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ticki-ticki-ticki sound

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hey all,

so i bolted up my top end, put on a mcct, filled fluids, and fired it up. it turned over in no time, but it's pretty clanky sounding and although it will rev up, it doesn't want to hold idle.

any idears? when the marker is a T on the crankshaft is there only one way the cams can go on? when i was last adjusting i thought there was 2 positions the cams could be in when the marker was at T. one for actual compression stroke TDC and one for when it reaches TDC on the exhaust stroke??? did i bung it up when i installed the cams and put them in on the wrong T?

please help my ticki ticki...wiki wiki!

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Head gasket leak???

J/K I saw your previous thread on the gasket :thumbsup:

Until you put the cams in there is no difference between TDC on the intake stroke or the exhaust stroke.

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what cams?

yoshi

very funny 10guy, har har har :thumbsup: but what you say of the cams makes sense since i know it still fires off a spark on the exaust stroke.

i think i put the cams in right, i've done it plenty of times before when i was going through my re-shimming kibble white mess.

the only real thing new is the mcct, and i wonder if maybe i set it too tight or something? i followed the instructions, but it felt tight to me. should there be any deflection on the little bit of chain between the two cams?

thx!

droo

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there should be a little deflection.

double check your cam timing.

also,do the MCCT adjustment with the motor at idle.

okay, cool, and for cam timing all i need to do is make sure everything is in the right place at TDC correct? there are no other issues to consider right?

mcct at idle makes sense, i'll lossen it a bit when i have the vavle cover open and if i can get it to idle, adjust it then.

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no no,you do it valve cover on.make sure the adjuster has plenty of tension on it.start the motor and let it idle.turn the adjuster out till you hear the chain rattle.then go back in just till the rattle goes away.

as far as cam timing

with the T mark lined up in the hole,the 1 on the ex cam should be level with the front surface of the head.the @ on the ex cam should be straight up.the 3 on the in cam should be straight up.there should be 15 pins between the 2 and the 3.

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no no,you do it valve cover on.make sure the adjuster has plenty of tension on it.start the motor and let it idle.turn the adjuster out till you hear the chain rattle.then go back in just till the rattle goes away.

as far as cam timing

with the T mark lined up in the hole,the 1 on the ex cam should be level with the front surface of the head.the @ on the ex cam should be straight up.the 3 on the in cam should be straight up.there should be 15 pins between the 2 and the 3.

right and right, yeah i didn't mean run it with the valve cover off :ride: i just meant that i'd loosen it a tad will i was checking the cams. :thumbsup:

the cam stuff is what i was doing so i'll dbl check my work. i have the manual, and like i said i did this like 10 times when trying to get throught those crappy kibble whites...but who knows maybe the late nights and gas fumes got to me and i did it wrong.

thx, i'll let you know how it works out.

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a little follow up, cam timing was off, they were 15 teeth apart, but both one tooth of.

the clackity sound is gone, but now i'm having trouble holding idle. i half suspect my petcock as the problem. when i took the tank off to do this work the S model petcock just kept pouring out and would not stop. i finally clamped the hose and forgot about it. now it's still flowing out but slower. the bike will start and idle smoothly then suddenly stop. i wonder if it's slowly filling up the carb then starting, then idling, then pooping out of gas? (although i say that with no evidence really, the clear fuel filter i have looks as though it stays filled.)

i think it may be time to switch to an E petcock and finally do away with the vacuum line..which is attached btw.

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the clackity sound is gone

Glad to hear it, but did you discover what was causing it.

If the valve timing was out it would not cause any noise, unless the

valves where hitting something, like the piston :ride:

Have you re-checked the valve clearance, and were they OK, i.e. same

as you originally set them, not looser ???

Or was it just a loose timing chain.

Neil. :thumbsup::applause::applause:

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the valves will touch the piston when the cam timing off.they just touch slightly.makes a racket,but doesnt bend the valves unless the timing is way off or the motor is run hard that way.

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Glad to hear it, but did you discover what was causing it.

If the valve timing was out it would not cause any noise, unless the

valves where hitting something, like the piston :ride:

Have you re-checked the valve clearance, and were they OK, i.e. same

as you originally set them, not looser ???

Or was it just a loose timing chain.

Neil. :thumbsup::applause::applause:

hmm good point. i did not recheck clearances. but i guess i should :applause: i'm pretty sure the timing chain was not loose. i thought maybe it was pre-detonating or something. it didn't sound clackity like a loose camchain, i wouldn't rule out the valves slapping something, but i hope not i just got those f'ckers :applause:

maybe i'll say f'it get a new head gasket and start over and make sure everything is okay.

eddie, as for pulling fuel through the vacuum should i just pop of the hose during idle and see if it's wet? i assume something is wrong with the petcock if will not shut off.

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the valves will touch the piston when the cam timing off.they just touch slightly.makes a racket,but doesnt bend the valves unless the timing is way off or the motor is run hard that way.

cool, yeah ran it like 2 or 3 times for about 3 seconds each with a peak rev of maybe 4k, so i hardly think that qualifies as "ran hard"

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hmm good point. i did not recheck clearances. but i guess i should

i wouldn't rule out the valves slapping something, but i hope not i just got those f'ckers :applause:

I hope you have not bent the valves as well, if it is now running OK, you

are probably fine.

Yes I would check the valve clearance, if it is all as it was, it is almost certain the valves are fine.

I wonder if it is possible to check the valve seal in situ :ride:

Maybe by tipping the bike up on end, and filling the inlet and then exhaust

port up with a liquid, making sure the valves in question are shut :applause:

Neil. :thumbsup::applause::applause:

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Maybe by tipping the bike up on end, and filling the inlet and then exhaust

port up with a liquid, making sure the valves in question are shut :thumbsup:

ha ha ha ha ha ha, you are one crazy mofo!

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ha ha ha ha ha ha, you are one crazy mofo!

use your compression tester's hose to pressurize the chamber at tdc compression and listen in intake and ex for leakage.-"leakdown test"

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