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MCCT: how many turns out?

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I've just bought a DRZ400E '05, at the moment only 400 Km on it, and following the wisdom of the Community I went through the good old story:

Break in "Ride it like you stole it"

early oil change

White Brothers skidplate

Unabiker guards

TT side cases

Rounded sharp edges of shifter level

Countershaft sprocket nut

Now it's the MCCT turn.

I want to follow the Burned method, then ACCT pull put, MCCT installation, engine stopped, adjuster bolt and o-ring back out.

Then I break in the adjusting bolt until I feel a little tension. The tension became absolutely evident after 1/2 turn more. I understand the good starting point is the first feeling of tension.

The question is: after starting the engine, and keeping at idle until warm, how many turns I may expect to back out the adjusting bolt until I hear the chain rattle?

From a search in the data base, I could find only a couple of posts where someone reported a 2 or 3 full turns out, before hearing the rattle.

Since it seems to me that I'm a little paranoid (actually I didn't know that...) I would like to have a confirmation on that.

With no more than 1/2 turn out after the initial tension on the adjusting bolt I hear a little ticking, If I dare go further, up to 2 turns, I hear a clear and loud "slapping".

I did it only once, I was quite anxious not to seize the brand new engine.......

It is also confirmed that a sign of the rattling chain is also an evident vibration in the adjusting bolt?

N.B: My first post from Italy in a GREAT FORUM, you guys created something really special

:thumbsup::ride::applause::applause::applause:

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The rattle will be very apparent...the rattle will slowly fade as you tighten the adjuster bolt. This may take a couple of tries until you learn the sound...you need to also add the primary nut to your list as well as the started clutch bolts, which you can do at the same time.

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Ok, I understand that I'm not yet used enough to all the noises coming from the engine, but when installing the MCCT, and starting from the first feel of tension on the adjusting nut, it is reasonable to back it out for 2 or 3 turns?

Or 2-3 turns are waayyyyy too much, and I'm on the edge of destroy everything? :thumbsup:

My bike is new, only 400 km, therefore the chain should be new as well, and competely unstretched, if that could matter.

At least on an average basis, how many turns did you have to back out your MCCT?

I'm not interested in the exact number of turns or half turns, every bike is different; it would be sufficient to be sure I'm not spoiling the engine just turning out too much the adjusting MCCT bolt, during the experimentation at idle.

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Go out til it rattles and then you need to go back in just until it quiets down.

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Thanks 10guy,

but do I risk anything turning out the adjusting bolt for 3 turns, from the starting position (first feeling of tension on the bolt)?

I don't want to spoil my engine.

Is there a reasonable limits of turns out I do not have to exceed, to avoid excessive slack in the cam chain?

I understand that too much tension on the cam chain is very bad, but I guess excessive slack is always dangerous, also during the first tune-up of the MCCT.

I'm a complete newbie, I have to develop a lot of experience on these mechanical subjects.........

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It does not matter how many turns out, just screw out until it rattles, and back in till it stops, end of story.

There is no set number of turns, it depends on how far in you screwed it to start with, every body has a different feel for the first tension or pressure they notice.

It really is that simple, everybody complicates it by over thinking (understandably).

Provided you only screw it out till it rattles you will have no problem.

I fitted mine to a cold engine, better to do it with the engine warm, that way

you do not need to wait for the engine to warm up before setting it.

Neil.

:thumbsup::ride::applause:

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Turn it in until you feel tension....at this point you will have little tension on the chain compared to the ACCT. Start the bike and then back it out using your fingers until you hear the chain rattle. Once you hear the chain rattling tighten up just to the point that the rattle goes away. The fading of the rattle will be gradual so you will have to become familiar with the sound. Take your time, don't get in a hurry, and you'll have it set before you know it. :thumbsup:

This is one of those things where you spend three days fretting about it and five minutes setting it,then you step back and say Sh*t...that was easy! :ride:

Recheck/adjust when you check your valves.... :applause:

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Thanks 10guy,

but do I risk anything turning out the adjusting bolt for 3 turns, from the starting position (first feeling of tension on the bolt)?

