Stage 2 hotcam

Have just put the stage 2 cam in my pig.

Bike has an aftermarket muffler,uncorked,sidepanel cut out,high flow airfilter and an icat,jetting was 70s 3rd on the needle and 180 is now with the cam 70s fourth and 185 i may go up to 187.5 or 190.

I led the crank with the cam by 4 degrees(ish) to keep some bottom and mid as i have the stock headers on the bike still.

The bike pulls stronger longer and harder in each gear am geared at 14/46 but it runs out of gears too quick i will change to 15/46.

The bike has incredible "snap" on the throttle now it feels much lighter now because it is monoing all over the place and i tend to arrive at direction changes a bit fast sort of overcooking it and going silly.

Won't be able to answer any posts for a while as am going away to work for 3 weeks but this was and is my most cost effective gain to the bike i think i will go 280mm front disc for safety .

Just got back from working away.

Going for my first ride in about 6weeks,will probably be a bit gumbified but don't care.

Going to keep developing this bike a bit more.,

Stage 2 cam that is.

Steny how's it going matey.

Where are the dyno charts????

Hawk i don't have access to that sort of stuff anymore,i live too far from humanity.

Will keep the main at 185 as it was really good today as it was about 10 degrees hotter than my first test ride and it will be summer here soon.

It definitely needs a better carby,the stocker is crud.

The Dunlop D 952 front is heaps better than the IRC VE 35 i had on it,i use the IRC's when i need a tyre to last but the IRC VE 35 was crap.

I am going to put an USD front on this bike probably an OHLINS as i can get a SET OF 46MM mx USD's for the right money.

I will have to gear this thing up to 15/46 as it now runs out too early.

Overall i really like the stage 2 this is what it should of been like from Honda.

Am buying an 07 KTM 250 sx or 450 sxf on Tuesday so Piggy will be on hold for a while.

I hear ya. Sometimes dyno time just isn't practical. I mean, what are you suppose to do--not make performance mods because the nearest bike dyno is X hours away? That doesn't seem to make sense. So, I hear ya.

Nonetheless, there are some "backyard" substitutes to actual dyno testing. Timed runs under tightly controled conditions might be the best option. I'm thinking along the lines of 4th gear WOT timed runs between two markers. Pavement is best so traction variables are at the minimum. Every possible effort made to ensure consistancy (air temps, engine temps, fuel, gearing, tire diameter, etc.) between runs can be important. As mods are performed, differences in HP will show up on the stopwatch. We might not determine exactly where in the RPM range power might be gained or lost, but we'll know how much "more" performance was gained overall....

I'm just a stickler for testing, I guess. I love hearing about cam upgrades, exhaust changes, and all the rest. It's just that without some sort of hard evidence that identifies the gains, ride reports have only a fraction of the meaning they'd have (for me) if they were accompanied with data.

All that aside, thanks for sharing. I've been kicking around the idea of going with a cam myself...

Congrats on the KTM decision. I rode a KTM 250SX for a day out at the dunes last season and freakin' loved it!

I know this ain't scientific Hawk but she got more everywhere except right off the bottom but i don't think it lost any off the bottom.

Also i think a better carby would give her a bit more from the lower mid up to the top.

How you going Wesk. Interested to know what you do about the carb. I live in Brisbane. I asked around for an edlebrock at a few of the local bike shops and they said "whats that". Dont you need better valve springs with the stage 2 cam?

I left the stockers in it Fordy,if it screws up i'll let you know.Actually the engine is quieter than when stock i think the auto decomp was the cause of a few whines and rattles.

Mikuni might be the go here in the land of OZ the importers are a bike wreckers in Sydney, can't think of their name at the mo i will pm you when i remember.

Got it, if we both buy one we might get a good price i'll ring 'em now.

There's 2 problems i have with the stock carb. The bog off idle and the flooding when dropped. I know the edlebrock is supposed to address both of these problems but i'm not sure about the mikini still flooding when dropped. Would be interested to know the $AUS price.

The guy at Show and go said $649(about $470 US) each for the 2 don't know if that is good or bad but he is the importer so i spose it's the go Fordy.

