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Questions re my 3x3 and Rejet work

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Hello guys,

I finally got around to doing my 3x3 airbox mod, dynojet kit installation, etc. over the weekend.

I had a heckuva time finding instructions (the links to the DRZ info. page are bad) and being impatient I just dove in and did it. Now that it's done and the bike seems to be running nicely (and better I might add) I still have some questions.... So here goes...

Starting point:

2004 DRZ400S (CA model), DOT knobbies, 14 tooth CS, White Bros. Skid plate, Acerbis brush guards, CFC case guards, Clarke 3.9 tank, Corbin seat.

Airbox mod: pulled upper rubber snorkel, removed air filter element, stuffed airbox with rags to catch droppings and cut a 3" x 3" hole using the space vacated by the snorkel as a starting point. Used a small hand held keyhole saw, very simple. Filed the edges down smooth to remove burrs. This did *not* require relocation of the "black box" which is suspended above this area on it's factory mounting posts. Is this okay as is?

Carb work: Removed seat and fuel tank, disconnected throttle cables, hoses and the electrical wire running to a solenoid on the carb (I didn't realize I had one!) and removed the carb. Took a little doing until I realized I could aggressively compress the "bellows" between the airbox and the carb. After removing the cap I didn't realize at first a simple tug on the "stopper" assembly with a needlenose pliers would easily remove the needle. I put in the Dynojet needle, dynojet E clip (4th notch, instructions matched the picture) and used the big Dynojet springs (they said it was optional and the same as stock). It was unclear to me how much to remove from the stock needle, so I re-used everything except the stock needle and clip. Assembly order from the point of the needle I used was medium metal washer, white plastic spacer, Dynojet E clip, thin metal washer, small spring then the "stopper" assembly. Does it sound like I did this properly??? I wasn't sure if I should reuse the white plastic spacer and wasn't sure about the precise placement of the medium metal washer as it fell off when the assembly came out. I tried to use the FSM to fill in the gaps...

Float bowl: I used a good screw driver (bit filled the head nicely) and the stock screws came right out (no drilling). I used the FSM to make sure which jets were which and replaced the 142.5 main with a 140 and the 22.5 idle jet with the 25. I used a small wrench to secure the brass base underneath the main jet while tightening with a screwdriver from above. Used the Kientech allen head screws to re-attach the float bowl.

Idle Mixture screw: Drilled out the brass plug, removed the stock assembly and replaced it with the Kientech thumbscrew needle. Again, no instructions but basically I removed everything possible from the stock assembly and put it all on the Kientech needle. Is that correct?

Backed it out 3 turns and the engine fired right up and idled nicely.

Took a 50 mile test ride bike seems to be great.

I would appreciate knowing if I got the detailed assembly correct, especially the airbox size, the dynojet needle assembly and the Kientech idle mixture adjustment knob assembly.

Thanks,

Jim in Santa Barbara

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Sounds like its all back together OK. I had to use a 145 Main Jet. So you may want to keep an eye on it running lean. Also, the DJ spring is supposed to be different but my jet kit had the same think, a replacement spring that was optional. I used it.

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Sounds like its all back together OK. I had to use a 145 Main Jet. So you may want to keep an eye on it running lean. Also, the DJ spring is supposed to be different but my jet kit had the same think, a replacement spring that was optional. I used it.

I believe the DJ spring is "lighter" which is supposed to improve throttle response.

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The big spring really needs to be replaced as part of the installation. It is the smaller needle spring that is supplied as an extra.

Cheers

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right about the springs. I got mine mixed up at one point so I used a deep socket as a weight to measure the amount of sag produced on the 2 springs. One was a lot lighter than the other (like 2cm more sag with the weight on it).

Your assembly sounds perfect. All washers and shims are right. You may need to make fine adjustments to your fuel screw to get it perfect. If you have any stumbling with sharp throttle opennings check your float height (13mm-dont want to give you instructions in case they are wrong but I measured from the gasket surface of the carb to the highest point on the float, mine was off 1.5mm).

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