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Beauty mate looks very nice. I am jealous.

I am still learning to deal with my summer hiatus. Never believed I would have to park my bike in August.

The 3X3 won't affect the water in the intake that much really. The airbox opening is the same height as stock. The snorkel wil help seperate the water from the intake charge, but if you are that deep I suspect you won't be going that fast.

I submarined mine (water over the seat) after I did the 3X3 and it pulled itself out. Another foot or 2 and it would have been another story though. Would have been either way I think.

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Thanks guys, it was a truly great day of riding.

I know you do alot of water crossing, have you done the 3x3 mod?

I have not done the 3x3 mod, and don't intend to. I'll take every advantage I can get, to help keep water out of the motor, considering the conditions I ride in around here.

whoops.jpg

The trails are so wet, rocky and technical in these parts, that more power is pretty much redundant. My buddy is an expert rider, with a highly modified 50 hp WR400. He has no advantage over me on my stock DRZ, on the trails we ride.

A tall bike, with low gearing, good tires, and improved water-proofing are the best mods to have in this area. There are many trails we ride that would be better suited to a trials bike, than a dualsport or enduro bike.

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I have not done the 3x3 mod, and don't intend to. I'll take every advantage I can get, to help keep water out of the motor, considering the conditions I ride in around here.

I wonder if anyone has ever sealed up their airbox and run a true snorkle up high somehow (like you see on some of the 4x4 mud bog runners)?

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I wonder if anyone has ever sealed up their airbox and run a true snorkle up high somehow (like you see on some of the 4x4 mud bog runners)?

Funny you should mention it, because the thought has crossed my mind many times. But I think it really would be too restrictive. Maybe not.

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There's a two-fold approach to deep water crossings...

Keep the momentum up and keep moving if you can, because the bike cleaves the water and the carb and air box stay relatively dry.

BUT...

You really need to know the water you are crossing to do this with confidence. If the water just gets deeper and deeper, it'll be a losing proposition.

If you go in and it looks worse than you thought, kill the motor right away so you don't hydraulock the thing. Having to pull the plug and drain the motor, is a lot better than a broken connecting rod.

In the photo you see above, I basically f_cked up. I should have checked the depth of the water, before I entered. And if I had gone another two feet, all you'd see in that photo would have been the top of my mirror.

Fortunately, only the carb float bowl filled with water. None entered the motor, and the oil showed no signs of contamination, when I changed it. But it was a claose call for sure.

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