still no where. Now the cable seems to have slack (at the motor end) no matter how tight I adjust it.

???????? HELP !!!!!!!!

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Your pressure plate is being hung up disengaged,it is not returning fully on to the plates.

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