Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

KLR 650 No spark, Pleeeze help!

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

I'm new here, and I'm hoping someone can help me with my dilemma.

I bought a '93 KLR 650 in non-running condition and minus a few parts.

One of the problems it had when I got it was a lack of compression, so I rebuilt the top end. It has great compression now, so we can eliminate that variable. This is what has been done so far: (1)The clutch safety switch has been bypassed, all three wires hooked together.

(2) The sidestand switch has been bypassed, the two wires at the connector snipped and hooked together and soldered.

(3)ohmed the CDI unit, and according to Kawi's chart. it was toast.

I replaced the CDI unit (expen$ive)

(4) I replaced the ignition coil at the same time, as it seemed like cheap insurance.

(5)took the kill switch off the bars to ensure that it wasn't grounding out, still wouldn't start. NO SPARK!

(6)checked and re-checked all connectors leading to the CDI and pulse coil, tightening all the spade terminals and using dielelectric grease. NO SPARK :thumbsup:

messed with the wiring some more leading to the pulse coil, and miraculously, it started. Ran for quite a while, too, while I was breaking in the engine.

I ran it for about 10 minutes and shut it off to cool, and later it wouldn't restart. So I ohmed the pulse coil. I read somewhere that if either one of the wires coming out of the pulse coil read anything but infinity, it was junk. One of them read 157 Ohms. I replaced the pulse coil.

And?

NO SPARK! :ride:

I have no power to the ignition coil. This doesn't make any sense to me; I don't want to condemn a brand-new part, because after the bike *did* start I plugged the old CDI in to see if it would work, and it did., I retried the old coil "just because", and still nothing. This is embarrasing, as I've been a mechanic for 18 yrs., and haven't run into too many things I couldn't fix.

I would just take it to my local shop to have it looked at, but I *need* to know how to fix this thing if I'm on a trip somewhere and the same thing happens, you know what I mean?

Has anybody else had a similar problem? I'm a really good listener! :applause:

Happy Trails (eventually)

Mike Barbarigos

Reno NV

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I once chased a similar problem on my 1970 land Cruiser...... after three hours of double checking everything...... :thumbsup: I just stood there under the hood..... :applause: and burned my elbow on the transfer case linkage......

Tuned out that I had poor grounding, hence the hot linkage rod....... this was acting as the ground from the engine to the frame/ battery....... :applause:

Once i cleaned all the existing ground wires, and add a few more....... It started right up.... :applause:

So basically I am sugesting that you check for proper grounding.... if that doesnt help, then bang away :ride::applause::applause:

Jesse

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thank you, I'll check the grounds again, as there are several of them coming off the blk/ylw wire.

Mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why did you hook all three clutch safety switch wires together?

I don't have a wiring diagram, but I have a bike that runs. I was forced to field-replace the clutch lever (as I broke mine off at the base) and I spliced 2 wires together to bypass the switch, not 3 (can't recall which two, since I'm at my office).

Try that out. Assuming that you are even getting power to the switch.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any luck yet? If no, I'd shoot all the connectors with WD40 to thin & clean off the dilectric grease which can sometimes insulate & block current flow.

The pick-up coil should have some ohm value, my books says: pickup coil (BK/Y to BK) is 100-150 ohms. The Exciter (W to R) is 100-200 ohms.

You say "No power to the ignition coil" do you mean the exciter coil? The IGNITION coil is pulsed by the CDI. Ground side is made all the time through the BK/Y wire and the + side (BK) is only pulsed by the CDI when the crank rotates through the firing position. The Exciter coil is a generator that feeds the CDI so no battery power is required. I believe that this is the sole source of power for the ignition.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A few things. You seem like a really experienced old-time mechanic. By "NO SPARK" I assume the starter motor cranks on cue but the bike doesn't start. Sometimes the starter relays go bad. If I have assumed wrong, check that too (jumper the high-current contacts with a screwdriver (sparks! careful!) and the engine shouold crank).

