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Just installed Pro Taper 1 1/8" bars...

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I pulled the pad off my MSR ($17.00) bars last night and noticed that the crossbar was bent (from my last drop), so I thought it was the perfect excuse to pick up a decent set of bars on the way home from work. I went out tonight and got the Pro Taper SE's CR high bend. When I got home I noticed that the cover of the pad had a razor type cut in it (probably from them using a razor knife to cut open the box), so I went back to the dealer. I ended up trading the bars back in for the 1 1/8" black CR High bend bars and picked up the Pro Taper conversion parts (not sure what they are called) that allowed me to put the 1 1/8" bars on the 7/8" triple clamp. I just finished up and I gotta say, these bars feel really good. I like the "beef" of them and the fact that they are a little higher up. The reach feels real good and I'm hoping they won't bend too easy. I wasn't able to put the key switch back on, so I just used some zip ties to hold it in place and it seems to be ok for now. Are these bars a lot tougher than the cheapo MSR's that I bent? I'm hoping you get what you pay for....

Tim

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Pro tapers are strong. Use one of the stock bolts and bolt the ignition on. I think I had to use the larger hole on the aluminum ign. bracket though.

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Fitted the same bars last week, also had to make a new ignition keyswitch mount. Only thing I'm a bit worried about is the throttle cables are quite tight with the steering on right lock, pulled hard over the brake master res.

Will pull the seat etc off to see if I can steal a bit by easing the routing down there but if not does anyone have suggestions?

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Protapers are very strong but can be bent, but it takes one hell of a crash to do it.

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i've been running protapers for 8 years and have never bent them.they say that if you bend the bars they don't want to see the bike

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Here is a pic of mine, not the best angle but at the time I wasn't really thinking straight :thumbsup:

PICT0099.jpg

This is the result of an in air collision, several feet up off a jump at 3:00AM in a race. I was in 4th gear and pinned we made contact and landed in a heap. I'm still working on one of my elbows from that one. The bike was 50 feet in front of me and down a hill, the HID was still on and the rekluse kept the engine running. It died from the angle before I got to it but the HID takes so little juice it kept glowing. I finished the lap and took another one, but that was it for me.

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Pro tapers are strong. Use one of the stock bolts and bolt the ignition on. I think I had to use the larger hole on the aluminum ign. bracket though.

I used one allen bolt for the ignition switch/clamp then cut off a allen bolt head with about 1/4" left then hot glued it in the other unusable hole. It has stayed on for 6 monthes and looks great.

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I've got Pro Taper Cr High bends on my bike too. I took care of the ingnition switch problem by mounting it under the top triple clamp using one of the bolts from the odometer mount. I only was able to use one of the ignition switch bracket mounting holes, but it stays put and hasn't come loose yet. It works well and I like not being able to see the switch at all, except when I need to! To insert the key I just turn the bars to the left and reach down and stick the key in and turn it on. I'd show you pic, but not sure how to do that at this moment. :thumbsup:

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Yeah, I'd like to see that pict too.

Can you guys give me some variations for mounting the keyswitch?

Tim

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O.K. I posted some pics of my ingnition switch mount mod in my garage. :thumbsup:

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I attached mine to one of the bolts securing the fron blinker. Has only been on a few weeks, but so far so good.

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I love the bars. I've had them quite a while. I took them off my '02 RM250 before putting it up for sale. My fork boots are still on.

I should have noted that I added some spacers (washers) between the odometer mount bracket and the triple clamp so that the odometer would clear the bar pad. :thumbsup:

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