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Is there any good way on taking the fork seals off with out the special tool ?

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You don't need a tool to remove them.

And you can tap them back in with a hammer and a small punch, just take your time, don't force them, and make sure everything goes back in straight and seats flat. And watch the edge of the tool so to keep any damage from occuring.

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You can make a seal driver out of a 7" piece of 1 3/4 PVC. Just cut it in half long ways and bevel the edge so it doesnt hit the edge of the seal. Then you can just clamp it on with a hose clamp or a Vice and drive your seal in.

The drift punch method works too...

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thx.. another question is that i am trying to take off the rebound nut is it supposed to be super hard to take off ?

Do i need a vice clamp ?

is there a easy way to loosen the rebound nut ?

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thx.. another question is that i am trying to take off the rebound nut is it supposed to be super hard to take off ?

Do i need a vice clamp ?

is there a easy way to loosen the rebound nut ?

Depends on the fork.

On the earlier KYBs the rebound "nut" is the cap, so you can just use a wrench and a rubber mallet to break it free while it's in the clamp. Very easy. If not, you're doing something wrong. Obviously, you will want to lower the fork within the clamp to get the wrench on and of course, make sure that the top clamp is left loose.

On the later KYBs and Showa forks, the rebound "nut" is the base bolt.

If you're thinking about something else, or need clarification, you may want to post a photo or some details just to make sure we are talking about the same thing.

And if you're on a KTM, you're asking the wrong guy.

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Its a crf250r

i dont see how i did anything wrong

I took off the fork cap drained the oil tightened cap again and flipped the fork and tried to unscrew the rebound nut but it was just to tight.

sorry for all the questions this is my first time and only 16 with a limited amount of tools.

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http://www.mx-tech.com/downloads/2312_valve_installation.pdf

The "rebound bolt" is around $80.00, don't ask how I know, and rounds off fairly easy when using a socket with much of lead-in taper. You REALLY need to grind the lead-in taper of a six-point socket down so it fits securely on the rebound bolt. I vise is an absolute must for werkin on forks...of course that also means a set of soft jaws...getting the tools together to werk on this stuff ain't exactly cheap!

Home Depot has a set of soft jaws fairly cheap...

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Thanks guys..

My friend has a vice at his house so i took my forks over and it worked perfect the rebound nut came off easy!

I got done rebuilding the forks today pretty easy !

But i went to go reset the rebound settings in one of the forks so i screwed in all the way but it didnt stop it just keeps clickin and screwin in ?

Is it because the dampner isnt connected to the rebound mechanism?

Another thing is that when i pulled the dampner fully out it would autmatically go back in like 4 inches and stop so maybe its not fully extended ?

I think its broken somehow which isnt alowing the dampner to stay fully extended.

What do u guys think ?

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Thanks guys..

My friend has a vice at his house so i took my forks over and it worked perfect the rebound nut came off easy!

I got done rebuilding the forks today pretty easy !

But i went to go reset the rebound settings in one of the forks so i screwed in all the way but it didnt stop it just keeps clickin and screwin in ?

Is it because the dampner isnt connected to the rebound mechanism?

Another thing is that when i pulled the dampner fully out it would autmatically go back in like 4 inches and stop so maybe its not fully extended ?

I think its broken somehow which isnt alowing the dampner to stay fully extended.

What do u guys think ?

You need to make sure that the d-shaped adj. fits into the d-shaped rod.

Another thing is to make sure that the jam nut is screwed up the dampaning rod before installation of the reb adjuster.

The cartridge was not bled correctly and you have air trapped within the cart.

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You need to make sure that the d-shaped adj. fits into the d-shaped rod.

Another thing is to make sure that the jam nut is screwed up the dampaning rod before installation of the reb adjuster.

The cartridge was not bled correctly and you have air trapped within the cart.

How do u bleed the cartridge ?

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How do u bleed the cartridge ?

Put the cartridge in the vise with the rod down. Fill with fluid till it's above the shoulder in the tank. Stroke the rod and add oil as needed. Once the air is bled out fill the cartridge to 10mm above the shoulder and slowly insert the comp assembly. It will be fairly hard to get in the last 3/4" or so. You should hear a farting noise as the floating piston moves and purges air and the assembly should go in all the way. Tighten hand tight and then with the cartridge over a drain pan and with the hole in the tank down stroke the rod full stroke. The excess oil will be forced out thru the holes in the tank.

When done correctly the rod should feel like it is spring loaded. It should come allmost all the way out after being compressed. If it lacks 15mm or so that is fine.

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I did it ! No special Tools! Spent only 40 dollars to rebuild my forks myself !

You guys are life savers !

Thanks !

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