I don't want to spoil my engine.

Is there a reasonable limits of turns out I do not have to exceed, to avoid excessive slack in the cam chain?

I understand that too much tension on the cam chain is very bad, but I guess excessive slack is always dangerous, also during the first tune-up of the MCCT.

I'm a complete newbie, I have to develop a lot of experience on these mechanical subjects.........

No risk on 3 turns as long as it is only idling

Your engine will be rattling so bad that even your neighbors will know you've gone too far so in reality it would be really hard to back it out too far.

It's not a tough thing to do, but for some reason people really have a hard time relaxing and just doing it.

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10guy,

What's the story behind only removing the ACCT when the engine is on TDC?

Thx,

Noppy

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10guy,

What's the story behind only removing the ACCT when the engine is on TDC?

Thx,

Noppy

I shall now pretend to be 10guy :applause:

If you take it apart on TDC on compression there will be no tendency for the pressure from the valve springs to try and rotate the engine, and make the timing chain slip.

Neil. :thumbsup::ride::applause:

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ok, ok, now I think I learnt the lesson: to be relaxed, a deep breath, don't be in a hurry, take all the time necessary for the adjustments.

It's more a state of mind than mechanical knowledge :thumbsup:

thanks to all of you for the great support

:ride::applause::applause::applause::applause::applause:

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I shall now pretend to be 10guy :thumbsup:

Are you uglier than 10guy or only smarter

:ride:

What are the chances of slipping one tooth?

If it will happen, will it only happen when you fire up the engine for the first time?

Cheers,

Nop

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Are you uglier than 10guy or only smarter

:applause:

What are the chances of slipping one tooth?

If it will happen, will it only happen when you fire up the engine for the first time?

Cheers,

Nop

Don't know, never seen 10guy, or a pic of him, but as this is not the first reference to how good looking I am you have made, I am starting to worry about you :applause:

The chances of it slipping are remote I think.

But it will happen as you remove the tensioner, and the engine them rotates under valve spring power.

Actually that is not a good description, as the chain gets slack, if there is a valve compressed, it will try and rotate the cam.

Neil. :thumbsup::ride::applause:

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I fitted mine to a cold engine, better to do it with the engine warm, that way

you do not need to wait for the engine to warm up before setting it.

Neil.

I set mine with a cold motor because the rattle seems more noticeable. Does that mean my MCCT is not set right? :applause::thumbsup::ride:

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Don't know, never seen 10guy, or a pic of him, but as this is not the first reference to how good looking I am you have made, I am starting to worry about you :applause:

The chances of it slipping are remote I think.

But it will happen as you remove the tensioner, and the engine them rotates under valve spring power.

Actually that is not a good description, as the chain gets slack, if there is a valve compressed, it will try and rotate the cam.

Neil. :thumbsup::ride::applause:

So to summarize, it is NOT a good idea to start the engine and it is better to haul the bike on my trailer to the shop? I already removed the ACCT but put it back for the time being...

I want to wait until the APE arrives anyway and mount the new chain, mesure the lobes and change the timing of the cams. I will mount a kick starter while I am busy and check the primary nut, all in one go

:applause:

Noppy

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So to summarize, it is NOT a good idea to start the engine and it is better to haul the bike on my trailer to the shop? I already removed the ACCT but put it back for the time being...

I want to wait until the APE arrives anyway and mount the new chain, mesure the lobes and change the timing of the cams. I will mount a kick starter while I am busy and check the primary nut, all in one go

:ride:

Noppy

Just check the timing if your worried, they chances of it having moved is pretty remote I think.

Neil. :thumbsup::applause::applause:

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I set mine with a cold motor because the rattle seems more noticeable. Does that mean my MCCT is not set right? :applause::ride::applause:

If it sounds right it is right.

I find that the rattle is more pronounced whenwarm, and so did the final tweak when warm.

Neil.

:thumbsup::applause::applause:

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