1- The KLR has a magneto/cdi. There will be no power to the coil until the instant the CDI fires. This is opposite of a points system, where the coil is charged all the time until the points interrupt the circuit.

2- The kill switch on a KLR works opposite to that of most earlier dirtbikes. Earlier bikes use the kill switch to ground the coil primary, killing spark. On a KLR, the kill switch normally lives in the "closed" position, so current can flow TO to the coil primary winding. Hitting OFF on the KLR kill switch opens the circuit, preventing the CDI from sending current to the coil and thus killing the spark. Ass backwards. If you remove the kill switch, you need to jumper the wires where it connected.

3- The sidestand safety switch works like the kill switch (sort of), closed position to run. The sidestand safety switch is a common failure point. Remove the switch, and jumper the wires where it connected.

4- Most Radio Shack multimeters don't measure high resistances very accurately. Swappping out with a know good part is the only sure way to diagnose a failed piece of electrical equipment.

5- It's probably something stupid. Like the plug wire (cracks in the insulation), ground for the coil (I don't remember if it ground through it's mount or a separate strap, but clean/grease/tighten both), or the clutch or sidestand safety switches. There's a bypass for the clutch safety switch, just google "klr650 clutch safety switch bypass" and you should find instructions.

6- You didn't mention checking the stator. The manual gives a resistance spec for the ignition windings on the stator and for the pulse coil. Check all these, but if you get a bad reading CAREFULLY examine the wiring and the connectors, and clean and grease the whole business, before you replace anything.

You have my sympathy, chasing down an electrical gremlin is a real bitch.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I neglected to say that the kill switch also kills the start circuit, so if it rotates thats not it unless the switch is broken inside (it has 2 circuits).

Bike will start with sidestand switch in any position if you are in Neutral (and neutral switch works).

Starter lock out kills the start relay and the CDI, again, if the engine rotates it's not that.

Connecting the starter lockout wires together eliminates the L/O and the Netural Switch.

Double check all the connecters.

Give us an update.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi:

I just had the exact same thing with my ninja...did all the same tests found that the coils both were testing no good, cdi box same etc..all of the same things as you said...Last thing I checked was every wire from the starting and ignition circiut and found a wire broken off the ignition switch but close enough that it would start sometimes and run as normal. But as soon as I resoldered it back together ....problem solved!! It's like new again!

Sure glad I had the smarts to sit for hours and followed the wiring diagram...what a pain that was...but way cheaper than replacing all of the components that falsely checked out dead!!

Good luck!! :thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

2- "The kill switch on a KLR works opposite to that of most earlier dirtbikes. Earlier bikes use the kill switch to ground the coil primary, killing spark. On a KLR, the kill switch normally lives in the "closed" position, so current can flow TO to the coil primary winding. Hitting OFF on the KLR kill switch opens the circuit, preventing the CDI from sending current to the coil and thus killing the spark. Ass backwards. If you remove the kill switch, you need to jumper the wires where it connected. "

The wires for the kill switch and Ign. Switch are the black/ylw and the white/blk; It never occured to me to jump the wires together to complete the circuit because the base manual shows both of the switches as "normally open", that is, the coil is killed when you close the circuit by grounding the White/blk to the black/ ylw. So you say that this is ass-backwards from a normal bike? I'll have to try this... :p

I do have a pulse from the CDI.

New CDI, Pulse Coil, Ignition coil, and a new high-powered stator too, because I want to run some bad-ass lights on the front of this thing.

It would make sense that a switch, either the ignition switch or kill switch could be bad, as it did start once, but then wouldn't restart.

My money is on the kill switch. I'll keep everyone posted, and thanks to all who responded. Sorry I've been so long in getting back to you all, as I've just moved, and that has taken some time. (Was finally able to buy my family a house) :thumbsup: Thanks again... :lame:

Mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×