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I'm gonna do IT tonight

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That’s right, tonight I am going to put my new 88 kit in. I have some questions.

1st, will I need some sort of gasket sealer?

2nd, is there a trick for getting the piston and rings to easily slide into the cylinder?

3rd, are there any special tools needed?

4th, what can I use as a valve gauge?

5th, about how long should it take?

Any other tips or suggestions would be appreciated.

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1no

2squeeze each ring induvidually and it will go in easy.

3 tourqe wrench is good but you can get away without it.

4 a soda can is .0045"

5 it will take a long time if your clueless, not much if youve done it before.

6 make super sure your timing is correct, turn the motor over by hand(turn the flywheel) slowly and if you feel any major resistance thats not usual comprerssion, STOP! and recheck your timing.

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1. No

2. I don't know about 88 kits but on a stock cylinder, it's tapered at the bottom and you can carefully push it inand the taper will compress the rings.

3. feeler gauges, torque wrench, and a quarter brain.

4. Feeler gauges are better than a soda can. But in a pinch use the soda can. You have to cut them with scissors other wise the small bend from cutting it will throw off your measurments.

5. It took four hours the first time I did it and two the second time.

*And as said by five0addict, make sure your timing is right. If not your bike will either run like crap or explode. And here's an exact link to the 88 Installation Instructions.

http://www.danosbikeshop.com/Technical/docs/88KitInstall_Instructions.doc

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Thanks for the info. Everything was going great until I tried to install the high volume oil pump. I don't have the special socket to get the cluth nut off. Is there anything elst that will work? I live in a small town and we curently do not have a moto shop, so any sugestions would help. I may just have to order one.

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I got mine from Honda Trail Bikes. It's made of good think metal and can be used with an impact wrench with a 1/2 inch drive. If you have an impact wrench then it will really help. And a torque wrench in mandatory to keep the clutch on and to make sure you don't strip out small screws. I love having the right tools and you will too. (sound like I'm advertising something) so just spend the money and get the right thing. It will save you money down the road.

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Yeah I thought about that, but I'm just going to get the tool, or machine one if I can get the time. I usually mess stuff up when the hammer comes out.

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I took an old socket, and used an angle grinder to remove material to leave the needed points.

It's not the prettiest thing but it's worked everytime.

Socket size,,,7/8

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sweet I just bought a 1" socket to do exactly that, I will go trade it in for a 7/8. Thanks for the tip.

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So, I got everything buttoned up last night, kit was fairly easy to put togther. SO now I have a couple more questions.

I have some feeler guages, but none listed at .05? The guages have two numbers on them like .005 .127 mm. So which is which? I just used the pop can method.

what do I do with the hose that was connected to the old carb and little black plastic oval part bolted to the frame. The whole thing connects to the back of the engine case. What is it? and what do I do with it.

I have the bbr throttle body and cable already attached, is there any reason to use the the new cable provided in the kit vs. the old one.

How long is breakin on a new head? 50 hrs?

I am going home tonight and fire her up, hope all goes well.

Anyway thanks for the he

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um...well i have heard for four strokes that its best to warm them up and then ride them like you stole them. its a proven fact that it is better for the engine becuase its helps seat the rings. here's a link so you guys know im not bullshitting you.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

as for the bars, you can keep the same throttle and cable as long as they were meant for a bar kit (extended cable) and then always save the other one for another day.

as for the hose thing, im not to sure what you are talking about, are you talking about the airbox or what?

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I have a picture, but can't get it to attach. What I am talking about is a 2"X1' black plastic piece( looks like a pill or oval shaped) that is bolted to the frame behind the oem airbox and above where the kill switch attaches. It attaches to the oem airbox and the rear of the engine case, on top in front of the rear swing arm, via two black hoses. Wiith the air box removed there is no where to attach the hose. Hope this helps

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The small block box is a smog box to remove harmful fumes from the engine cases and burn them through the engine. On Z50Rs, there is no smog box. The hose from the back of the case goes staight down to the ground and ends. Since you no longer have the stock airbox, you can just let it hang like the Z50Rs did. But I have a Z50R and am environmetally concious so I took an XR50 airbox and stuck it in my bike.

ASR005.jpg

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