Is that for a pumper mikini or a flat slider. I think the pumper will idle when lying down but the flat slide will still flood. I could be wrong but thats my understanding after reading on here for a while. Also i think they come in 42mm and bigger?[for modified engines]

The Mikuni, flat slide TM-40 pumper, will still flood on it's side as will any standard carb with a float and bowl. I'm not sure how the Edlebrock gets around this issue.

I use the Mikuni on my 650R, it works well. However, I've experimented with quieter exhaust systems and they always kill the throttle response. The Pig has big lungs and needs to breathe, so it responds well to a free flowing exhaust. My point is the carb isn't the only variable in throttle response.

If I had to buy a new carb, I would try the Edlebrock just because I've never tried one. However, I would have no problems buying another Mikuni.

The carb is called a tm40 it is a pumper carb and it has all the stuff with it to fit it to an xr650r.

Hawk i didn't buy the 250sx i bought a brand new 06 crf450 for the right money a damn fun toy it is too.

The guy at Show and go said $649(about $470 US) each for the 2 don't know if that is good or bad but he is the importer so i spose it's the go Fordy.

Tahts about what you expect to pay in the US about 500 for the pumper version of the Mikuni, Keihin FCR or a little less for the Edelbrock. Id do a Mikuni or Keihin FRC41 for the best absolute power...

Ok so now i know that the Mikini TM 40 flat slider is actually pumper carb. I was a bit mixed up thinking they were 2 different carbies. Thanks for the info Wesk but i"ll have to stick with the stocker for now as the bank accounts a bit low but i appreciate the interest. :thumbsup:

Just got back from workin' away again,swapped out the 70s for a 70 at 1 3/4 turns out and it has really cleaned up the bottom to lower mid,the snap this thing has now is wicked.It's way hotter here now than when i put the stage 2 in it.

I want to adjust the valves so i may as well chuck in a high comp piston while i'm at it,the big headers will have to wait.

Whats up Wesk?

i also have the stage 2 (stock springs), full T4 exhaust, stock carb, 68 (not sure of the other nor the needle position), no cuts in the air box, 15/47... what i felt was that I have more power on the low revs. For instance if before the stage 2 i had to drop into 2nd in a heavy sand wash now i could cruise it in 3rd.

A couple of weeks ago i had the head ported. I still don't get used to that. Now i can rev the engine higher and the bike keeps pulling is as if the gears are now longer but i loose that power in the low revs, is faster though. Perhaps i need to play with the needles and the needle position.

Can you explain what you men in the first post with "led the cam" how do i do that? also how do you like that I cat?

iestrada, g'day mate.

I think you will have to go up on your pilot a bit and definitely do the sidepanel mod.

Your porting means you may have to chase a jetting set up.

There are a few sites that help with jetting and stuff i think this will work. this guy knows his stuff.

Leading the crank with the cam by a few degrees the power will come on sooner and not be all top end sorta thing.Works for me.

Hope this helps.

I like the ikat even though i have no hard evidence other than seat of the pants feedback,definitely starts easier though.

Just got it back from the shop that sponsors my engine work.

Decked the head 8.2 thou which brung the comp up to 10.8 to 1.

Match ported the head and shaved 3ounces (85 grams)from the fly.

We also took the stock headlight and blinkers for rego and a few things too which totalled 5.5 pounds(2.5 kg),we put a CRFx headlight back on it which weighed about a pound.So net weight loss was over 4 pounds(2kg).

So i now have a bike that weighed 136kg or about 299lbs new is now at least 10kg lighter(22lbs) and goes really hard.Weighs 277(126kg) or so now.

Definitely needs aftermarket headers and pumper carb though as it's a bit flat up top,might be it needs more fuel .

It's all good.

Have put on a bicycle type speedo,weighs about 2 ounces.This bike is registered but not quite road legal IYKWIM.

Had my seat cut down more tapered at the top,the bike feels thinner across the seat now.responds better to leg and but input.

Have found an FCR carb from a YZF426 not sure what year,it has a TPS so i'll work it out. The KYB forks from the 426 are available as well so if the money is right.

I have some fork braces coming from the states so either way the front will be better.

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