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crank bolt access cover

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I bought a manual cam chain tensioner for my DRZ 400E and the instructions say to remove the "crank bolt access cover" and manually turn the crank by hand while gently screwing in the adjusting bolt on the mcct. Simple right? Wrong, not if you're not sure which is the crank bolt access cover :thumbsup: !! Secondly, which direction (cw or ccw) should the crank be rotated to proper adjust the tensioner?

Thanks in advance!

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1st, it's the large round plug on the left crank case cover. Second,not sure what instructions your referring to.. But, I would not be turning the crank over while adjusting the MCCT.... Please post the instruction your using.

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Are you referring to the threaded plug in the center of the generator cover?

The instructions I'm using are the ones posted on this website, for the TT mcct, they are as follows...

Manual Cam Chain Tensioner Instructions

1. Remove your stock tensioner and thoroughly clean the mounting surface area on the engine. (Do not start your engine while the tensioner is removed.)

2. Remove the crank bolt access cover.

3. Completely back out the adjusting bolt and sealing o-ring on the new tensioner before installation.

4. Lightly coat the large o-ring with oil, install the new tensioner and tighten the mounting bolts to 7 ft-lbs (84 inch-lbs).

5. Finger tighten the adjuster bolt while turning the crank shaft by hand. At certain points during the engine’s rotation, you will feel the adjuster bolt tighten taking up slack in the chain. DO NOT force the adjuster bolt. Just let a steady finger tightening tension take up the slack as you rotate the crank.

6. Once the slack has been completely taken up, back off the adjuster bolt 1/4 turn.

7. Slide the o-ring down the adjuster bolt threads to its sealing position and tighten down the jam nut while holding the adjuster bolt in place. (Make sure the adjuster bolt does not turn when tightening the jam nut.)

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Are you referring to the threaded plug in the center of the generator cover?

The instructions I'm using are the ones posted on this website, for the TT mcct, they are as follows...

Manual Cam Chain Tensioner Instructions

1. Remove your stock tensioner and thoroughly clean the mounting surface area on the engine. (Do not start your engine while the tensioner is removed.)

2. Remove the crank bolt access cover.

3. Completely back out the adjusting bolt and sealing o-ring on the new tensioner before installation.

4. Lightly coat the large o-ring with oil, install the new tensioner and tighten the mounting bolts to 7 ft-lbs (84 inch-lbs).

5. Finger tighten the adjuster bolt while turning the crank shaft by hand. At certain points during the engine’s rotation, you will feel the adjuster bolt tighten taking up slack in the chain. DO NOT force the adjuster bolt. Just let a steady finger tightening tension take up the slack as you rotate the crank.

6. Once the slack has been completely taken up, back off the adjuster bolt 1/4 turn.

7. Slide the o-ring down the adjuster bolt threads to its sealing position and tighten down the jam nut while holding the adjuster bolt in place. (Make sure the adjuster bolt does not turn when tightening the jam nut.)

Yes that is the plug.

And not sure who's wrote those instructions,, but it's not how I would recommend doing it... So if your following that procedure, your on your own.

Personally, I remove the old ACCT, install the new. Finger tighten the MCCT, start the motor, back off till you hear the chain rattle,then tighten just till the rattle goes away. Tighten the lock nut.. Go ride.

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Viewed from the left (alternator side), the engine rotates CCW (same direction as the wheels). That access plug in the center of the alternator cover is often frozen in place and you don't need to take it out anyway. When you have the cam chain tensioner out, you can reach in with your finger and feel the guide slipper. Just adjust the manual tensioner to lightly touch the slipper same as your finger. That will be good enough to start the motor and do final adjustment with the motor running. I recommend you position the motor with piston at (or near) TDC on the compression stroke so the cam lobes are away from the followers so the cam does not want to "kick back" when the tensioner is taken out.

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I did mine the way bronco said, Much easier, same result!!

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It does sound easier, but never having had a 4 stroke motor apart before (ex-2 stroke motocrosser) I'm concerned about not having enough tension on the chain and it being able to throw things out of time enough to cause damage??? (over cautious or valid concern?)

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Follow my and Bronco's advise and you will be fine. One of the advantages of the MCCT is you do not need to put as much tension on it as the ACCT does. Actually the purpose of any CCT is to take the slack out not actually apply any force. Following the procedure that came with the MCCT is OK but it will result in tension more like the ACCT. Following the "lessen for rattle" technique takes the slack out and does not over tension. Rattle goes away, lock it, or if you like add a 1/4 to 1/2 turn and that's it. There is a long springy slipper that the tensioner pushes on and adjustment is not as critical as some people think.

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